GTSBoy

Take it apart and check it again.

Nah. R32 is "shit HICAS". The R33 would be better described as slightly "less shit but still very shit HICAS" and the R34 could be described as "you had a chance to actually make this shit good but you missed it shit HICAS".

Well, technically that is Super-HICAS.

Actually it's the shape of the contact patch that makes wider tyres "handle the heat" better. It's not that they actually handle the heat better, but that they don't heat up as much. A narrow tyre has a long contact patch. That is flat on the road interface and the whole body of the tyre/tread face has to deform every time it hits the road, passes under the centre and then departs the road surface. A ~65 profile tyre has a square contact patch. A wider, lower profile tyre has a wide contact patch. There is less deformation as it goes under the centreline every rotation. The reduced deformation causes less internal frictional heating. In serious (is track) tyres this means that you can actualy use softer compounds on these wider tyres, which is what gives the tyre better all round traction. If the compound is not optimised for the heat input rate, then you will either struggle to get it up to temperature, or you will give away some possible grip. All the usual shenanigans that come into choosing the absolute optimum tyre, which is too many variables for me to hold in my head.

Also look at the clutch fork. Mine suffered a lot of wear in 10 years.

No yaw sensors in HICAS. It's usually the steering angle sensor, but also can originate in the HICAS CU. The Oz delivered R32 GTRs had a factory recall to repair the CUs which sometime had a loose screw running around inside shorting shit out, and electrolytic capacitors all eventually reach EOL, etc etc. No HICAS has any form of closed loop. It just sends out the "wiggle the rear end signal" when it thinks you'd like it to turn in. If that happens to be when you are sawing away at the wheel trying to fight understeer midcorner on a wet track, then so be it!

Not just tyre height. Total wheel height. You put a 13" rim on with 165/65 tyres and the car will sit hella low, but the eyebrow height would be the same as it would be with an 18" wheel with 245/45, even though the 18" wheeled car would be ~30mm further off the ground. The eyebrow height is totally a function of the loaded spring length, and a real and relatively reliable indication of whether the car has been lowered excessively. The cops and road authorities have tables of the stock and minimum eyebrow heights for (presumably all) cars in the market. Although possibly just for Bogandores, Foulcans, imports, Lancers and Hondas. The other "too low" measurement, being the poking of a 100mm ball on a stick under the car to check clearance is a bit harder to do and needs to be done on a perfectly flat surface to avoid arguments from the (well informed) driver/owner of the car. The eyebrow height takes 30s and a tape measure to do.

If by "this" you mean only the hydraulic associated issues with deleting HICAS, and not the fact that electric HICAS is still equally capable of trying to kill you as hydraulic HICAS is, then yes. It is easier to get rid of R33 HICAS than it is on R32.

Bong water.

This is all only true for R32, which had hydraulic actuation of the rear rack. The R33 onwards cars had electric rear racks, which obviate all the hydraulic concerns.

This is almost certainly a button problem. The little carbon/rubber pads don't work when you get a layer of schmutz on the contact pad. Usually a wipe with isopropyl is all that is required. I have to do it on my remote fobs every couple of years, various calculator buttons, the alarm keypad in the office. Anything where the buttons get a lot of use and get funky.

Nah. Complete removal and destruction. The use of lockout collars and lockout bars, retaining the crappy old tie rods and tie rod ends is....the nasty 90s style way of doing things. These days you can get brackets that are used to mount to control arms that replicate the setup of non-HICAS rear ends. These are literally called HICAS delete kits, as opposed to the HICAS lockout kits of yestercentury. You can knock the ball joints out of the steering arm on the knuckles and replace with bushes or bearings that get rid of the slop. What I did instead was replace the entire rear subframe with a non-HICAS one, pulled out the solenoid valves, plumbing and changed the PS pump (this is an R32 with an R34 motor in it, so was hydraulic HICAS, which is the worst of them all, and the R34 motor brought along its PS pump for a no effort contribution to the HICAS eradication programme). But I suspect that that will be a bit harder on a GTR. I could use an A31 Cefiro subframe which I found lying around. And you don't need to worry about any happiness or otherwise of the HICAS CU and anything it might say to the ECU. For one thing, you have a Haltech and it simply won't care under any circumstances. But I don't think even the stock ECU would give 2 shits. It certainly doesn't in the R32. Remember, these are vintage cars. Not the heavily integrated shitboxen of the last 20 years.

Also, on further thought, that is one of about 7 photos I have taken of my car over the last 10 years. I wouldn't have taken more than 50 of the car in the ~24 years that I have owned it, and the majority of those would have been of the empty engine bay during the transplant surgery. In terms of shots of the whole car, I have 2 in that location and one in my carport at home. And....I think nothing else. So don't hold your breath!

