Duncan

Check out Lumley as well. My experience with Shannons is they were great with taking premiums, not so fair and reasonable with paying claims which I kind of thought was the point of insurance...

yeah not cheap but the engineering looks excellent. the skid factory on youtube just put one on a holden v8 and even it was able to make power!

Agreed, and this could almost certainly be made to fit https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/4x4-performance/supercharger/fdfi2300-nissan-y62-patrol-series-1-5-kit But, too much power to handle?

the point is, getting the bearing remains out is irrelevant. The engine needs to be disassembled, measure and rebuilt or simply replaced. if the bearing has spun enough to weld onto the journal, both surfaces are almost certainly f**ked and need machining. Potentially it is too badly damaged to even put oversize bearings in, but you can't tell without disassembling and measuring

Getting the bearing off the rod and crank is of no relevance, both will need to be measured and almost certainly machined before they could be re-used, let the machine shop sort it. BTW if it has spun that badly everything where oil goes needs to be disassembled and cleaned or replaced including any oil cooler and factory water/oil cooler. If machining/rebuilding is out of budget throw them in the bin and put a second hand engine in.

shit mark, glad you are OK. But if an 86 is too much to handle, what possible option is there to downgrade to?

Not sure where you are (no location in your profile), but just jap seems to have these in stock brand new https://justjap.com/nissan-passenger-side-air-vent-assembly-nissan-skyline-r32.html

Well, what it originally left the factory with is stamped on the chassis plate on the firewall. R32 GTST came with rb20det not rb25det, although some late r32 gts came with rb25de no t. But I guess you are asking if you have an rb25det motor with a turbo removed, or an rb25de. One way to tell should be a compression test as the rb25det will have lower compression, not sure other certain ways because it seems some rb25de blocks had plugged ports for the oil feed and oil return instead of nothing at all (although, no oil ports would confirm rb25de) Quick search on here suggests 75T was the casting number for both rb25de and rb25det from R33 gtst, so that doesn't help.

I don't think the Australian contingent on here can really help answer the question of value, over here we would not pay more than 8,000 or maybe 10,000 aussie pesos but r32 gtst are readily available here....

Well, this has kind of been covered here before, and I don't know where you are because you didn't fill in the location field of your profile....but answers are: 1. You need to move from 296mm rotor to 324mm rotor for r33/r34 gtr. eg DB5928 for 2 piece slotted. 2. Standard lines fit fine. R33/34 brembos were standard fitment on R32 vspec I and II models too. 3. Keep the standard master cylinder, it will be fine. You may need to trim or push back the backing plates behind the rotors, but otherwise that is a straight fit upgrade to an r32.

Well, 707160-5 is a "-5" turbo. Can't really say if that is or is not what you wanted for an mx-5, what is the capacity? 1.6, 1.8? Those turbos are a common upgrade as a pair on rb26 motors, but most people find them too big/laggy for street use in that setup

Yes, everything connected after the throttle in the current setup and MAP goes into the plenum (you'll probably need fittings). Anything before the throttle like BOV pressure or boost controller still needs to go before the throttle (on custom piping generally)

Good news, yes still available for $250

Yeah it's been a while, but not everything is sold...I need to recheck everything and probably just start a fresh thread

Yes, Yes, no necessarily (longer oil pump drive is desirable not required), not exactly (the lower bolt holes will be off between the sump and gearbox by the height of the awd adapter. depending on how much that troubles you I've seen some people just leave the lower bolts out, my gearbox was redrilled for the new lower bolt locations. The rb30 pdf guide has information on tensioner options, and depending on the block you get you may already have to location for the tensioner machined, or you may need to get that done. There can also be differences on whether the required oil feed and returns are in the block or whether you have to drill and tap them beyond that, motor prep is like any other rebuild (you can decide how far to go), and things like radiator hoses will not fit directly and will need modification. And finally, I think it is a terrible idea to put an rb30 in a R34 GTR these days. Start with something people don't care about like a 33 GTR instead (no one cares about middle children).

sorry, no spare timing cover. Also, pretty sure the 32 one is cast ally FWIW

only if he can't get his hands on a z24.

Original factory 260 turbos?

I sorted it in the end, and this is now in Motorsport Builds. Turns out there is an Motorsport / Builds section and a Builds/ Motorsport link, I was trying to move to the link not the forum. Rookie. Keep up the crazy work!

PM sent!

p787 of the workshop manual shows the wiring for the switch and p788 the defogger itself. You would need to trace through but the p787 stuff will help you understand if there is a problem before or at the switch

That button locks the ATTESSA transfer case, exactly like a 4wd with a traditional transfer case. You should never run it on dry, paved surfaces

Properly functioning HICAS is not a death trap, Nissan's GTR engineers were not a bunch of dickheads. There will be increasing numbers of people looking to own an unmolested original setup as they increase in value. Anyway, the key thing to change is those ball joints in the hub, they are a bastard to do but a really bad wear point. Both inner and outer tie rod ends can also wear so you may as well change them at the same time. The rest of the system is just the power steering pump providing pressure, the HICAS solenoid that controls the pressure and the ram next to the diff, all that stuff will either be working fine or not at all.

You ran out of fuel

Yes, I did assume 98 octane, not e85, as OP mentioned it was for street use. While e85 may not be impossible for street use it is not practical for daily driving in Oz. And these days, who know's where a poster is based BECAUSE NOONE FILLS IN THE BLOODY LOCATION FIELD ON THEIR PROFILE SO PEOPLE CAN GIVE THEM RELEVANT ADVICE!!!!