Dose Pipe Sutututu

Surplize modapuckers lol This happened today, driving back from work like a normal person. Doesn't happen when I drive like a complete knob, or launch it at 4k. Anyhow tried off and turning it off and on, that didn't help ? So headed out to pick up the missus in this shit box, and spanked the limiter, she didn't like it.

Definitely taking the Skyline, this just happened tonight lol

Depends on budget, generally I prefer ECUs that don't use the AFM. Generally these are good options and reasonable in price: Haltech Platinum Plug-in Pro (a bit dated, but still very powerful and plenty of I/Os when you run the AUX harness) Haltech Elite 2000 (no DBW and multistage engine protection, just single, need to buy patch harness OR wire in) Haltech Elite 2500 (I run this, I love it - easy to tune as I self tune, need to buy patch harness OR wire in) Link G4+ Link Fury/Xtreme (need to wire in) Adaptronic M2000 Adaptronic 440 (they're ok, buggy but if you know how to work around them they're good value) Then there are more mental ECUs out there like MoTec and Syvecs, but overkill.

I assume you're American to some extent, based on the HKS SSQV BOV haha.. No idea why your people love them so much, it's annoying as bat shit. I would invest in a decent fuel pump too, nothing too crazy. A DW300 would be decent enough for your goals, with the option of running E85 later on for mild power.

Exactly!!!!!!!!!!

Put it this way, there's a reason why you see heaps of PowerFCs, Microshits, EMS Stingers, Wolf 3D, 4D, whatever it's up to now, etc. for sale on the used market and not many Nistunes, Haltechs, Links, etc. Because they're ......

Although not as modern as some of the full standalone it has it's merits as @GTSBoy has pointed out. Also it's easier to setup with larger injectors (thanks to the TIM) and you can run the R35 MAF card with a drop down (where as in a PowerFC have fun scaling it). Not to mention it has basic launch control, basic TP Load and water temp engine protection (neither of which the PowerFC has) and flex fuel support, with reverse flex fuel support, i.e. primary map is E85, compensation table is 98RON but wait there's more, you can actually change the blend amount too between the primary table and the compensation table. So good.

Yes you do need FC Datalogit to tune it properly, with the hand controller you're missing out on many tables and functions. Also, just curious, why did you decide to buy a PowerFC in 2019? They're so outdated, low in features, doesn't' support flex, doesn't support triggering changes, doesn't do heaps of things actually.

Does the car turn off when you release the handbrake? It should, if it doesn't whoever wired up the turbo timer and/or built in turbo timer in the alarm should be shot and have their hands cut off. Also, turbo timers are gay.

I think so, has PRP on it but better check by installing them and record some anti-lag videos ?

Get a PRP coil kit, billet thingo, braided wiring, and fits under the stock coil cover. I'm running them, jammed in a bit more dwell and shit is lit. Don't go with the other ones on the market, you can't run the stock cover without trimming.

Going to need new coils to support that big huffa Please throw that igniter pack into the bin!

@mlr you coming in your whooshy pssh sututu machine? I worked it out, if I get up at 5:15am (which I do most days), get the car out the door by 5:30am by playing tetris then be at Wilberforce by 6:30am. At that point if my car hasn't broken down, or been defected then will cruise with @PLYNX to whereever @niZmO_Man you coming Mr Uber?

Actually prefer yours @PLYNX but not sure it will work with my stupid setup lol

Adam, the ex-welder at Plazmaman did the lot for me. The catch can is also baffled internally He's not cheap, but his welds are like what you see on Plazmaman ICs and plenums. If you want to contact him, I can PM you his details.

They also don't mind high rail pressure too, at 4bar they become "1150cc" as most retailers advertise them at which is misleading. Just like how plenty of eBay retailers called the Bosch 1550 a 1650cc injector

@PLYNX car itself looks pretty normal, not too low about 2cm wheel gap but does have a nice dent on the driver's guard from when I bought it 6 years ago and the rear guards have rust on them lol. Engine wise, pod is covered, catch can setup is fully plumbed back, most things are black but because I am a moron - I've disconnected the gate plumb back LOL

What time do you usually start? Actually considering it lol Let's hope I don't get defected or lose my license or both.

They are too small, unless you bump up the base fuel pressure to 4 bar. You'll need about 35% more fuel flow. Say if you're already at 80~90% DC then you won't have headroom for E85. You'll be able to get more power out of your setup, as I can imagine you're pretty knock limited on 98RON with that small turbo. Don't expect miracles but a 10~15% gain in power is possible

Yeah HC800 are the Thailand version of the HC+ You'll find some Aussie retailers will tell you that the HC+ and HC800 are the same, they're very different. HC+ is made in Japan (and the price shows too) Do you need new pads for your new setup?

A bit tempted to join you, but I'm not confident my car will last the 3~4 hour drive, I still haven't pushed the reliability of my fuel system. Currently running 2x wallahbros connected to 2x SSRs but PWMs (which is what I'm afraid of), been hearing that feeding this style SSR PWM will cause them to die quick. Then again if they fail, easy, screw driver and swap some wires around and the pumps will be full time. haha will need to see, a bit strapped for cash because hey who doesn't need a new bathroom and 2x holidays in a space of 3 months LOLOLLLLLLL

Or convert to DBW and piss off the AAC, IACV

@PLYNX maybe we should meet up for a drive, haven't been on one in the R33 since the old motor, which would be nearly 3 years ago. Meet up with @mlr and that Indian uber driver @niZmO_Man lolol

Actually a RB20DET would run better as it has less timing in it.