Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

are all you guys only changing rotors and keeping your stag calipers

my car cam factory with the 280mm front rotors and some small rotor in the rear with a crap single spot maxima style calliper

when i did my brake upgrade i changed the whole lot rotor and calliper

you brake mounting points would be the same as most of your uprights and so on would be very similar

now ive also completed a 5 stud conversion and have used RS4 Stagea front hubs and R33 gtst rear hubs the R33 gtst rotors and callipers all round the rotor has no problem fitting in the standard dust backing plate from memory mine are still on the car

if your going to change rotor you must change calliper and 1 one of the quesions are the GTSt calliper that good YES and they ARE 4 spot

'33 gtst front caliper is 4 spot? cool :D pity I just had 6mm machined off my '33 rotors :huh:

Edited by DaveB

yeah 33 gtst fronts are 4 pot over 296mm rotors. same as the 32 gtr fronts. both fit fine on the front of a S1 stagea. I ran them for a while before swapping to the g4 8 piston setup.

and speaking of which I have another set of 32 gtr fronts for sale - calipers, discs and pads $500 pick up in sydney.

ok so unless im missing something here nobody has actually come to an exact answer on what to upgrade the front callipers and discs for a series 2 RSV (RWD) not RS4 (AWD)

from what im reading im not sure if the 33 calliper and rotor has been tryed or not or if people are just putting callipers over there stock discs.

please remeber i am talking about a RSV not an RS4 series 2 front brakes.

i keep reading all the posts and i keep getting confused if people are talking about front, rear, series 1 or 2 or what they HAVE tried or what they are THINKING of trying. and then people start talking about N15 pulsars. there is just to much conflicting information.

just trying to get a straight answer otherwise im going to have to go to a wreckers with my car and pay some cash just to get the answers for myself.

ok so i decided to go and get a R33 callper and disc from the local wrecker. well it is true that these DO NOT FIT straight onto a series 2 RSV. as it has been said the offset is different and when u fit the new calliper and disc on u trash ur disc cause it rubs. i really dont know why nobody else has done this but all i did was space the calliper off the mounting hub by using a 2mm thick washer and i was done. however this created a new problem as the calliper now rubbed on the back of my rim. i had some 5mm wheel spacers that i was intending to use anyway to get the front and back wheels alligned better and hey presto i have clearence everywhere. i havent driven the car like this to test everything as i grabbed on calliper and a stuffed disc but i will get onto it next week and let u know how it goes.

post-44842-1219464342_thumb.jpgpost-44842-1219464798_thumb.jpg

did you fit the GTS-t discs as well,or just the callipers? if you used both,they DO fit on,as will pretty much any other 4 pot offering from late model skylines.

I'm running R34 GTT front brakes with two piece rotors up front,and R32 GTR discs and callipers on the rear of my S2 RS4. 2wd or rwd,the knuckles are the same,so brakes bolt on.

Justin...

I'm wanting to change my pads and I've read through this thread and im not sure what to get does anyone know for sure what the front and rear pads are for series1 97 stagea is

should be able to find plenty of discussion on b/pads,it's all here somewhere, just checking my old pads ( still kept in the new box's) front bendix 1398 rear bendix 1144 (advance).

well i have no idea why everything fits on RS4's but everybody that has tried to upgrade there front brakes on an RSV have come across the same problem with the outside face of the disc rubbing on the calliper. all i did was space the calliper away from the mounting position so that the disc ran in the centre of the calliper. pretty simple really. now all i need to do is get some braided skyline brake lines and the other calliper and a set of discs. then onto the back which wont be a problem.

well i have no idea why everything fits on RS4's but everybody that has tried to upgrade there front brakes on an RSV have come across the same problem with the outside face of the disc rubbing on the calliper. all i did was space the calliper away from the mounting position so that the disc ran in the centre of the calliper. pretty simple really. now all i need to do is get some braided skyline brake lines and the other calliper and a set of discs. then onto the back which wont be a problem.

Yeah the rubbing is an issue on RS-Four's too.

the only sure fire way i can sugest is to replace the complete front hub assembly. that is of course if the suspension geometry is the same as the skylines. if u change the hub, backing plate at the same time as u do the rotors and callipers it has to fit as it did on the original car. im still going to use my theory of spacing the calliper away form the mounting plate by what i reckon needs to be about 2mm and then running a wheel spacer so that my calliper and rim dont hit.

Woohoo! new rotors and pads arrived from japan today. Fitted them up in an hour, no problems at all! Gotta love direct replacement parts.

Theyre WGC(N)34 RB25DET specific slotted rotors from dixcel japan. Bought off yahoo auctions if anyone is interested.

Where and how much are people getting S1 pads from? I've got the rears for $60 a set from Repco on special but I can only find the fronts at Bursons for $80. Is this a good price or can they be found for less money?

Cheers, Greg.

  • 2 weeks later...

why not use r32 gtr fronts? cheap 4 piston conversion that bolts straight up.

I've got a set of calipers, good dba rotors and 50% used pads for $700.

I had these on my stagea before I upgraded to the g4 8 piston caliper on 330mm discs.

Where and how much are people getting S1 pads from? I've got the rears for $60 a set from Repco on special but I can only find the fronts at Bursons for $80. Is this a good price or can they be found for less money?

Cheers, Greg.

hey guys.

im having some difficulties in finding some pads and rotors for my stag.

no one seems to have them.

what are ppl using on their S1 RS4's?

cheers.

Hey JVP,

they no longer make 1398's which is what the fronts were for Stagea's, so unless there is old stock floating around (checked and there isn't much) you will struggle to find them.

But i have since found an alternative for them whilst looking for FelixTRX and have one set instock :(

If your still struggling to find some shoot me a PM :P

  • 2 months later...

Hmm, I'm going to have to go through this thread to see how hard it is to get R32GT-R/R33GTSt brakes under my car - i have a set that I'm sure I can purchase pretty cheaply. I'll probably get the calipers front and rear, and get bigger discs and better pads.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...