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Steve85

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Everything posted by Steve85

  1. Still loving this game. Have recently gotten into the "Rivals" section. I'm attempting to be in the top couple of hundred for each track. Also love taking photos!
  2. I agree with this, if you wanted a specific modification, take a look at how it has been installed and the quality of the workmanship. Think about how that might affect the car and if you would do it this way. Ask someone who knows what the particular modification has been performed for and check with them to see if it is a positive or negative change to the car. You may not want a particular modification, but if it has been performed to a high quality or can be reversed this should be considered when you are purchasing a car. It's up to you though in the end. If you like it and thinks it's good then it's ok, otherwise, maybe you want a different car.
  3. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1995/SSE-AD-4577525/?Cr=1 Potentially ok, needs an in depth chat about the kms and the "history". It will need work, but the seller has indicated that. On the face of it probably not a good GTR for a first time owner. (IMO) https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1997/SSE-AD-3945941/?Cr=10 This car looks legit, seems to be owned by someone who knows about GTRs and would expect to get what they are asking for the car. If you have this much money, this would be a good start. Of course, as with all cars, have it inspected, but from what I can see this looks like a legitimate sale with no tricks/nonsense being pulled. Worth your time to investigate. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-4151343/?Cr=12 I contacted this person a long time ago, I couldn't confirm the kms (they have no paperwork) and the car was interstate so I passed. It has been climbing in price for around 12-18 months. This could be ok, I would suggest you would need to see this one in person. This car is not good value (IMO) when compared to the car above. But as always, it's what you want and what you are willing to pay. There may be nothing wrong with this at all, its time on the market may be the thing that is stopping it from being sold at this point. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/franklin/cars-vans-utes/r33-skyline/1140467265 This earns a solid "No". It isn't a GTR and doesn't look wonderful. If you want a GTR, please don't worry about any GTS-t models. Also I think we talked in PM. Most cars you want to buy aren't technically up for sale. Generally you pop up a Wanted to buy. Word gets around behind the scenes and then, sure enough, someone who has a car tucked away in shed says, "yeah, I think it's time to move it on", gets in touch with you, and you agree to buy a car that is in excellent condition and wasn't really for sale until you asked around and for a price that you and the seller both like. (<Sometimes anyways).
  4. You need a friend who is good with electronics. Most of my cars have needed their remotes rebuilt. As long as the chips on your remote are ok, you should be fine. Have someone who knows electronics look at the keyfob. Most of the time the switches wear out and break. Do you know if the remote is actually working when you press the button (is there an LED?). This is where i would start.
  5. This is very true, each series has their positives and negatives. If you want an R33, you should buy an R33. Don't worry about other peoples opinion on them and whether the R32 or R34 is better. Just buy what you like best (assuming your budget meets the market). Your comments above are a little bit ahead of themselves, I would personally concentrate on finding out what to look for in a GTR and what each car comes with as they are all modified. You need to be able to pick a good modification from a poor one. You also need to be able to know the signs of a dodgy car, off the top of my head you need to be able to recognise; Which model the car is (and what it should have, for example the differences between a non V-Spec and a real V-Spec). Interior wear that doesn't match the kms shown. Common areas for rust and how to spot it in it's early stages. Changeover gauge clusters / signs of wind-back. Potential body repairs. Modifications / aftermarket changes. Once you have landed yourself a decent example (this is specific to you, your perfect car will be different to everyone else's), then concentrate on if you want to modify it once it's yours. These cars can be expensive to run depending on what you want from them. One other thing you should check out this website for details on the VINs of each car: http://gtr-registry.com/en-bcnr33-vin-table.php
  6. Welcome to SAU, Glad to hear someone else likes R33s. There is a whole bunch of stuff you need to be careful of when buying one of these things. Hit up the search function to get started, as there is heaps already written on this site, but if you can't find enough info, please feel free to PM me. I just got one a while back after a year long search. I'd be happy to give you some help if you need. Good luck!
