GTSBoy

In other words, slow down the shifts.

There's an enormous difference between "fixing the surface" and "taking off metal to make it actually straight". So the answer depends on what problem you need to be solving with this method.

Without checking for myself, I'm almost certain that is the vac feed to the solenoid valve that then goes to the charcoal canister. I have a question for the OP. Why didn't you just look at the vacuum line diagrams in the workshop manual?

Yeah, nah. I think the N/As only had BM38 MC, which is 7/8" and will work, but the pedal isn't great. Lots of travel.

No. The 2 pot brakes (upgrading from them) would benefit from a bigger MC.

I vote one of the clear acrylic wheels.

There's no difference in the calipers, except the width (and obviously the leg length). So no.

Your formatting is doing nothing for my OCD! Talk about consistency!

Easy Otherwise I vote

Externally venting? You know we're going to point to that as a significant risk to the satisfactory running of your engine. The factory ECU can only handle so much shit done against it.

S13 are Mac strut front end. R chassis are double wishbone. The hubs are not even remotely the same. The rear suspension is the same on both.

If you can wait until the weekend I'll get the scuff plate off and take a photo of a good one.

In an R32, it is above your left knee. Probs the same on an R34. Probably not working having been thrown out by previous owner. So do not be surprised if not finding it.

It's where the noise is coming from.

No. Different pulse rates vs speed. Yes, of course. Although you will almost certainly end up paying for diff setup here, as the pinion from Greg's diff will have to be put onto the R33 diff's input /pinion shaft, because I think that the diffs with front ABS have a longer housing*. (I might be wrong, but it looks like it in various piccies I've seen.)

Objectively, swapping any other twin cam straight 6 into an R chassis Nissan, other than an RB is a bizarre thing to do. A 2JZ makes no sense when you can make a near equivalent RB3025/6. (I briefly considered it before doing my engine conversion on my 32). The JZ engines have the inlet and exhaust on the wrong sides, which just make fitting shit in with the steering etc in the engine bay that much more of a pain. Barra is the same wrong-handedness. It is too tall for the 32 engine bay, which requires shitty things to be done to jam it in. Put in a V6? Sure, there are plenty of reasons to accept the pain of such a conversion. Shorter, lighter all alloy engine bringing the weight back behind the crossmember? I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a mars bar. There are even RWD Nissan options, as horrible as I think the VQs are. Put in a V8? Yup, ditto for the Gen3 (or the bigger ones if you can sneak them in past the authorities). Nissan RWD V8 options exist too, and there's quite a bit possible for making them stronger now too. Can you imagine the amazeballs you would trigger if you put a Chrysler Hemi V8 in? Almost any of those ideas would not trigger the immediate negative reaction of asking about putting a Barra in. Because they have results which would justify the work, not just a brute force and ignorance taxi motor.

I hate to tell you this, but the dressed weights of all these engines have been posted on the internet many times. You just need to look harder. And no. I'm not going to do it for you.

Or, better, get a blade type AFM (such as R35) and the bits needed to fit it to a custom tube, because they are a bazzillion times better than Z32.

It's not lighter, it's definitely heavier. The RB is already a heavy arse lump. Adding more weight to the front of a Skyline is daft. Adding weight to back to "balance it out" afterwards is just daft on top of daft. Just have a look at the head on a Barra compared to ab RB head. It's literally twice the size. There'd have to be twice as much metal in it. I don't dislike the Barra. I just think it's the wrong choice for a Skyline, particularly an R32. As to Mad Mike. There is no sense in using rotary people as an example of what constitutes a good idea. Ask any of them and they will all freely tell you that they are f**ked in the head, irretrievably damaged, etc etc.

They're the bearing grades already measured for you. It's all been posted about many times before, so have a little search.

Muppet! Who said anything about VR38. There are other brands and other engines. Think Toyota for a start. Even bloody Mitsu had one. Hell, do a Euro V8 transplant. Any of these make more sense than a Barra, and still not much sense at that.

Why do YOU not go out and measure both yourself?

While that used to be true, there are other not so good things about that the Z32 ECU that made the R32 nicer to live with. And these days, the new feature packs allow you to do VCT with the R32 ECU.

If that was an R32, it would be under the driver's door scuff plate about 40mm from the back end of said scuff plate. You can't see as much of it on a 32 without removing the scuff plate, but what I can see of mine is that it about 40x better than the pictured one. As the pictured one is on an R33, I don't know why it appears to be separate from where the scuff plate is. Regardless, it looks like pox. The seam filer should be smooth and even and the paint should not look like it was applied with a goose's arse.