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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier. But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on. I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator. All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.
  2. Ahh it is now working, drove to consume two beers today.
  3. Straight swap for my R33, I know what I got.
  4. Looks like it works. Treated myself to a few expensive beers at Bangor Tavern.
  5. Once you join SAU, you never really "leave". The Skyline curse comes back to drain your bank account with interest, CPI, additional fees baked in. House deposit anyone? nah.. Skyline.
  6. better do the twin scroll properly, here's a good read https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1XrYzd1jk7/ And screen shots for those that don't like Facebook:
  7. Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
  8. Yeah I spent close to a year finding one. I was even tempted to buy a RB25DE N/A head and port it out. That latter option, could still be an option.
  9. BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠
  10. New setup just needs a VCT enabled head and it will come on so much earlier. At least 500rpm of added response, if not more.
  11. Here's the workaround with Nistune I was talking about, just add in more timing on the decel table And play around with the fuel cut & recovery, it's enough to stop it from stalling on a decel
  12. A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
  13. Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
  14. Liking the new charger, battery all good (I think). Also like how you can put it in power supply mode too. Will troubleshoot with that sometime soon.
  15. Pretty cool No battery backup siren, I have a motorcycle siren in mine.
  16. First time, battery connected, then I went to disconnect it (thinking maybe the battery is fked). Both times, HUGE sparks went flying and shit started to glow 🥲 I'm planning to do that next, unplug the alternator. Just a bit of a pain in the arse due to the plenum and DBW, but needs to be done. Threw sparks even when I just touched the +VE jump point, even before letting go of the clamps. Good point about the amps, there's a 8 gauge going to a fuse block that splits into 2x 12 gauge. Going to be a fun process of elimination
  17. Hmmm.. trying to theorise what else it can be. Still don't understand how sparks were being thrown, and the clamps/connectors touch points started to glow. It was like putting a spanner across the terminals. More troubleshooting soon
  18. You work fast and efficient, all that would have taken me at least 2.5 years LOL
  19. So.... here's one for @GTSBoy ..... I plugged up the battery in the boot, to my surprise no sparks, no shorts, alarm went off, dome light on, etc. tried to crank the car, motor rotated a few times. Battery is pretty flat so will need more juice before I try to start it. With the battery plugged up at the back, when you pop a volt meter across the chassis and the jump point, you get a nice 12V, no issue. However, when you disconnect the battery at the rear, you straight up get a short. My broscience is thinking there's some issue with the rectifier, dead diodes perhaps?
  20. It was $7 more than the 10A - as an Asian, I see value. Dollar per A lol 5A - $113 - $22.60 per A 10A - $189 - $18.90 per A 15A - $196 - $13.06 per A Sure the maths stacks up, however does the use case? maybe not - however I wish to purchase a boat in the future.
  21. New charger, who dis? Apparently the boating guys prefer this charger over the CTEK ones. Plugged up the flat battery and got some data
  22. Lolololol maybe, man I hate this car. Lapsed judgement a respray and a new motor, when I should have just scrapped the lot when I had the chance. Farken.
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