Dose Pipe Sutututu

Man, E85 on a NEO would be tits.. won't be scared of blowing apart ringlands or any of that crap Get a new diff!!!!!! keeps the power down, back in the days (way before this shit box).. I had a R33 making about 240kW it would hock up sideways and all sorts of shit then I bought a used 1 way Nismo diff.. geez, it struggled to break traction. The stock R33 viscous diff is a pile of shit LOL.. This current R33 runs a 2 way KAAZ.. night and day difference, with 200kW before it would bog down on launches! That ECU file works, thanks Stao! Looks like my timing map isn't far off, I've got 16 degrees vs. your 17.2 at full noise however your top end is a little more aggressive at 20~21 mine's only 18.. but I haven't put it on a dyno yet to find out when it stops making power. Also noticed your car idles stupidly rich like mine too, there's loads of fuel on idle & your target AFR table for closed loop is set at 12.5. I wonder if I bump up the fuel rail pressure the injectors might spray better at idle.

awesome, thanks for that but the file is corrupted hahaha... Do you run a proper diff in your car Stao?

alrighty... so last night I was bored after soccer, really bored.. I drove to UNITED Yes, what did I do? I filled up the entire tank with E85 hehe.. *giggles like a little bitch* Because my timing maps are pretty lazy, me also lazy just blanketed 5 degrees ontop of the entire map - rescaled my injectors to 840cc (to allow 30% more fuel) and it was pretty spot on when on "some" noise. So after some quick runs around the block to check AFRs and knock, I gave it a good quirt at 1.4bar of boost, holy shit In 3rd the rear end is fighting for traction (I'm running a 2 way diff as well) and AFRs were around low 12s (when converted to gasoline AFRs).. Will iron out a few issues and replace all my crumbling lines with gate barricade lines I have sitting at home then off to a dyno Anyhow, just my random morning rambling. **edit those five 0 injectors are still giving me grief on idle & cruise - but it's not as bad on E85.. I suspect one of the injectors are lazy and not opening at such low pulse widths.. I pulled out all my plugs on the weekend and the burn was pretty even - meaning no lean cylinders on noise.. from the logs, once the pulse width goes over 2.2ms the spluttering goes away. I suspect a shitty injector somewhere.... just need to pull them all out and see WTF is going on. Also note, don't ever buy used high flows.. I made that mistake, ended up with 1x dud and bought 2 brand new ones.... can't really blame the seller either, but hope he didn't sell me known dodgy ones because I would loose my shit if he did.

LOL... me too!!!!!!! I posted the same thread like 7/8 years ago

MOARRRRRRRRRRRRRR BOOST 1.5bar would be good haha

yeah and loads of swearing - if I "had" a NEO motor I would have just drop in modern top feeds and would have called it a day.

maybe $300 by not going top feeds?

lol.... yes I am aware of that, but for some we just don't pour all our money into our cars and do what we can

UPDATED PRICE LIST $40 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $150 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position $200 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece & no snapped studs $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $10 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (front) $10 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $10 SR20DET S15 Radiator SOLD $180 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost SOLD 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread SOLD $40 RB25DET S2 AFM SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor SOLD $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (back)

AND SOLDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

I'm basing this on the assumption he has 2x tunes (which he might not). Five O Motorsports themselves and various other US based forums. LOL... man you guys are digressing! I was saying to pass 98RON through the car every so often to keep the injectors happy.

Do you ever pass 98RON through the tank? it's good to run 98RON every 10 tanks of E85 or so.

and they come in blek for more stealth haha

^ yeah, correct.. just make sure the vent is adequate and not some tiny fitting as now there's no vacuum source to help with "pulling" the oil vapours

Honda boys swear by hektic air filters "noticeable gains" LOL... man, that's a snug fit but looks porn!

sounds there's an issue with the plug? wouldn't make sense other wise.. also put a multimeter on the injector and test the resistance - see if it's similar to other ones.

^ very good explanation, I think perhaps the heatsoak causing the numbers to drop! then again I prefer long ramp rates as you said, if it can handle a long as beating on the dyno means it "should" handling the straight at Wakefield park without anything going through the side of the block

^ hahaha.. maybe was a hub dyno? I tried using shorter ramps and I got better numbers when I was doing the S15 lol

bigger gap > smaller gap (only applies to motor vehicles) smaller gap > bigger gap (applies to females) box gap > no gap (applies to females)

just take it to a drag strip, clear it out

Well it only over fuels on idle and light cruise under 2500rpm.. once you go past that it's controllable. With the Five O injectors, several guys on this forum seem to have decent success with them, however all are running E85 which requires more fuel thus would produce a better spray pattern Zero boost control issues at the moment I'm going to hire a dyno probably soon, still need to finalise my mate's S15 on E85 then my shit box. Timing isn't that low, I compared a similar SS2 map and it's only 2 degrees more than mine at max torque. I don't want to dial in too much until I put it on a dyno and listen to knock carefully. On the street I can't hear anything through the headphones but then again there's probably not enough load - oh yeah, remember it's still on 98 I prefer to run 9km/sec ramps so it takes around 20 seconds to do a full run giving the motor a good beating and give more realistic numbers unlike other shops that do 8/9 second ramps.. numbers shoot through the roof LOL

cold side, keeps Mr AFM happier

so in conclusion: Stick with Nistune Either:Buy a R35 AFM Install your Z32 in a 'blow through' configuration (but it might pop the cover off with loads of boost) Rip more skidzzzzzz

you weren't clear, sounds like you said the ECU can take in a wideband input and use that

Use a R35 AFM in a larger tube.. food for thought: http://www.pmas-maf.com/store.php#!/~/product/category=8217001&id=32363037 Nistune doesn't have wideband input, only uses the factory narrowband. The wideband is read by the software on your laptop only through a serial output from your wideband controller or gauge (all in one units)