MBS206

No. The tune is f**ked. The numbers you put in the computer, aren't right. If you keep driving the car, then it seems you want to take even longer, and spend even more money fixing a broken motor.

That would be too easy for diagnosing. It's more fun to play throwing darts aimlessly... I vote change the O2 sensor. Reason? None, just a random dart thrown.

No, the tune was f**ked. Much like your tune is. It could end catastrophically for your engine. Either exploding engine, decimated bearings, or just burning the internals of the engine up. STOP DRIVING THE CAR AND GET IT TUNED / LOOKED AT BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING!

To add to this. Apart from some cranky cold starts, the tune that was on my ECU years ago for a relatively stock RB25, was happy to run and boost hard my RB30DET, with a TD07S on it. It was very out of tune, but would run and drive "like normal". Except AFRs and timing weren't right.

Depending on the exact Sprints being ran, there may end up being a need for HANS, but from memory MotorSport Australia only need that currently at state level upwards, but I foresee them lowering that in the coming years, may as well plan for HANS capable setup.

"Why do my pistons have little dimples in them kind of like a golf ball?" "Why does my pistons have a huge hole in it" "Why did my valves burn out in my head" "Why did my turbo get cooked?"

Computer says speed sensor circuit. So they're following the same logic as a mechanic and just swapping the associated part... Totally skipping the part of proving the issue with a known good part, or actually fault finding like testing the wiring.

Is the light on the ETS controller on, and how bright is it? So far you've only chased the ETS solenoid wiring, what else have you connected and where? Take good high quality pictures to show us.

Nah, just German economics. Fanatac also gone into liquidation too. All german companies. Also, I think this is the 7th time BBS has been in Insolvency since 2007.

You should see what the fish do in it! 😮

What are the ring terminals you used?

He was quick to lend a hand to mates, even for a shit job like moving house! Not only did he bring the enclosed trailer to help you move, but he and Mel cam down and helped me many years ago when I moved out of a share house, bringing the trailer along to help move non running Skylines! (yep, multiples!). Not only that, but loaning his old Ford tow car so Duncan and I could go all the way to Morgan Park with from memory a hire trailer, for a super sprint weekend. I remember long trips, around 2013 I think it was for SAU Nats in Adelaide. I drove the Patrol down, with Neil riding shotgun, and Sarah in the back, towing the huge trailer, even blowing a few tyres on it between Sydney and Wagga! And then his amazement, as I put the trailer and patrol to bed at the apartment in Adelaide with an interesting and tight reverse. Shell, like you, I'll never heard the nicknames again, or his phone sign offs. Or how he loved, even in our last phone conversation to take the piss out of me because many many years ago I offered the suggestion to give @Duncans fuel pump a hit with a hammer, as he and I seemed to be thinking worst case scenario for the GTR lacking fuel pressure after a few laps. While I was thinking dead pump, and I think Duncan was chasing other electrical issues, it was Neil with a calm head who went "Have we checked if there's any fuel left in the fuel tank?". Yep, Neil was right... And he wouldn't let me live it down (Or near a car of his with a hammer...) Then at my first track day ever, Shell loaned me her old R33, Neil came out as passenger/instructor. His words at the end of the session were "You're crazy! I'm never getting in the car with you again on a race track!" (However, he still stuck up for me when the Wakefield staff came to have a word about "the incident" and made damn sure I was back out there ASAP!!!). While he wouldn't get back in the passenger seat on a racetrack with me, he still handed me the keys a few years later to take Cheryl out on track at MDTC (and still very loudly refusing to even consider riding shotgun with me!) Always one of a kind. Neil was the nicest, most caring, un-grumpy, grumpy man you'd ever meet. Because as someone else said, he didn't care what others thought! Oh and we all knew what he was thinking! I think it's why I got on with him so damn well! Definitely missing you Neil! You, your antics, and our fun times have been on my mind all weekend. Rest easy, and keep laughing at us Neil!

Neil, you'll be missed mate. It saddens me deeply that I can't pick the phone up for a quick question that always turned into a 2 hour amazing chat! We had many a good laugh. I always enjoyed joining you at the track, travelling to catch up and see you burn more fuel and rubber, and I was truly looking forward to seeing you with Cheryl back on the black stuff. I'll see you in the next chapter buddy! Rest easy!

Pull that wire off the starter, and then test again. Then reconfirm what I said above or we can't help you back trace this. From here, it could be as simple as a wire with stupidly high resistance.

From you photo, you should have two really big thick cables on your starter motor, connected via a big ring connector. Both of these should be on the same big stud. The solenoid on the starter motor should then have a small spade connector. This is the signal wire for starting. Big fat thick wires should be constant 12V, like always. That small thin wire should only received 12v when you turn the key to start. Now as there's a heap of wiring changes having been done here, my next question is, have you confirmed where the other end of that signal wire goes to? If you're doing an aftermarket harness, chances are, there's a relay to be triggered somewhere. Track that down. Then also check out how the key wiring is done. What other wiring apart from the engine harness is modified? If your signal wire constantly reads 12V, you have a problem.

Bleed it again with the engine running.

Oh they definitely are plastic junk. I'm also concerned at him giving advise to lay an oil cooler perfectly horizontal, without mentioning anyway of getting air flow through it, even though he recognises it's quite tricky and complicated. The best advice for this thread, has been given, and it's not start working on things and changing them, it's work out from hard data if there's an actual problem, and what the setup presently is. If we don't know what the setup is, we can end up chasing our tails around and around and around.

I honestly think you should move it up by whatever priority possibly. The time you're spending chasing this issue could be better spent doing PWM and resolving it fully.

Those setups of laying a cooler flat isn't just a case of lay the cooler flat. There's a bunch of aero that goes into it too. Its why some cars if you even take the plastic under tray off they can start having hot/cold issues.

Euros have a button on the dash to make the bearings quiet. Wait... That one just makes the radio louder. But, same same...

Is it just a popped in dent in plastic? Or is the paint cracked too?

Is it enough to warrant a body kit for the 5 now? Or so small that it doesn't warrant it, but it's so big that in 6 months you'll be so annoyed you won't be able to look at the car? And on that note, what are you thinking of replacing it with?

Because he's using a different product, designed different, works different. Can create a problem.

The first thing you need to do, is validate if you have a problem of overheating, or something else going on. Do some data logs. What is the whole spec of the car, and don't just say "bigger radiator", what brand, size, etc? What FMIC, what's done to the motor?

Put up photos of the crimps you're planning to use. Let us critique them 😛 But seriously post them up before you use them