Dose Pipe Sutututu

@Lithium very informative, might look into the kebabtech software when I next decide I want to drive it and see if it exists, high chance it might not exist as I find with kebabtech they only code in functions/features based on demand. It was only recently they've finalised DBW cruise control, however I don't know of anyone that has successfully implemented it on their car. VW lyfe has changed me... still haven't even put the car on the dyno to tune it - you can see/tell the cbf factor is high now and I'm right at the end of the tunnel too, well close to it as I can clearly see the light but there's no interest.

There's no mention of Stage 2 clutch in the article

Interesting, is that similar to how anti-phasing works? I hear that terminology thrown around a bit however given we aren't in race cars or F1 cars I've never bothered to read further nor investigate further. 4x port was already going into another level for me haha...

Haha, well this is how it can turn our with Spool Billet gears (version 1, apparently version 2 fixed the issue). I'm back on a new N1 pump with v2.0 of the gears, so far still have oil pressure and clean oil.

Is setting up rolling anti-lag one of the fiddly things?

A bit of a thread bump, so we all know I sell brake pads, rotors, etc. on the side and yes I sneakily do it here on SAU to help members and always get cheeky comments from @niZmO_Man to be a forum sponsor but I prefer to give SAU members a better price than pay for the fee and charge members more Anyway, generally I don't recommend track pads for street use due to the fact you need a bit of heat in them before they actually work. In the past, I would never recommend Intima Type-D pads for street use because when I ran them on my track/street car I found them extremely terrible in cold conditions, to some what nearly dangerous! However, moving forward a couple of years, Intima have released a new compound called (you've guessed it) Type-D v2.0! Knowing the guys at Intima, they gave me a set to test out (I'm Asian so love free shit). The pads still physically look the same, however with the new compound the new heat range means you can run them when they're cold being now 0 to 850 degrees Celsius. As you all know, my car has been off the road for sometime and since I've got it running, it hasn't seen any form of track work/mountain drive work, etc. except a skid pan at SMSP, this meant I never got to stretch its legs out nor put the brakes/power to the test our the new pads. BUT...... just last Saturday, a couple of other SAU members and myself decided to go through Putty Road, all the way to Singleton. To my surprise, these pads actually stop when cold, there's no need to heat up the pads/rotors, as advertised they actually stop from cold! Albeit, not as good as the Intima SRs when cold., but they actually work! Once warmed up, and we picked up our pace I was pleasantly surprised the brakes carry through with their well known progressive feel, i.e. progressive pedal effort instead of instant throw you into the dashboard stopping power (which is not good, as you're prone to locking). Experienced Zero brake fade the entire cruise to Singleton and back and the once there was a little heat on the pads/rotors the braking was very predictable and very progressive. From my experience, I am confident these will be great on the track (whenever I decide to take my car out again), for now it's parked in the backyard on the C-TEK. Disclaimer: Sponsored Pads, running 350Z Brembo calipers and Nankang AR-1 255/40/18 all around

Maybe have a normal non-obnoxious exhaust system? Then have a straight pipe to bolt up on the track or drag strip. I hate cars that are loud for no reason, especially under powered clapped out shit boxes. Gives the rest of the community of car enthusiasts a bad name.

What's a stage 2 clutch?

I wouldn't rely on a single intake fuel pump on a S13 to be supplying fuel on the track. You'll get into surge issues. Just leave the current setup and box it up like you've mentioned earlier.

Twin scroll, divided rear housing, modern turbo, VCT all help If I wanted wham bam, thank you maam I could put on a 0.83 and shit would light up tyres. I'm using a Gen V 50mm Turbosmart EWG, using both port going to a 4x port MAC solenoid controlled by the Kebabtech.

Yeah I did notice, I was too busy changing playlists on Spotify and couldn't' wave back fast enough Hope you're better man, get a HSP you'll be tits.

Not at all, I was in tunnel vision mode lol... This is why I like following people, I tend to be a bit more sensible and take in the scenery

That's why people run boosted engines, to get twice the atmospheric pressure

My back is still pretty sore though, running stiff suspension, a fixed bucket seat with zero give, semi slicks still is hard to offset the adrenaline rush and GATE I think having GATE makes the drive more enjoyable. Disclaimer: We all did the speed limit because we are responsible adults.

You'll be silly to discount a Nistune when it has flex capabilities out of the box, not to mention the option of running a single R35 MAF instead of 2x MAFs, etc. as there's a check box to for you to select from. Look, if you were given the PowerFC for free then sure why not.. but if you had to go buy something within budget, a PowerFC is silly.

Well it's there to use right? lol.

I also run a GTX3576R Gen 2 but with a 1.01 divided rear. Sometimes I think maybe the 0.83 divided rear might have been a bit better. However I do like the linear power delivery and also I'm a bit power hungry so 430 to 450kW is achievable once I decide to get a new clutch and a better FMIC. On 3rd when I stomp on it, I'll see all the boost by 4300rpm. By 4000rpm it's making 1 bar of boost already.

Skip the GTX3076 Gen 2 and go GTX3576 Gen 2. I'm not a fan of the GTX3076R, there's too much compressor for turbine.

LC video to see if the gearbox is still tight

0.5 bar and will run up to 2 bar. At the moment trying to command 1.3 to 1.4bar is very challenging. Every 1% to 2% change in duty cycle is jumping 0.1 to 0.3 bar of boost. By dropping the spring you end up with higher resolution. Just some idiosyncrasies with running a 4 port. Running a 3 port but across both ports on the gate is a simpler solution which allows decent control too, but I wanted to try out a 4 port setup, so here I am lol.

Umm no idea to be honest, I said I'll try go once a month with @PLYNX but knowing my life, even that would be hard to achieve. And here's a dose video and some gate, wallah swear to god I didn't use the photo illegally (didn't talk or text or use social media) lol

Man my back is sore lol. A fixed bucket seat, semis, several solid suspension arms, rock hard suspension but yeah ended up doing over 450km today. 1.5 tanks of fuel later ? Good drive with @PLYNX and my mate in his R33. Okay, admittedly it was pretty fun and first time I've actually stretched the new setup with a lousy tune. Shoots flames, 11:1 afrs, lazy 10 to 12 degrees of timing but it is wanting to light up 255 Nankang AR-1 semi slick tyres. Still need to swap out thr gate spring to a softer spring, running a 4 port solenoid and with a 1bar spring there's very limited resolution, kept spiking and hitting engine protection.

Lol yeah but considering it's not even 1.5 years old with 17xxx kms on it, it's a joke!

Just going for a drive in my skyline starter kit

Surplize modapuckers lol This happened today, driving back from work like a normal person. Doesn't happen when I drive like a complete knob, or launch it at 4k. Anyhow tried off and turning it off and on, that didn't help ? So headed out to pick up the missus in this shit box, and spanked the limiter, she didn't like it.