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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. Duncan
    I suspect what you need was posted above, but if you want to be certain we need your Vin# to look up the part in FAST
  2. Duncan
    I'm not much help since I don't visit all the time, but I hadn't noticed a speed issue lately, and I haven't noticed it being better since the changes...
  3. Duncan
    Assuming your car is 2wd (since you don't say, and neither does your profile) not 4wd? When you say you "fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big" do you mean you can't press the hub face back into the bearing because it is too large, or because it is too small/loose or something else? If you post up your VIN# someone can look up the exact nissan part# in FAST for you.
  4. Duncan
    Or, pull the top off and get it sand blasted clean. If you can see through it, don't paint it and put it back, otherwise do so
  5. Duncan
    30% grade audi tips over onto it's roof and catches fire defender maintains 25km/h
  6. Duncan
    I'd do it one-off for slow and shorter trip, but not regularly. For a start most car trailers are 500-800kg so that means the car you are towing is limited to 900kg. And even then when you tow right up to the load limit you often learn that while the chassis can take the load, the engine won;t deliver the performance to tow it safely (hello creeping up hills on the freeway)
  7. Duncan
    I guess you are trying to stay within factory settings; have you also got the factory suspension? If so, most likely the car is riding lower than it used to which gives more camber, you can measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the rear guard on both sides to see if it is even. New springs may be a good idea. The other, less likely, possibility is that something has been bent over the years. In that case a new, factory arm would probably correct it if you knew exactly what was bent out of upper control arm, traction arm, lower control arm, hub, toe/hicas link, subframe or subframe mounting point.
  8. Duncan
    series 1/2 R33 GTST? Little more detail required....
  9. Duncan
    The factory lines are wound right around both sides of the engine and would be a pain to remove and replace in 1 piece without the engine lifted...but depending on the exact leak a competent hydraulic service should be able to repair/replace the damaged section with something else suitable without anywhere near as much work.
  10. Duncan
    I go through Just Jap too, having separate spares rather than whole kits has been useful to me. I've ordered pads, rings and even new caliper pairs through them
  11. Duncan
    I don't know them specifically, but they look equivalent based on my detailed research (ie look at a pic on their website)
  12. Duncan
    I like them because they are cheap and good enough for the job. compare a kit that contains new calipers, pads, rotors, lines to the cost of buying a second hand caliper, rebuilding it, new pads, new rotors, new lines and you come out way ahead. And the caliper/disc combo is a lot lighter than brembos + factory style disc. And the caliper is slimmer than brembo so it fits under wheels better I've bought a couple of those kits for different cars, generally 330mm because you don't need too large wheels.
  13. Duncan
    Definitely the feed. You want clean fuel in your injectors, not returning to your fuel tank
  14. Duncan
    I reckon those d2/attkd/g4/ksport/whatever brakes are the best option for pretty much any upgrade since they come with everything including brake lines. I did manage to wear through 2 sets of rings and replaced 1 set of calipers due to sticky pistons after about 10 years running them on multiple cars, including at targa tas
  15. Duncan
    I run brembos (porsche) with an adapter on the race car and have not had any trouble. There is no reason an adapter would cause trouble unless it is not engineered correctly; strength of the bracket and resulting location of the caliper on the disk are critical I don't have direct experience with the alpha omega ones although I'm a little surprised how close the threaded holes are to the outside of the adapter in those pics. It's hard to be sure without measuring but I'd be looking for at least the same diameter as the hole to be left around it (ie 14mm hole, 14mm around it to support it). Generally their stuff is good, and I haven't heard from anyone having a problem with them
  16. Duncan
    Yes
  17. Duncan
    I've always used some sealant on half moons but none on the covers and have not had leaks. I do use new seals though.
  18. Duncan
    yeah there are 2 bleed points but they are both downstream of the pump obviously. just crack the one above the rear driveshaft first and then do the one at the rear of the transfer case once the first is done. I don't think I've heard of anyone having trouble with an attessa bleed unless they either had a problem with the system, or they didn't notice the bleeder above the rear driveshaft
  19. Duncan
    well there you go. rear is straight swap then (if there is a pair of ABS sensors on the diff end of the half shafts), but and so is the front...there is just a lot of work to change the front diff/sump....
  20. Duncan
    Yes, gtr sump (and diff) will bolt straight on a gts4 (noting it is effectively an engine out job). At the rear the drive shafts will be different so it would be easiest just to change the diff centre.
  21. Duncan
    no need mate, as long as the pump is running it will bleed the system. It's not like brake or clutch where the pressure comes from a pedal being pressed. If you want to run it long enough to flush all the fluid through just keep an eye on the reservoir and refill it as you go
  22. Duncan
    She loves it. (apparently)
  23. Duncan
    well the good news is my upper arm bushes have been lasting twice as long (you know 3-4 weekends instead of 1-2) since I move the LCA mouting points outwards 20mm. Its definitely a 30 year old geometry issue.
  24. Duncan
    well....obviously we were interested to know. even on the hottest days racing the battery temp never moved off average discharging it, we only ever saw the temp move when we fast charged the car. Pic below was from Bathurst on a 30+ degree day. So on data in front of us, no way to say it caused any trouble. Certainly the car performs exactly as it always has which is nice. Just took this battery report from our car, interesting to compare to the 2 posted earlier. Our car is a year older older and has more klms and the battery is 4 and 10% worse respectively....so my guess is racing it has made stuff all difference.
  25. Duncan
    hmmmm....I saw a pair of gtech upper arms snapped at the welds just last week. the car looked hard to drive after that. I suspect there is no good option for 32 upper arms, maybe the nismo brackets are the best idea. I did run nolathene bushes back in the day, pretty sure they went broke and got bought our like Andy said. They worked fine but degraded quickly over time, they only lasted 1-2 seasons before needing re-doing which was a PITA to do again.
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