It's not OBD1. It's Nissan Consult. Their own protocol. It's easily readable with any workshop grade diagnostic handset that has Nissan config files. I did it (for HICAS diagnosis) with a generic workshop handheld on my car back in about 2000, immediately before I rendered HICAS unable to f**k with me any more. And 10 years after that I ripped out every single HICAS related thing in the car, except the CU (which is needed to keep the power steering happy). HICAS is the devil. It is made to make 7/10ths drivers look like 9/10ths drivers. But if you drive the car harder than 7/10ths, it actively tries to kill you. It is too stupid to handle real driving. HICAS is also very hard to diagnose, because from what I can tell, the CU rapidly forgets codes if the initiating failure does not stay present. So you can really only diagnose it while it is in the process of losing its mind. 'twere I you, I would put a HICAS delete kit on the car. With decent upgrades to suspension arms/bushes, tyres and a wheel alignment, the car will turn in 11ty times better than the apparent improvement given by HICAS back in the dim nostalgia days of the late 80s.

HICAS is trying to kill you. That is the rear rack having a spaz because the HICAS CU is having a spaz because some input sensor to the HICAS is having a spaz. You need to connect a diagnostic handset to the car and pull the codes. There is a dance you can do to put the HICAS into diagnostic mode, but it often doesn't work when one of the sensors used in the dance (steering angle, brake pedal switch, etc) is not working properly.

Thanks. Eyebrow height is defined as from centre of wheel to top of guard arch.

Hmm. Even though I've got that manual and have had it for.....more than 20 years, I never bothered to look or care to see what the 26 idle speed is. 950! Shit. It must be because of those stupid multithrottles not being able to close enough to keep the air out of the inlet ports. There can't possibly be a reason why it would need to idle that high otherwise. It's not like it's really any different under the cam covers than a 20, 25 or Neo. FWIW, a 20 probably is the one engine that deserves to idle higher, owing to the tragic lack of torque at anything less than 40 psi of boost. Having a little help to get it off the line would reduce those embarrassing stalls.

Get them to consider cryo-treating the new one. The guys at the automatic box shop across the road from me do a lot of drag cars of various sorts, and in particular some Barra turbos. They achieved much better capacity and life from cryo-treating the input shafts on the Barra boxes, and also on some of the other stuff they work on.

Without you offering real numbers, I would have said the flippant answer was, "if you have to ask, you can't afford it". Which is still probably true anyway. I'm sure some people, who after budgeting $X found that they were actually costing $1.5X to $2X, might decide that they can't afford it. ie, ask the question and discover the flippant answer. I think your numbers look really good, as in, surprisingly low, given what you're doing. I think at least part of the reason for that, though, is that there's a lot of sunk cost in getting the car and other supplies and equipment and driver development, etc, to the point you were at at the beginning of this season. The true cost is somewhat hidden by only looking at the year's operating cost. I realise that the year's operating cost is the actual cost for this year's racing. ie, if you didn't do any racing this year you could be up by that amount of $. But in order to be able to even think about doing this year's racing, you have a long tail of previous expenditure on your books.

Yeah, nah. Stock idle should be ~650rpm. This is a number that can actually be set in the ECU - which is much easier with Nistune than without. I have mine set to 600 - actually saves fuel when you spend a bunch of time sitting at the lights on your daily commute like I do (or at least used to more so than now). But these are entirely different effects, and unless the Nissan engineers were particularly sophisticated and thus had the AAC also contribute to cold idle up by running a higher setpoint when cold, I would expect the AAC to actually close down while the idle is being made high by the cold start valve. If the idle control strategy is in play all the time, then it should be trying to control the idle downward. And then, as the cold start valve closes, the AAC might be too closed and it will open back up again every time the idle speed drops below the setpoint. Josh is wedded to his factory computer because California. GTRs have the clutch booster.

Mine sits at the minimum height recommended for good lower control arm geometry, which is also effectively the same number for the minimum eyebrow height required for road legality (which is about 345/355 mm).

I ended up tearing up my same vintage kevlar Response drivers in the front doors, after one got wet and corroded the voice coil area. Had to make up these bad boys to replace the flimsy masonite panels that had been in there for years. Still running the Response dome tweeters and crossovers against these. Sounds great. The extra work put into the mounting baffle and sealing were worth the....very large number of hours spent getting them right. I think the baffle is 16mm thick, so it needed a lot of shaping to fit under the trims.

Bah. Who needs tweeters in the parcel shelf anyway? I don't even have full range speakers in the shelf. Just 6.5" woofers suited to infinite baffle or very large enclosure. Driven from subwoofer output, no shitty treble. Sound stage in my car is 100% from the front. Much better imaging.

You choose the restrictors (number, sizing) based on the pump capacity/pressure. The bigger the pump, the more restriction is needed. The oil pump manufacturer will likely have recommendations. The oil control thread probably has lots of mentions, but it might take some effort to tease out the valid info. There's plenty of other mentions in other threads on here. Do some searching and see what you scare up. The search tool on here mostly works. You can also use google to search any given website directly.

Yes. But they might have to be hacked up to suit another brand of lift. Worth looking at to decide if a good design to copy, or buy to hack up.