Murray_Calavera

I'm guessing you already found this option? https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/Invidia-Catted-Test-Pipe-Nissan-350Z-Z33-07-09/370Z-Z34/Infiniti-G37-V36/FX30/FX50/QX70-HS09N7ZTPC

Lets start taking bets. I'll put my money on high flow cats.

Yeah ok, so have a think about it. What is sound? A vibration that propagates as an acoustic wave? When the pad and disc make contact, there is vibration. That vibration causes your lovely high pitched noise. The shims prevent the transmission of vibration. No vibration, no noise. Now lets keep thinking about the situation. You are an OEM. You are trying to make a profit. Why would you manufacture all of these unnecessary brake shim hardware if it does nothing? Is that money well spent? Look at all of the stock cars around you. They are dead quiet. They have brake shims/hardware. Your skyline came from the factory with quiet brakes. It also came with brake shims/hardware installed. If you cannot install the brake shims/hardware, clean off all of the built up brake dust. If you still can't install it, get your hands on a workshop manual, instructions, watch youtube videos or just take the car to a mechanic who can do it for you. It's a 5 second job so should be very cheap to do.

Your oil pump does not know how much oil is in the sump. Your oil pump is driven by the crank, the faster the crank spins the faster your pump spins. What your saying is correct, that's why having the extended and baffled sump will be an advantage. You'll have more oil in your sump with that setup.

It really depends on how you plan to use the car on track. Do you want to do 20 minutes sessions on R comp tyres on the track flat out the entire time? This will need plenty of cooling upgrades and the BBK will be 100% needed for this scenario. Are you happy to do 2 or 3 laps flat out then let the car cool down before going flat out again? This scenario is much easier to achieve and could be handled on upgraded rotors/pads no problem.

It would only be a benefit to add the extended and baffled sump, regardless of any other oil control mods you currently have. Having said that, if the engine is currently in the car, yeah it's a bit of a ball-ache to install the sump. I imagine most will do all of their oil control mods after they pop their first engine and it needs to come out for a refresh.

It's not really the extended sump causing issues, but the higher flowing oil pump that normally goes along with the extended sump. If the head can only drain at X but the bigger pump is flowing Y into the head, you get the idea. So the issue of oil pooling in the head needs to be addressed. I believe both the Lewis modified sump and the Aeroflow sump have fittings to allow you to vent the sump to the catch can. This is the main issue, blow-by builds in the bottom on the motor slowing the return/drain of oil from the head. Up to you if you want to do anything further like head drain/enlarged oil returns/oil restrictors in the head/etc What oil pump will you be using?

I know Nelson Racing Engines like to do dual fuel/octane on demand for their monster street cars (2,000+ hp) https://nelsonracingengines.com/blogs/nelson-racing-engines-projects/69-camaro Wish I had the money for a NRE built car, they are works of art!

I picked up my gloves from Revolution Racegear in Auburn. https://revolutionracegear.com.au/

@Dose Pipe Sutututu 40 + 10 micron sounds good to me. That's the filter I'm using. This is my setup, ignore the yellow circles, they were for an unrelated thread.

Yep, agreed. I thought 5 micron at 88% efficient was quite good. I don't know of a filter that does a better job, if I did I would have gotten that one instead lol

Closest I've seen is something like this - Which is printed by Mako Motorsport https://makomotorsport.com.au/collections/nissan/products/nissan-skyline-r32-dash-mount-custom

Am I the only one that thought 30 micron filter wasn't small enough? This is the efficiency chart of the filter I use, it filters down to 5 microns.

Just checking, is it the case that you have a Japanese wiring diagram? If so I might be able to help with translation.

What are your thoughts on going to a single turbo setup? You don't need to bolt on a huge turbo and you'll open up a lot more options this way.

The only problem is it won't stay stock and the cycle will repeat itself lol My genuine vote would be to keep the skyline and buy the M3 as well. Then every time you find yourself saying, hmm maybe just a set of coilovers for the M3... you can go drive the skyline and leave the M3 stock.

It starts getting truly crazy if you put an $$ hourly rate on the time you've spent working on the car. If my shitbox vanished into a blackhole, the saddest part for me would be all the time lost that I had poured into the car.

Something like this - https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/aeroflow-fabricated-oil-front-sump-fits-rb20-rb25-rb30-af82-2017?gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJl7T4zqfYyaNjJy6aOXwLw9Iz8T_u_lpNM2juRSK7qnB0FC2bhk3ShoCnQEQAvD_BwE Or you could send your stock one off to be modified by someone like Lewis Engines.

Sounds like you didn't install the missing brake shims/hardware.

Once they match up the rotors for you, just make a note of what car they come standard on to make life easier in future.

Hello again! Have you brought the rotors into a brake supply store in person? I would expect that the current rotors could be matched up pretty quickly if the staff at the store were able to play with them in person.

The curse of the jelly brake fluid strikes again lol. Glad it's sorted now though

Were measurements taken? You can't really eyeball a crank and say its in spec. I'd be interested to see what was recorded, you can compare it with the specs in the workshop manual that I've attached. I don't know what is local to you, but an engine dyno would do exactly what your describing. Up to you if you think it's worth the cost and time to run the engine up on a dyno before it's put in the car. It's also a nice way to break in a freshly built engine.

@MBS206 I've got the factory heat exchanger, oil temp sensor in my sandwich plate and water temp sensor in the factory location. Happy to log data if you like.

Thanks for posting this up, the work is very impressive! Do you mind saying what the total cost of the conversion was in the end?