GTSBoy

That's not how a clutch works. It's not a switch. Clutch goes from disengaged to engaged smoothly and takes up speed difference. Throttle applied at the same time to satisfy load change. If you truly have a long rev hang, have you considered that the auto tranny will mask a lot of problems with things like the idle speed being wrong/too high from the throttle plate being stopped too open or a vacuum leak/IACV problem? The manual makes you have to take care of that, via the first paragraph^.

You've changed man.

Hardness is really not an indicator of compressive or tensile strength. It is somewhat inversely proportional to toughness in that harder materials are usually more brittle. This is one of the key complaints I have with the idea of hardness testing cast iron blocks to determine how "good" they are. Further, just because there is a different proportion of a given element in a cast iron (yes, iron, not steel) doesn't necessarily mean that any of the mechanical properties of the resulting cast iron will scale up and down in the same direction as the mechanical properties of the element. One of the whole points of alloys is that the alloying elements often to interesting and unexpected things when combined into the crystal matrix. Nevertheless, pure metallic nickel is about 1000 Brinell and typical grey cast irons are about 250 Brinell. So, Ni is not softer than cast iron. Addition of nickel can close on double the hardness of cast irons - if hardness is what you are after. The problem is that nickel is also used to increase high temperature resistance of cast irons, and when you do so, it tends to decrease the hardness. So ask yourself....why would Nissan add more Ni to the cast iron spec for the N1 block? I would suggest that hardness is not necessarily the most desirable property of a cast iron in an engine block application. Tensile strength and toughness would be higher on the list. Tensile strength only inasmuch as it contributes to the stiffness of the finished casting. The properties relating to castability (how it flows, etc) would likely also be higher. Vibration resistance is an inherent property of cast iron that you would not likely choose to reduce. Well, with a billet block being made from aluminium alloys, like 6061, which is only around 100 Brinell. So....

Not in any meaningful way. Face it, cruising "rich" puts far less heat into the cat than running it under high load rich - and they always run very rich under high load. There are so many better solutions here. All of them starting with installing something useful. A wideband, for one. An aftermarket ECU, for another. I just wish we weren't facing another generation of broke arse people buying GTRs without the f**king financial wherewithal to do what needs to be done and instead trying to drag them around on the bones of their arse, just because they spent their last $75k on a 30 year old Datsun.

It's also the work of 5 minutes to make replacement hard line pieces with a flare tool and 6" of bundy tube.

The switch is supposed to be closed circuit only in neutral, open circuit in all other positions. If it is closed in all other positions, then it is somehow installed wrong, or broken. How you managed to achieve that while swapping the reverse switch is likely to remain a mystery. The other mystery, which we need to solve, is why it is working backwards mechanically.

I would just bite the bullet, go dry sump, put heater into/onto oil tank and pre-heat before driving. Should be possible to use a standalone lithium battery pack + maybe a small inverter to run that heater so you can do it anywhere without drawing stupid power from the starting battery.

The base circle dimension would need to be identical on them for it to work. Beyond that, I don't even know if the cam journals are the same, if the attachment for the timing gears and VCT actuator are the same. The CAS drive is definitely different on the exhaust cam. If the base circle dimension is not identical, then....lifters would be a problem. The Neo is shim over bucket solid, and the vanilla 25 is hydraulic. If you throw a cam with a different base circle onto a hydraulic lifter, you might take it out of its correct dimensional range and have it lock up or collapse. I would just some Kelfords cams. The R32 GTR/GTS4 wiring diagrams are here. I shall presume from your profile that we're talking about an R32, and not something that came with an Rb25.

Where is the wiring diagram? The wiring diagram tells all!

There's only one way to fix this stuff. f**king test light! A multimeter is $10. !!!!!!!!!1 one juan

Yeah, nah. It's the viscosity of the silicone fill fluid. It is available in....many different gooeynesses. You can't split the Nissan ones, but you can split the Toyota ones and there have been numerous successful reports of refilling them with different silicone oils and different quantities - learning the parameters that control how they operate.

Well, that's not roll over noise. That's tattered bearings, for which there is a fix.

Remove pads. Scuff them back on some very flat, slightly rough but not too rough concrete, put them back in and attempt to bed them in again. If that doesn't work, discs off, onto disc lathe and give them a little skim. As well as another scuff of the pads.

What is an ICM? Beyond that question.....pull out the wiring diagram and the multimeter, and go to work finding where the power isn't.

They don't all have the same temperature setpoint though. Very hard to know what that is too.

Which I guess means that braided lines for an R32 GTR/GTS4 would be the thing to buy.

They're noisy at idle. So what's new?

I can't answer the exact question, but.... custom braided lines are not hard to organise. I'd just front up with measurements of the two parts of the hose length (from body fitting to strut mount, from strut mount to caliper) and samples of the fittings needed at each end, and....wait 30 minutes.

And..... what model? Here's a big recommendation. Do not consider operating the car with a significant turbo upgrade on the stock ECU. You really need to be tuning it, otherwise you will blow off the end of the stock maps and be running in "make it up as you go along" land.

No. Apart perhaps from removing the carpet under 3 of the mounts and slotting the 3rd one by about 4mm. Then you gain....4mm.

Fan should spin. But because the viscous fluid in the coupling should be "thin" until it heats up, it won't transmit as much drive to the fan as it can once hot. So the fan runs much slower cold than hot. 33°C is a pleasant spring day here in Australia. It shouldn't be roaring. It should definitely be louder and working harder, but shouldn't sound like a crappy old 4WD. Just to be clear...... when these things fail they don't necessarily fail totally. They don't necessarily just lock on cold. They can still be quiet when cold, but just get noisy at lower temperatures than they are supposed to. I bought genuine Nissan. I gave up on the aftermarket ones.

Fan should be quiet at that time. The clutch should only start to "lock up" as it gets hot. Some but not much. If it is quite stiff, then it's well f**ked. Yup. As per my post above....I think Dayco might be OK. Not 100% sure. I've not had any luck at all with anything aftermarket. Only the genuine original Nissan one.

Whilst being entirely proprietary. The protocol is called Nissan Consult. It's Nissan's own serial diagnostics interface and protocol, only used on Nissans. But any good general purpose scan tool should be able to do it.

Take it a mechanic who has a scan tool.

The GTR was a monster that was born under the sea in Japan. The climate there is not as.....bakingly hot as it is here in Oz. The local Nissan engineers, and in particular the guys who wanted to homologate the GTR to race it here, wanted to make sure they weren't going to suffer any heat related problems. All the grey import GTRs are sans these coolers and do not suffer too many problems. Almost no-one ever thrashes a GTR to the point where it becomes an issue. You'd need to be leaning on the car very hard in fairly hot conditions. Not saying that there are no GTRs out there that had been used in this fashion and needed coolers added. Just saying that it is not the #1 problem. Not even the #10 problem.