GTSBoy

Well, you could see if there is pressure at the pressure sender tapping point by not having anything connected there and see how much oil comes out as you crank it. After that, then yes, start to look at providing pressure to the sender by other means, to see if it can sense any pressure at all, and/or connect some other oil pressure measuring device at the same spot (ie your old one) and see what it says. I have to be frank - these problems usually turn out to be user error. It is hard to guide troubleshooting for things that are so completely random as user error. It's not like we're troubleshooting known, common failure modes of the stock equipment. You have to examine what you've done very closely, take it apart (physically and mentally) and see what ball bearings (real or metaphorical) fall out.

It's a long time since I had an RB20 and I'm 2600km from my RB25, so I can't easily check for you. So my recommendation for optical guidance is....There are RB20 diagrams in the R32 GTR workshop manual, which is fairly easily found for download.

Maybe. Maybe not. For a "genuine" street car, a billet block is an unpleasantness that you'd rather not have to live with. Much easier to deal with the thermals in a cast block. So, if you want a street motor that pushes past the sensible limits of a factory block, but don't want billet, then this is the way forward. If it costs nearly as much as a billet block and offers at least as much "strength" as you need for the street motor, it doesn't really matter if it gives anything away (in the way of "strength") to the billet block. If it takes away the worry of the stock block shitting itself and spilling money all over the road, then it's all good, no? A very valid concern. I was thinking similar thoughts last night. Not sure what the best solution would turn out to be. Hopefully someone clever would come up with a design that allowed you to go in more than one direction. It's not really like the main bearing and crank pin dimensions are inherently a problem. Billet cranks with the same dimensions are plenty strong. So the only real question is whether you design a closed ecosystem of block and crank to do things to permanently fix the oil pump questions, or whether you leave all the options open and limit how good the best option can be. Again, like the point about the billet block - I suspect that it doesn't matter if you cannot get "the best" out of this, if what you can get is "more than sufficient" for the sort of street application that I think it would be aimed at. Yes, but in the case of RB26 blocks, only just a little bit taller. Or, at least, not as tall as the RB30 block, so that fitting it into R32 engine bays doesn't require all the usual crap. A taller than RB30 block (for RB30esque builds) is probably not required, no?

Just delete the coolant feed to the TB. We don't need them here in Oz. Not cold enough to need to prevent icing in the TB, unlike northern Nippon.

So, either you ballsed up the install and actually have no oil pressure.....and have almost certainly trashed the bottom end, or.... You have ballsed up the install of just the oil pressure sensor.

And....if you believe that, I have a lovely piece of harbourside real estate I would like to offer for you purchase consideration. Seats are worn because seats have been sat in. For a long time. And a lot of miles. And "a lot" is more than 80k km. Try 180 k km.

Scum live in Sydney = scum work at Sydney airport.

And complained about it then!

Yes, so even if the N1 block has slightly better material, and even if it has some casting changes to improve an obvious weak spot or two, and even if they take just tiny bit more trouble in the casting process, they are/were still cast at the same plant, using tooling that has knocked out heaps of copies, on a normal mass production basis. They can only ever be a tiny bit better than the other RB blocks cast at the same place. An aftermarket cast block is whole 'nother matter. Most of the cost to be recouped in the sell price is in the development. The extra time and effort spent on making sure that the cores are all well located, pours are done to more narrowly constrained parameters, etc etc, only adds a little cost per block. Untenable for Nissan on a mass prod line, but completely viable on an aftermarket line. Just swallow those costs and add to the sell price because they are dwarfed by the big numbers from earlier.

Follow the clicking noise?

There absolutely needs to be a shame plate for people returning from a DUI license suspension.

Just to be clear.....none of that audio shit mounted in the dash is OEM right? It's all aftermarket Jap? In which case, if there is a tool for removing the headunit, it will be Pioneer specific. Some little thing made out of 2mm thick flat sheet with 2 prongs on it or something, to push in and release the tangs. Would only be accessible after you've removed the fascia trim from it. Same with the Panasonic things. Just work out how to prise that trim off from around the shifter and up the dash. Probably some screws hidden in the ash tray, and the rest of it is just clipped in and you break the clips off with a small flat blade screwdriver and then swear a lot.

