Dose Pipe Sutututu

Yep, like how people insist VCT does nothing, delete them OR say how twin scroll is a waste of time.

I've driven it around "in da hooodd" and it seems ok, have driven it around with the A/C on as well to generate more heat. So far no leaks. Yet to do a long drive OR a track day in it, so both will be the tests. I think if I were to do it again, I would just plumb the water return straight into the intake manifold's bleed ports (un-used) on the top side, noting that I have an aftermarket one. I hope this works well, because I cannot be fked working on the car ever again In terms of your usual highflow kit, I would just return the water to the hardline behind the head.

Time to get measuring (not a fun job)

Another thought, are those actually NEO cams made for the NEO head (shim over bucket) and not the non NEO head (hydraulic lifters)?

@Toff if it's a NEO and it's making the noises you're describing, it sounds like you need to work on the valve clearances and measure/replace shims as required.

I am going to chime in here and say that is very bad advice for a built motor, making decent power of 400kW+ Especially if the rings have been gapped on the looser side. The more power you make the heavier you need your oil to be to be able to maintain that suspension between the moving parts, if not you'll have journals and bearings making love and grenade a motor. Remember that all moving parts inside the motor aren't ball bearing and are journal bearings and require oil to separate the surfaces from contacting.

Depends on how extreme, however if you look at SMSP, they're all dominated by Hondas and M cars on amateur/street car events.

Very even markings on the spark plugs, looks quite healthy to me. I may have missed it, however is your sump and catch connected? If so, perhaps block off the sump to catch can vent/drain and see if you get less oil consumption. (Assuming the oil vapours have a bit more time to catch along the oil galleries/passage inside the motor and not continue as vapour out of the cam covers). Worth a shot, I have a ball valve on mine so when I'm not beating it at the track the sump/catch can drain/vent is blocked off.

Had to google what a quart is lol.. so rough as guts a litre. That's a bit excessive, also what oil weight are you running? The whole steam cleaning idea isn't too far fetched either. Maybe as you suggested, turn off the WMI (assuming your Kebabtech pulls timing, boost, etc.) and run it for a bit and see if there are any noticeable changes in spark plug colouring.

Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.

ZF 8HP or go home

350/370Z CD005/9 seem to be a good choice, but you'll need to address the diff ratio issue.

I think throwing the hydraulic power steering system into the trash and converting to electric power steering, e.g. Astra PS pump would solve many issues.

Useless lot aren't they? Releasing stuff on the market that doesn't do what it's supposed to do without you stuffing about with it and spacing out the spacer lol. FFS.

What radiator are you using? I did have overheating issues before sitting in traffic with the AC with an eBay special radiator, moved to a PWR and problem went away. Just ended up blowing the motor instead.

Good price bro, list it up on Facebook Market Place. You'll have to deal with heaps of dumb cnuts but it will sell much quicker.

Lazy clutch hub not engaging properly? Even on a 35 degree day with the A/C on, mine doesn't overheat. Just the coolant hoses behind the starter decided to weep and put the car off the road for 6 months instead llolol

What ecu? What injectors? Using AFM of MAF?

Might as well wrap the dump

If you can tune a JZ, you can tune a RB. Same same but different. Pork Gyoza vs Beef Gyoza, both Japanese.

might as well go e-throttle

FWIW, I've always found Toyota A/Cs to be much colder than Nissan ones. Even that 2024 Nissan X-Trail (that VW Australia lent to me), the A/C isn't as cold as other base model Toyota Corollas/Camrys, etc. Maybe Toyota A/C compressors are superior?

Lol far from it, just another idiot wasting time and money on this shit box.

There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller Have a squiz here:

Would a S14 or S15 subframe be a better option?