Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

[TurboTapin]

For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point.

I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?

[Murray_Calavera]

Sounds like the perfect excuse to buy a quickjack. 

[GTSBoy]

I just stack 2 pieces of 200x50 timber on top of each other. Total length about 900mm, with the top one being a little shorter and both having a 45° angle cut on them to make the front edge a bit of a ramp. Put these in front of each front wheel, drive up on them, throw the trolley jack under. Takes 1 minute.

Scissor jacks can eat a bowl of dicks. I never use on under my car unless desperate.

[joshuaho96]

16 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point.

I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?

Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.

[blind_elk]

I find that a single 50mm plank is sufficient to raise the car to get a low profile trolley jack under the engine cross member or rear diff. Then I use a 50mm block on the trolley lift point.

[Milkmun]

Agreed, wooden ramps can’t go wrong. Or buy low profile ramps ie. gktech 

[Duncan]

Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car

It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough

If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car

Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I

This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile

[MBS206]

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car

It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough

If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car

Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I

This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile

For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!

 

My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough.

The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs!

Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!