BlackLine33

Has anyone replaced their indicator surround? Mine has gotten discoloured prob due to moisture. Looks like there's a few clips that hold it in place. Or is it a waste of time and I should replace the whole tailight?

Got the blow torch and heated it up well. Smashed it with a hammer to loosen it then managed to get it out with pliers and a vice grip.

I'll try a blow torch and pry bar next. What do you mean by shock it off?

Tried the Dremel but might’ve made it worse and cutting more than i should. Not sure what it's going to take to get it off. Trying to soak it in vinegar if that will even do anything.

What Dremel model would you use?

Changing the old coilovers in the Skyline for brand new ones. Front driver was rusted on at the bottom where the 17mm nut is. I used a ball joint splitter on it which got the coilover out but it's left the inner metal ring with the rubber on it. I've used Wd40 Penetrant, shock treatment with a hammer, and heated it up with a heat gun but it won't budge. Any suggestions? Have a couple of pics attached for reference. Cheers

I've heard coilovers are a bit on the stiff side? I don't really want to be bumping around especially on Sydney streets. Are coilovers legal for the R33? Thanks for the recommendation but it appears they're in VIC? Anyone to recommend in Sydney?

Hi all, I'm after recommendations on a Street suspension set up for an R33. From what I can see the Bilstein B6 shocks are good but need some decent springs to go with it - and it appears King Springs don't sell any that suit the R33 anymore. Whiteline sway bars seem to be a popular mod as well to eliminate the body roll. Would I be able to achieve a lower than stock ride height using the Bilsteins? At the moment the car is sitting at 63cm from ground to the centre of the wheel arch on some old Apexi shocks. Thanks in advance

Hi all, The black paint on my r33 has been peeling. Can anyone please recommend a reputable paint shop in Sydney where I could get a respray. I'm not keen on doing a backyard job to fix it up. As a side note, roughly how much percentage value do you reckon the car would lose due to peeling paint such as this? Cheers

Hi all, Does anyone have a factory r33 gtst exhaust system they wouldn't mind parting with? Need it to clear a defect.

Thanks for the tips, I'll see how I go. I hope they can still get an accurate reading as my tacho currently reads over 9000.

Hi All, Can anyone point me in the right direction to an exhaust shop in Sydney that will have an exhaust system available for compliance with the EPA regulations for an R33 Gtst? I recently got an EPA notice saying that my exhaust is too loud and I need to have the sound checked to comply with 90db at 4800rpm and ensure it meets emission requirements. I currently know I have a turbo back Xforce exhaust system but it looks like it may not have a catalytic converter due to the previous owner. Perhaps a factory r33 exhaust system will do as I'm not wanting to spend exorbitant amounts if I can.

Hi JDM33R do you happen to remember the wheels this skyline had? Like ROTA Grids? Red wheel nuts? Can't really see through the photo. Only asking because my skyline which looks very similar to this got stolen. Luckily it was recovered a couple of days ago with damaged ignition barrel and some scratches.

Not too sure how this turned into a flaming thread.. Didn't ask for anyone's opinion on the coil packs I bought. Anyway I got a working afm and it has seemed to fix the problem. Thanks to the guys who provided feedback about my problem.

The reason I went with YJs is for the post sale support. Heard the splitfire manufacturer is a bitch to deal with.

Also, just as a precaution I checked the coil packs and plugs. I found one of the coil packs didn't have a spring in it as seen through the hole which sits on the plug. I thought this was the problem. Spark plugs didn't look to have any abnormal wear. So I bought brand new YJs but issue still persists.

Yep 8psi as seen on an aftermarket boost gauge. I've since had to remove it due to it being a defect but when I had it on it did read 8 at WOT. Prior to the issue the car was running fine and it read 8 psi. Just happened suddenly. I remember first time I experienced it.. I was at a red light and gave it a decent launch and the car got all herky jerky on me. Didn't know what it was but I cleaned the afm with CRC but didn't resolve the issue. It has since gotten worse over time. I don't remember doing anything major prior to the start of the problem.

Thanks for clarifying iruvyouskyrine. Will report back after I've tested it.

Thanks for the responses. Last time I cleaned the AFM I had a look at the soldering on the joints and it seemed fine. Maybe the actual measuring element is playing up. Will be trying another AFM. Is the R34 AFM interchangable with the S2 ECR33? The part number for the S2 ECR33 AFM is 22680-31U05 and the website says it is compatible with R34 as well (http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-maf-mass-air-flow.html). However I'm looking to buy an AFM with the part number 22680-31U00 since it is cheaper..I'm thinking this is the R34 GTT one. Can anyone confirm before I hit the buy button?

Hi guys, Have done some research on SAU and online but haven't come up with a definitive answer yet. Car details: bog stock except turbo back exhaust, aftermarket bov, turbosmart boost tee @ 8 psi, brand new yellow jackets, Milliseconds after hitting boost it feels like I've hit a brick wall (like foot is off the accelerator when it physically isn't). I'll try to accelerate again but instead it's an intermittent violent herky jerky motion as if I'm repeatedly on and off the accelerator. If I attempt to smoothly apply throttle without boost it may pick up again. Sometimes I will come to a stop and car will stall. While car is decelerating I can see the boost guage fluctuate according to the pressure I'm applying to the accelerator. Though not as pronounced, the engine sometimes will also cut out intermittently after a warm start on idle and stall...doesn't happen on a cold start. The other night also had trouble starting the engine from warm. It would crank fine but would only fire for a second then stall. Tried starting repeatedly and got it to idle fine after about half an hour of attempting. Thought it could've been coilpacks so I got brand new ones along with plugs and dropped them in but same issue. I've recently cleaned the AAC valve and AFM in the past month. I've read that it could be the cam/crank angle sensor? Possible timing issue - RnR? Fuel cutting? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

No worries mate just checked and it is $400 delivered. Must've been some error on my part. Just made a purchase. Thanks!

Australia 2200

In need of a fresh 6 pack! Just put my order in EDIT: My order on yellowjackets.com.au comes to a total of $380 for the coil packs + $40 shipping. Am I meant to buy from the 1st page link to receive the $400 delivered offer?

Hi guys, Been driving my 33 for a while now and it has been faultless. However the other week I was cruising at 60 and it felt like the engine power had dramatically decreased..almost cut off. I tried to push down the accelerator harder but the revs were struggling to increase and the car was in a jerky motion. I pulled over to the side and the idle was fluctuating from say 200, where the car would almost die, to 1200 rpm. After a few mins the care felt okay to drive again, but not 100%. Since then, if I don't use boost then the car will drive okay. Once I hit boost hard (1st gear pulls) and while im still in boost, it sounds like the turbo is whistling but the car isn't accelerating much. Then after this short spurt of boost the car will feel sluggish, jerky, and very minimal engine response from the accelerator. The car will end up regaining some power after a couple of minutes but not fully. Prior to this happening I had an aftermarket bov which I had to change back to factory. I thought it could be the issue so I changed it back to the aftermarket one but the car still acts the same. Fuel pump is a wallbro 255 and is fine...still primes when turning the ignition to ON. I'm still thinking it's some kind of fuel related issue. Maybe turbo has had it? Care to shed some light guys? Thanks for the help. EDIT: i have yellowjackets with the standard plugs that rb25dets use.. replaced the plugs only 2000kms ago

White R34 "GTR-R34" on King Georges Sunday night going like 100km/h...