Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can anyone recommend some budget friendly but decent tyres, rears around 245 - 255 (could go slightly bigger) for use on hill climbs. track only car

Needs to be grippy, 99% of the time in the dry so can afford shit wet weather tyres.

noise who cares

wear not to important either

track in generally slightly dusty

Track only car doing hillclimbs? Definately not Rs3s. I'd go soft Z221 Hankooks. Haven't run them myself but Neil has tried Federal Softs, Avon soft slicks and the z221 softs and rates the hankooks best.

Just ordered a set of rs3 in 255/40/17.

Hopefully they will be better than the ku36 235 and 255 I have ran for a year.

didnt rate the Ku36? had them on my evo, not making big power. didnt mind them. bit noisey for a road car

yer i have other tyres for other stuff. now yer looking for some for the hill climbs.

car isnt for the road lol

How much are the proper Hankook semis? Just drop a skid off the line to warm the rears up.

About 450 a tyre.

Oh and depending on size the rs3 is on back order for 8 weeks

Don't know what size he needs, but they are very cheap semis at $420 for 235/45/17.

By far the best bang for buck mod if you are trying to drive up a hill fast on cold tyres.

didnt rate the Ku36? had them on my evo, not making big power. didnt mind them. bit noisey for a road car

They were good initially but after 15000km and 7-8 track days they was a lot of understeer and rears would just spin coming onto boost in 2nd. Car is a sil80 with 300+kW rb25.

They were good initially but after 15000km and 7-8 track days they was a lot of understeer and rears would just spin coming onto boost in 2nd. Car is a sil80 with 300+kW rb25.

15000+7 track days sounds pretty darn good to me, I wouldn't have thought you'd get much more out from any sticky tyres..?

Dunlop Sport Maxx RT (in 235/45/18 and 245/45/18)

Dry : 7/10
Wet : ?/10
Value for $ : 8/10

Just bought these for both the Stagea and the Leaf, excellent value for a performance road tyre at $210ea fitted. haven't tried them in the wet or on a track yet but so far they have been very grippy for a road tyre, a bit noisy of course

i've been trying to scourer the net for information on grip vs width vs cost. Hope someone here can help.

R-s3 are $200 for 235/45r17 vs $250 for 245/40r17

Is it worth the extra $200 for the 4?

It seems the 225/45r17 have gotten more expensive while the 235 have gotten cheaper in the last 6 months. weird.

i've been trying to scourer the net for information on grip vs width vs cost. Hope someone here can help.

R-s3 are $200 for 235/45r17 vs $250 for 245/40r17

Is it worth the extra $200 for the 4?

It seems the 225/45r17 have gotten more expensive while the 235 have gotten cheaper in the last 6 months. weird.

I probably wouldn't pay 25% more for that little increase in width.

The other consideration is wheel size, if you're on skinny rims like me (7.5") apparently you'll start losing some handling sharpness to bulging when going up in tyre width.

I run 235/45ZR17 KU36's on the street and 225/45ZR17 R888R's on the track, same 7.5" rims. I can't really say there's a massive difference in handling but they get driven very differently...

  • Like 1

Went for a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 3's , due to Hankook Rs3 causing my tyres/steering to track all over the place even with several wheel alignments .

Road noise is very quiet with no steering problems at all . 275-35-18

Dry : 9/10

Wet : 9/10

Value ? expensive

  • 4 weeks later...

Went for a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 3's , due to Hankook Rs3 causing my tyres/steering to track all over the place even with several wheel alignments .

Road noise is very quiet with no steering problems at all . 275-35-18

Dry : 9/10

Wet : 9/10

Value ? expensive

Your Michelin pilot sport 3, where are they made?

There's actually a $100 cashback sale on Michelin Tyres at the moment until end of this month. I called up a tyre shop and got some pretty good prices for 235/45/17 Pilot Sport 3 Tyres @ $159 each fitted & balanced (even before the $100 cashback). However I found out they are made in Thailand. If they were made in Germany or France I would have booked in an appointment immediately.

Does anyone else have concerns about which country your tyres are made?

Pirelli P1 Cinturato (245/45R19)

Had them for a few months now. Daily driven. Awesome tyres, grippy as even when you try to make them slip in the rain.

Dry: 9/10

Wet: 9/10

Value: $250 each from Bob-Jane Fitted...7/10

Old tyres:
Nexen N6000

Came with car with decent tread on them. Super crap. No grip in wet. Noisy and quick wearing.

Dry: 5/10

Wet: -5/10

Value: Not sure..didn't buy

Edited by shubby0901

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...