niZmO_Man

GKTech

Nistune. Uses standard ECU, but has programmable board in it. This means everything will run as per usual. If you decide to go all out, I hear Haltech is pretty good. Speak to Willal Racing anyway.

Penrite Premium 0?

You da cray. I'm taking my LMGT1s to my grave lol.

Buy one with a straight chassis (look underneath), minimal rust and good interior. Ignore kms as it would be wound back. Engine/gearbox will be getting tired by then. $15k for a decent one + spare money for rebuild/replacement. Mine has crushed jack points, some rough paint and dings/dents thanks to retards in car parks. If I didn't check underneath (didn't really care as long as it was straight), it would have sold. A legit 50k km car will, by then, easily cost $25k+ and will be hard to find. You'll probably have to look at AUDM ones with more than double the price tag. People want immac GT-R's for $15k. What do you expect from a 20 year old Japanese supercar which has been imported and changed hands a few times?

Hahahahaha

Not to be discouraging, but if you're asking for step by step instructions, you're going to have a bit of a rough time. See if you can find a service manual (think there might be one floating around on the Internet).

Shame you're in VIC

Go hard or go home!

Why did you start another thread? Your previous thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/427726-18in-varrostoens-on-32gtr/ Exact same question. Also, you're running mismatched tyres. I guess you have your ATTESSA disabled.

10kg/mm springs would be shocking on the public roads. Unless you live in an area with smooth roads. Jump onto the Otomoto website and have a look at their range. HSD HR (what they usually sell) will be fine. 8kg/7kg (f/r) is plenty stiff. If you want less roll, install bigger anti-roll bars on your car. You can also order alternative spring rates.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/380988-nsw-tein-suspension-3-catback-exhaust/#entry6568159

Should put that on google review.

$500. I'm old and it's too harsh for Sydney roads. It's an old spring height adjustable only

I had Advan Sport V105 on the back of my R31 in 225/45/17 (before changing wheels). They were old and I got them for $100, but they had heaps of tread and were excellent. Never slipped up once.

Yeah it's so damn annoying . Funnily enough, I replaced my 02 sensors with new ones, no difference to steering! Hahaha. It's definitely electrical. I'm thinking grounding/voltage issue causing solenoid to go spastic. The 4WD relay in the boot clicks as well, lights dim (big current draw). Fricken R32s. With the HICAS computer plugged in, it's horrible to drive.

Yeah, don't bother with a 'HID kit'. Get OEM headlights or retrofit HID projectors into your housings. You can get D2R bulbs from powerbulb (genuine Philips or Osram). http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/philips-xenon-hid-d2r-85122-single

Ziex are shithouse. Azenis are good (FK452 are great in the dry/wet). I had old ST115 on my BNR34 wheels, they were good despite being made in 2006.

I got some TEINs for cheap

Reminds me of the maroon R32 with the clutch through the bonnet.

It's frak.

Tempe tyres lol. I'm starting to form the opinion that FK452>KU31 lol. The Falken's were cheaper as well.

Bit of a tangent, but has anyone experienced the steering wheel "kicking"? As in, the R32 goes from light to heavy steering above a certain speed. Obviously it's malfunctioning and 'kicking in' when I drive around town (annoying and dangerous). My car always has this issue. Disconnecting the smaller plug from HICAS computer only lessens the frequency of the 'kick'.

Nope. Try them out and let us know how you go.

Does your Stagea have factory HID headlights?