So, capable of more flow. If needed. Which usually is not the case.

Average over what? Time? Rev range? Ignoring the dictates of the thermostat? Exactly what do you mean?

There is no N1 pump in the above flowrates. Only 2x Reimax high flow pumps and mention of a "stocker".

Plus a couple of other factors..... the Nismo 2-way is still pretty miserable to live with on the street. The Nismo Pro is a much better option - you can adjust it somewhat. I would defo prefer a Quaife in the front. Almost certainly prefer a Quaife in the rear. The only time a helical will let you down is when you prop a wheel up in the air. Are you going to twist a GTR chassis enough for that in a drag race?

You actually listen to the radio?

Yes, there are cable ties on mine too, to assuage my paranoia.

I call bullshit. On a 3mm straight steel pipe (unbarbed) with rubber or silicone hose pushed on more than ~15mm you wouldn't be able to expand the hose and apply enough force to get it to pop off the pipe with anything like the boost pressures available on a petrol engine. Sure, use a hose clamp if it assuages your paranoia, but in reality it is absolutely unnecessary. That's why the OEM Nissan hose for the wastegate, the FPR, etc, have nonesuch. (And, yes, I realise it's only 0.5bar in most of those applications, but the reality extends waaaay up past 3 bar). Small hose? Slightly too small? Spit on it, push it on, let the spit dry, forget your problems. Especially when we're talking small bore SILICONE hose, which is about a billionty times more forgiving of such abuse than nitrile. Remember, it took 25 years for your OEM Nissan rubber hoses to get old and die. The car we're talking about here will not even be able to be fuelled in another 20 years. If you do manage to find your own supply of ethanol, you'll have to put in an application in triplicate to the ecoNazi department of your local government for a permit to be able to take it out on the road without computer self-drive and you'll have to sign up to 150 hours of community labour to pay off the CO2 emissions penalty from your voluntary environmental vandalism. So there's no need to worry about this hose sneaking up on you and ruining your life/engine in the meantime.

Just spit on it.

Just for clarity - I'm talking the whole engine. Not their TBs.

Don't install the MAC valve until you need it. The stock ECU wants the original boost control solenoid. It is possible to make the MAC do its job, but that's a f**karound that you'd just have to undo. The stock boost control plumbing schema is readily visible in the factory service manual, which is easily downloaded. It picks up a boost signal from the plenum (I think, it's definitely upstream the throttles, anyway) and sends the boost signal on to the wastegate actuators. The MAC valve plumbing is very simple. Boost reference from the same pre-throttle location as the original. One of the other ports is the outlet to the wastegates. The other is the vent. The MAC valve is just a 3 way valve that has one common port that is switched back and forth between the other two ports when it is energised/de-energised. There is a diagram on the side of the valve that shows you this. The boost source goes onto the common port. The wastegates are connected to the port that is fed from the common when the solenoid is not energised. The other port is the vent and should be connected back to the pre-turbo, filtered inlet duct (ie, after the AFM(s).) There are literally dozens, if not hundreds of threads on here with diagrams. But the words above should be sufficient.

Yup. LS3. Or maybe VK56.

What do you mean "converted with hemi heads"? Let's make a few points. I'll presume you do not mean "hemi" as in "Hemi"....ie Chrysler heads. That's what a lot of people would mean when they say "hemi heads". I know and totally understand that the concept of hemi heads is much wider than that. Example such as ALFA twin cams going back to the 50s spring to mind, amongst hundreds of others. Are you aware that there's not really any such thing as a 4 valve hemi combustion chamber? Have you ever seen one? There isn't room to fit 4 valves in. That is is why 4 valve heads are all pentroof design (or some variation thereof). 4 valves provide more valve/port area than 2 valve heads do, which is why they exist. Going backwards from 4 valve pentroof, to hemi 2 valve seems.....backwards.

Water flow rate is controlled by the thermostat. So, despite the higher maximum capacity of the pump, the actual operating capacity will be whatever the flowrate that is required to achieve the cooling determined by the water temp at the thermostat. Pump power is proportional to both mass flow rate and pressure rise. Assuming that the pump ends up making a bit more head against the restriction caused by the thermostat, then the power rise will only be because of that additional (wasted) pressure and not from any extra flow.