GTSBoy

Ooh. I would not have expected that. I wonder when they started saying that? It's been a few years since I last spoke to anyone at Vehicle Standards.

No, that's Victoria. SA has always been far more reasonable. Not necessarily easier, once you actually do change stuff, but definitely more reasonable. Hence my authoritative statements in my first reply.

This has all been thrashed about on here before. Viz. There was a link to a specific LED globe in that thread, but that's just one of a number that are available that are at the peak of what is worth looking at. The cooling solution,s arrangement of LEDs, adjustment options, etc etc are all major differences in the many options available. And all of them still fall a little short of being a good match for a typical H1/3/7 enclosure. Sometimes it works nicely. Many times it's just wrong in one or multiple ways., in $US https://www.4x4truckleds.com/crystalux-g11-series-led-headlight-fog-light-conversion-kit/ Note the price, in US$. These are not your $20 eBay cheapies. I'd try some of the better ones in my R32 projectors if it wasn't for the fact that even getting them installed is a misery.

Possible. Both the effects on the cam timing and the ignition timing will affect how it runs.

Shouldn't need to upgrade the highbeams beyond putting Philips/Osram/equivalent +70 or whatever globes. The reflectors are a good design and they throw light decently enough. You won't do any better than that. The lowbeams can only be improved in one of two ways. Simply put the best globes you can in them (as above). Take the headlights completely apart and retrofit and entire Morimoto HID projector setup into them. This is major work, not particularly cheap these days (currency conversion), but gives the only real improvement possible. When simply upgrading bulbs, it is also a massively good idea to go to the effort to make sure that you convert your wiring so that the globes are powered via relays, instead of passing the globe power through the headlight and dimmer switches. If you were to put HID projectors in, then some more clever wiring changes would permit you to use a hi-lo HID in the low beam position so you will also get HID high beam from that light (instead of it turning off, like it does with conventional globes now when you go to high beam). It is actually essential to make sure that HIDs don't get switched off the way the R32 does anyway, because they don't like it and they have "warm up" time.

And a year down the track, another follow up. The UAS arms have not done well. They work, when new. But after 10000km of daily driving they have "stretched" so that the centre pivot that provides the equivalent flexibility of the GK-Tech arms now allows the arms to bend (instead of just twist) at their centre point. The amount of sloppy motion that this permits in the suspension is just gross. The car was really quite scary to drive. Very vague, as you'd expect. So, the GK-Tech arms went back on yesterday. As soon as they were bolted up you could tell that the suspension upright's movement was being controlled properly. No wild wiggly slop. First drive this morning - much better. Clearly the UAS arms were allowing quite a lot of random upright twisting, which affected toe angles and camber in the middle of every load change. So, my vote's still with the GK-Tech arms, by quite a long way. Even when they suffer some wear in a rod end they won't allow as much slop.

Yes, and the President of Madagascar is touting that a herbal tea they make there will cure coronavirus. You can't believe all that you see or read on the 'net. There are a few LED globe replacements that are getting there in terms of nearly being useful. But I'm willing to bet that you just bought some eBay trash. If you're spending serious coin on LED globes, with careful research, you're going backwards, not forwards.

You have made a mistake. Who told you that LED bulb replacements were a good idea?

The whole car is in the wiring diagrams in the back.

Not relevant on an RB20. Won't be a vacuum leak, as your idle is low, not high. What is the timing set to?

The R32 GTR manual has all the wiring diagrams you could ever want. it is freely downloadable all over the place.

I'm not sure that's the question he's asking. But there's a bigger question. How round are the bores? Any taper? Any lipping at the top? All of these things need to be considered before thinking you can just drop another piston into the hole, regardless of whether the major tolerance on diameter is good. I am of the opinion that if the motor is apart, it deserves to be done properly.

It will fit the wheel. If the wheel is on the car, why don't you go outside and have a look/measure for yourself as to whether there is sufficient room for it to swing?

They're solenoid valves. One is damaged. They are probably for the charcoal canister purge, triggered by the ECU (because they look similar to that used for that purpose on RB25 Neos). Connect boost gauge to a small bore vac line coming from the plenum.

Look at the dates on those posts.

I thought you said you had a good car. There's your good battery. Just bring the power over with the jumper leads.

It's even worse than that. There are locating dowels at the front you have to remove, and while the front left will bolt in, it twists the alignment of the seat runners. The floor/beam is a different height in that corner on 34s. I gave up trying to fit 34 seats to my 32 after a few attempts. Not worth the f**karound.

Well.....look for the parasitic drain. Start at the battery. Put the multimeter on a current setting in between a terminal and the loom. If you find (significant) current flowing, then proceed to do the same at each fuse. But I'd be willing to bet that you're alternator is not working correctly, based on what you say about what happens when you connect it to a car that has a working alternator.

As Ben said above. In addition, it's not 1983 any more. You can have compression + turbo. anyone building a DET up these days should be looking to increase compression from what the factory had.

Yeah, now, it's not really the same thing at all is it? R33 gearbox

I would suggest you could save back the cost of a Nistune in fuel consumption alone, in a couple, maybe 4 years, everything being stock and doing ~20000km/y. And it would be better to drive. So.....it's not a bad proposition.

We're not talking about an ECU. We're talking about Nistuning the stocker, which allows you to improve all the little details that are not right, like the fact that the mixtures are too rich most places and WAAAAAY too rich once you add boost. I can tell you with 100% certainty that my car, which is basically a stock Neo (standard AFM, standard injectors, standard turbo) would not be drivable at all without the Nistune in it. The TP cut that you get somewhere around 11 psi is absolutely f**king brutal. You also get weird random bullshit triggered by the boost sensor that you can override once it is tunable. And that's without me needing to have it just to deal with the ABS & TCS fault codes. My car would also be a shit tonne slower and would use about 20% more fuel without the maps being cleaned up. I know this because it has been there before I did it.

I'm with Trel. You can pull out all the excess fuel everywhere, but especially in the R&R region of the map. You can dial in that little extra advance where it helps bring the boost on and driving off boost in gneral. You can get rid of the annoying limiters if you need/want. You can dial the idle speed down to 600rpm and save some juice at the lights (It DOES work). You can interrogate the ECU when you have problems, etc etc etc. Worth it, just for those benefits. If you want 10+psi, it's essentially compulsory.

Mental notes; The above is valid for electric HICAS, like 33 & 34. Not same same for hydraulic 32 HICAS. I shudder when I see chassis stands under the rear end of the chassis rails. It's too far forward for a stable support and it puts a lot of leverage from the mass of the rear of the car on the contact points and drives dents into the chassis rails. I prefer to locate them carefully under the subframe. ... Otherwise. Good.

There would have to be 20000 posts on SAU about it. Just put either manual boost T or a proper EBC on the car. It's not 1997 any more.