  7. Can't wait to see what happens with your car. It looks awesome.
  8. There sure is: Pop your build progress into a thread here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/ I am looking forward to seeing more of your cars!
  9. That engine cover... mmmmmm.
  10. Haha. I think this is the goal of most Skyline people. Of course, it's rare that anyone manages it for a long period of time!!! Keep us up to date with your trouble free motoring.
  11. I think Just Car are no more. I think most of their customers ended up with Shannons or Famous Insurance. http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/ Try these guys, otherwise, google might be your friend for your request.
  12. This things is awesome. I can't wait to see what you do with it.
  13. I can tell you that you can get insurance for second hand imports. I am currently with Shannons who have been quite good so far. My car is fully covered though, so I can't comment too much on only having 3rd party. Even the RACV were willing to cover a standard Skyline here in Melbourne, so you might just need to run the details through each of the online quote generators.
  14. It's a RacePace system. They build them in house and they are spec'd to each car as required. Mine is a full stainless 3.5" system. It uses a high flow cat, tuned length headers and V-Band connectors. You can have them with standard headers and welds, but, I figured if it was getting done, I'd go all out.
  15. Wow! Well you have some skills taking photos! Kudos!
  16. Hi all, Real quick one as I know this is the most used thread in the Vic section. Does anyone know of a Silver R33 GTR on black 18" rims that has been stolen? I work in Mulgrave opposite the BMW headquarters and a Silver R33 just pulled up exactly where mine was almost stolen from and performed a launch in an otherwise odd location. The paranoid part of me is suggesting it's the same shithead who tried to take mine. Maybe i'm going overboard and its just someones car being tuned. Does anyone know of this car?
  17. Car revs to 8k. I left that to Chris and the guys at Racepace to set.
  18. Damn it! Well, i proved my own point, i guess. I don't know what intercooler I have, guess i will have something to look at tonight. Edit: ok, having acheived peak stupid today, i'm going to log off and go have a nap.
  19. My car has a HPI Aluminium Radiator. It did the job on a super hot tack day (38 degrees). I can't comment too much, but it seems to do the job. You should probably value the opinions of the others over me though... they've been around a while longer than me.
  20. Wait 4.9s? That's going the wrong way for my preference. That must be insane... Mine tops out at about 240-260 at the moment (i can't be sure), it was doing it pretty easy at a track day (til it broke, thanks igniter!) I do have a switch for high boost, but low boost seems mental enough for the moment.
  21. I don't really use my car's potential on the road, but between the tires and brakes, it doesn't stop as well as my normal cars. Other people may have a different experience, but I can say that my car requires, a bit of a warm up match the engine. Of course, it's going to depend on your driving style, but on the road, i take it nice and easy. Good luck with your selection. Edit: I should add, the car doesn't get driven in a "spirited fashion" which may be the cause of my terrible braking. Other people might drive it differently which may mean the tires work much better. Maybe grab a second opinion on these tires...
  22. It's not that I don't think it will, i just don't require that much power. I haven't really had a chance to open the car up to it's' maximum potential so it just seemed like a no brainer to turn it down for now. If i decide later on that it needs more go, i can always have it turned back up. For me, it's fast enough for the moment, so my theory here is that less power should mean less stress on components. My right foot is little bit scared of the power. The other thing worth noting is the diff gearing has been shortened (4.375 ratios), so the car really moves. I can drive it around in 5th no problem and still have enough torque to pull from 50kph. In summary; it seemed fast enough.
  23. I've got these on my car. From what limited driving i have done these are incredible useful once warm. Not great for commuting, but on the track they gripped harder than I was willing to push the car. I don't hear too much road noise from them either. While i have no comparison for you, I would recommend these based on my own experience.
  24. I really like the colour. Not sooo keen on the matching interior but. Hey you do what you want though. Would love to see what you do to this thing. Also for 8k well played, the temptation to part it out must be playing on your mind.
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