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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. @PLYNX car itself looks pretty normal, not too low about 2cm wheel gap but does have a nice dent on the driver's guard from when I bought it 6 years ago and the rear guards have rust on them lol. Engine wise, pod is covered, catch can setup is fully plumbed back, most things are black but because I am a moron - I've disconnected the gate plumb back LOL
  2. What time do you usually start? Actually considering it lol Let's hope I don't get defected or lose my license or both.
  3. They are too small, unless you bump up the base fuel pressure to 4 bar. You'll need about 35% more fuel flow. Say if you're already at 80~90% DC then you won't have headroom for E85. You'll be able to get more power out of your setup, as I can imagine you're pretty knock limited on 98RON with that small turbo. Don't expect miracles but a 10~15% gain in power is possible
  4. Yeah HC800 are the Thailand version of the HC+ You'll find some Aussie retailers will tell you that the HC+ and HC800 are the same, they're very different. HC+ is made in Japan (and the price shows too) Do you need new pads for your new setup?
  5. A bit tempted to join you, but I'm not confident my car will last the 3~4 hour drive, I still haven't pushed the reliability of my fuel system. Currently running 2x wallahbros connected to 2x SSRs but PWMs (which is what I'm afraid of), been hearing that feeding this style SSR PWM will cause them to die quick. Then again if they fail, easy, screw driver and swap some wires around and the pumps will be full time. haha will need to see, a bit strapped for cash because hey who doesn't need a new bathroom and 2x holidays in a space of 3 months LOLOLLLLLLL
  6. Or convert to DBW and piss off the AAC, IACV
  7. @PLYNX maybe we should meet up for a drive, haven't been on one in the R33 since the old motor, which would be nearly 3 years ago. Meet up with @mlr and that Indian uber driver @niZmO_Man lolol
  8. Actually a RB20DET would run better as it has less timing in it.
  9. Very good result and insight, I find with 4 ports they're interesting to get right. I currently have a 1bar spring it in and between 1~2% change on the DC it's changing as much as 0.3 bar at time. I'm going to take it apart (maybe never) and swap it to a 0.5bar spring and see how that behaves, hopefully give the control range a bit more resolution.
  10. @Lithium do you also have a graph with the manifold pressure? the torque sure drops quite heavily resulting is very flat power up top, nearly looks like valve float (if pressure remains constant).
  11. @PLYNX My R33 has seen about 100km in the past 4 weeks, I get more enjoyment driving the Tiguan. I cannot be cured On the upside you keen on a built motor, GTX3576R Gen2, full stupid spec overkill fuel system, kebabtech 2500 with more sensors than you can think of? Wait, better yet just buy my car LOL @mlr LOLOLOL lucky mine is only the Minister of war, she has no idea of the family finances and thinks it just rains money all day. Decided we needed 2x holidays in the next 3 months and on top of that let's re-model the bathroom.
  12. You can't just slap on bigger injectors on. At least run a RB20DET ECU so the fueling it somewhat in the correct ballpark. You're commanding the same pulsewidth on bigger injectors, what do you think is going to happen? Imagine a garden hose you open and close for 2 seconds. Now go use a fire hydrant and open and close it for 2 seconds. Is the flow the same? No.
  13. Platinum Pro to Link is a big step Elite to Link is sideways
  14. Sorry was referring to Ben's more recent question about the EBCs which was asked on Thursday. OP probably had Microtech with pots you adjusted with a flat head screw driver using visual cues to determine AFRs.
  15. I believe he is running a PowerFC - so running this on a near stock setup provides much better value for money. Side note, the amount of people who splash out on EVC5/6 and don't bother connecting up vehicle speed and RPM input but yet insist on getting the best EBC because it controls boost well.
  16. Great write up with the car, hopefully you go to the track and get kicked off (that's a good thing). Try these, simple and effective upgrade for any CAS issues, I know it's not as accurate as a proper crank trigger kit - but it's so much better than the Nissan CAS. Nearly all my silly misfires, issues with triggering are now non-existent. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/
  17. Now with wanker obnoxious noises, fit for a dickhead in a Skyline
  18. Does that one have a vehicle speed input? At least you won't throw PS belts anymore (if you ever did). I kept spitting PS belts when the motor was spun close to 8.5k on the limiter at a skidpan. Had to pop it back on twice then ended up lowering thr rev limiter (no fun in that).
  19. Rotated the wheels on the beast, man 20s aren't light. They're like 25kg per corner! Dealer wanted to charge me $40+ for a wheel rotation during the $420 service, yeah nah. Also, wheel bolts are torqued to 140nm not 100 ~ 110nm like wheel nuts. Yes those are OEM lock bolts
  20. Need Elig or Intima pads? ? I can help with either and also DBA rotors and Turbosmart stuff. Most of the time the brakes aren't too bad, but it's the choice of friction material that is the real let down. What times were you lapping at Wakefield?
  21. It doesn't modify shit, it applies a compensation/trim in either short term and/or long term trim. The fuel table stays as is. However in aftermarket ECUs it stores the trims and you're able to apply it to the base table. This is the only time it "modifies" the fuel table.
  22. If I had to pick, I'll get the GFB as it's piss easy to use. Plus you can change the colour of the controller to suit your interior. I've used an eBoost once and didn't find it very intuitive. At the end of the day, these things do the same thing with the same type of solenoid, yes the eBoost will allow you to boost by RPM however does your car/setup even need it? So save your money, get the GFB and spend the change on your missus.
  23. Nice work, be good to see your data with sump baffling. When I reassembled my motor, I had to bin the 2WD windage tray as it doesnt suit the 4WD motor with an ASR sump modded for that motor. How good are those NZ cam triggers? Car runs so much nicer and those random misfired are non-existent now for me. Had so many trigger count errors and what not with 2x Nissan CAS units. Planning for more power or just jamming it with stronger parts so you can thrash it's mum without a care in the world?
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