Steve85

Harsh... some people (maybe we're odd) value the 33 above both the 32 and 34. Sure prices show that we are the vast minority, but some of us are out there...

Are you in Melbourne somewhere? I might be interested in working out what I think it's worth, but on the face of it 16k seems out of reach (imo).

Hi and welcome. Cool car, love your work. That's pretty good power on an unopened engine. Are you doing the work yourself? Those doors... hmmm they're a talking point. I'm sure plenty here will voice their opinions. Welcome aboard.

^^^ Mature... pssshhhh. Haha. I have the mental age of a child!!! Haha that's why I'm always broke and forever playing video games! Wife, kid, house and job, I don't know where they came from!

My car tops out around the 250kph mark. It was doing this speed about three quarters of the way down the sandown straights. I believe I have a standard GTR box (at least the box ratios).

They did this sort of thing for me... after Galvsport had checked it. You can never be too cautious.

In my car (and my opinion of course) the diffs are way too short. It's one of the reasons I had the power reduced, the car just sprints too fast for my mind to keep up. I'm actually budgeting to have them changed to a lower ratio. The problem is, it's expensive (I will have to pay someone) and I barely drive the car. If I were in your position knowing what i know, I would stick with the 3.89. It seems like it would be ok, and if you've just worked your engine, i'm sure the car will pull fine.

What are you aiming for in terms of the car/diffs? Are you looking to have a car that can sprint, or are you looking for relaxed driving on the freeway and slightly better fuel economy? One way to overcome long gears it to add more power (which brings its own challenges). My car has 4.375s in front and rear diffs and it makes 550hp atw. This makes it super fast in a straight line, but has resulted in it pulling around 3100 ish RPM at 100-110 (I can't be exact because the change in ratio isn't known to the speedo). It also means I am generally one gear higher than other cars on the track everywhere (until I run out of gears). If you have a car with more power than standard you should be ok, i would assume. If it were me, I would dyno the car to find out what power you make at 110kph and then you can decide for yourself if it is the right mix of cruising vs pickup.

I've sworn off Need for Speed after too many time getting my hopes up only to have them completely shatter by the gameplay/physics. Did anyone ever try "The Run" probably the worst physics I've ever seen in a car game (at least a big budget game). This video was the one that got me super excited and the game delivered none of what appeared be promised... (bear in mind 2010). Edit: My favourite part is at 1.31, you can hear the Koenigsegg pedalling the throttle to correct a slide (headphones up loud). If they had made this game as good as this trailer i'd still be playing it.

Haha, it's your opinion that matters. It's great that you've found the car you love. Good for you, hope you keep on loving it! Keep us up to date on it!

Good luck. Will be following a build thread if you create it!

I think this has come up before. You can either apply some pressure to the head to pull it out while unscrewing. Usually a flat blade screwdriver of equivalent pulling back ever so slightly. Or you can drill them out. You might want to search this topic as I'm sure it's been done before.

I have a cheap, second hand exhaust system that came off my car if you interested, let me know and I'll try to find some pictures.

That looks much better. You said you didn't have too much trouble with drive-ability before. Can you feel the difference on the road?

Cool. According to the ad (pictured above) they have been in contact with the SAU Vic people. I'm hoping to meet up as many as I can (finally).

Hi all, I'm interested to know if anyone else is thinking of attending the Tuned car meet later this month.

As someone in Melbourne with a Skyline, I can tell you they get a lot of attention from thieves, cops and car lovers. If you're at Monash Clayton, I'd be super careful about where you leave it. But, don't let bad thoughts stop you from buying the car you love. Just make sure it has an immobiliser and you'll be fine. Good luck.

Links are fine in my iPhone.

I think you will find that you need to break open the headlight. Gut them, then replace with LED and controller circuitry. This allows you to create whatever pattern/colour you want.

I have these and mine are on the softest setting possible always. It's ok for track but awful on the road.

Doh! Well mine got covered in cow shit on the way home so... yeah. Now I'm forced to wash it!

I'm going to win at this rate. Maybe throw this request up to Facebook? ^

Haha! Just after some more parts cars in the world!

Some quick googling suggests you are correct, my bad. I should clarify the race driver only gave me instruction on tire pressures and when to make changes. All that other stuff about suspension is me...

I'm no expert (I feel like I write that for every post), but my understanding is the more camber you run the more your brake locking will be a knife-edge. It's harder to control the braking force with more camber (as less contact patch in a straight line). Toe in at the front will help the car turn in, but once it has moved it will try to slide the front end. Toe out will make the car harder to initiate the turn in. but be less likely to understeer once turned in. Toe in at the rear will also provide a more stable platform and the car will be more inclined to understeer. Given you have heaps of understeer already, having less than you asked for this is probably a good thing. Swaybars will provide you with more or less grip at each end. So if you would like less understeer you can tighten the rear swaybar or soften the front sway bar or a combination of the two. In my very limited experience, changing your tire pressures up or down actually does produce a sizable difference. I was under the impression that starting the tires around the high 20s was ideal and work from there. The instructions i was given (from a professional race car driver) was to make changes up and down keeping in mind that the tires may be hotter on the track and may increase in pressure when at temperature. So: I would, change the toe in at the rear of the car to zero (leaving the front as is), I'd also pump the tires up to approx 28psi all round then try them out again. Of course, it's not really possible to judge without seat time and it's also about your driving style so feel free to ignore. *Also same professional driver told me, one change per session. Except where you get it wrong, change it back to its original position then make one other change, then repeat.