Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i found out some info today u guys might like to know. i went to QLD transport today and asked the guys in the compliance office about brake upgrades. he said that fiiting the brakes from a R34 gtt would require a mod plate, but u can fit the brakes from a 260RS (brembos) with no need 4 a mod plate as long as they r from the same year model stagea (but im thinking as long as the part numbers r the same on gtr brembos as stagea, it wont matter). so u guys that have done the gtt upgrade may want to check, as u could have voided ur insurance!! whats that gonna cost ya!!

good info

I've found that simply using stainless steel braided brake lines front and rear has improved the braking 100fold.

That and front slotted DBA rotors off the shelf, with new stnd Bendix pads.

very very very very good and sufficient braking right there ^ at bugger all cost and heartache

definately a "performance" upgrade in my opinion. all you have to do is provide your insurance broker a list of all your mods and its all good (I use Shannons).

just asked my local nissan dealer regarding s2 stagea brakes

jap codes as follows

Front AY040-NS098

Rear AYO60-NS029

he said he was going to try and find out more about them and how to get them in will let you know how i go

Hi having my pads rebonded should have them back this week will let all know how it goes and price ! Running modified navara 01 3.0 turbo diesel pads at moment till i get my pads back ! have been running these pads for 10 months without a problem and have been brutal on them at times . will inform on my other pads asap !

good info

I've found that simply using stainless steel braided brake lines front and rear has improved the braking 100fold.

That and front slotted DBA rotors off the shelf, with new stnd Bendix pads.

very very very very good and sufficient braking right there ^ at bugger all cost and heartache

definately a "performance" upgrade in my opinion. all you have to do is provide your insurance broker a list of all your mods and its all good (I use Shannons).

where did u get the braided lines from?? did u ask 4 stagea 1s or do u have to ask 4 something else that still fits stagea (example: ask 4 skyline R33 gtst or something)

AlexCim went to Maltech and got them custom made - they now do them for Stagea's. He had an accident, I bought his brake parts so thats where these came from. Contact Maltech in VIC and get prices; not expensive & good value IMO.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

I've been watching this topic with some interest.

But don't believe I've seen a definitive answer yet for a series 2 stagea on brake rotors

and pads that can bolt straight on like original equipment no machining OD down 5-6mm etc....

I would like to just walk into a bursons, repco, autobahn..etc..... buy rotors, pads go home bolt

them on and be back on the road in 2hrs.

Am I dreamin??

Pete :rofl:

Hi All,

I've been watching this topic with some interest.

But don't believe I've seen a definitive answer yet for a series 2 stagea on brake rotors

and pads that can bolt straight on like original equipment no machining OD down 5-6mm etc....

I would like to just walk into a bursons, repco, autobahn..etc..... buy rotors, pads go home bolt

them on and be back on the road in 2hrs.

Am I dreamin??

Pete :ph34r:

G`day dreamer ???,i have been chasing pad`s since dec 06 no luck,unless you pay top $ for gen part`s i think it was $228 for front pad`s.so at the moment it`s rebond`s,i have tryed to find old set of pad`s no luck ???? i am chasing a importer hear in perth for pad`s.had some luck with serivce kit`s for auto`s so hope he will come up with PAD`S,i will talk to him next week good kuck Pete,chuckie.

I'd be interested to hear how you get on Chuckie.

My searches thus far have only been web based, just information gathering on possible sources, part numbers etc....

Will hit the phones/workshops soon with queries and post any info i get.

Pete

G`day dreamer ???,i have been chasing pad`s since dec 06 no luck,unless you pay top $ for gen part`s i think it was $228 for front pad`s.so at the moment it`s rebond`s,i have tryed to find old set of pad`s no luck ???? i am chasing a importer hear in perth for pad`s.had some luck with serivce kit`s for auto`s so hope he will come up with PAD`S,i will talk to him next week good kuck Pete,chuckie.
I'd be interested to hear how you get on Chuckie.

My searches thus far have only been web based, just information gathering on possible sources, part numbers etc....

Will hit the phones/workshops soon with queries and post any info i get.

Pete

hey guys you could always try the compliance shops for stock type pads .i have a full set here as spares thet i got off darrin spencer pads rotors calipers front and rears so i should be sweet for a while .

https://www.rhdjapan.com/home/products/prod...product_id=3910 give them your VIN number when you order, and they will make sure you get the right ones, 187$ per end delivered in 7 days is pretty fkn good for endless SSS, sponsors sell them for 240+

-Ryan

Hi There,

Thanks for the feedback.

Just found this link, not sure if anyone has seen/mentioned it before.

Looking at the picture they look fairly similar to whats on my car,

will have a better look tomorrow morning.

The Z33 is real popular i seem them everywhere, same listing/same pad?

Maybe check out the stock at the shops for Z33 pads as a possibility.

Fingers crossed this leads to an option.. :glare:

Pete

http://www.fujibrake.co.jp/pads/fblpad_e.php?fblno=AFP385S

Hi There,

Here's a link for the rear pads,

Pete

http://www.fujibrake.co.jp/pads/fblpad_e.php?fblno=AFP265S

Hi There,

Thanks for the feedback.

Just found this link, not sure if anyone has seen/mentioned it before.

Looking at the picture they look fairly similar to whats on my car,

will have a better look tomorrow morning.

The Z33 is real popular i seem them everywhere, same listing/same pad?

Maybe check out the stock at the shops for Z33 pads as a possibility.

Fingers crossed this leads to an option.. :glare:

Pete

http://www.fujibrake.co.jp/pads/fblpad_e.php?fblno=AFP385S

awesome work on the part numbers listings have been looking for something like this for ages.

i reckon the mods or anyone else who knows how to, need to put this in the sticky section under the parts listings etc.?

good work there NEO

cheers oxford

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...