Duncan

well in that case 32vspec/33/34 GTR used 324x32, why not just use that size and choose from the billion off the shelf options?

unless you are racing the tomei baffle is enough, but the n1 pump has had some bad outcomes, I'd suggest aftermarket gears at a minimum and preferably a nitto or tomei pump

I spotted 25 NEO, stalking me in my driveway! good to meet you

good to see you fixing all the old dodginess, although I'm not sure corolla spec parts are an upgrade. the other thing you should do while it is all apart is take the sump off, upgrade the oil pump and put drop some baffles in the sump. Not much extra work or money from where you are now, but great for peace of mind

Yeah I guess the diff lock button must be a 260RS thing because all the other models have them; strange to exclude because I wasn't aware of any other difference in the ATTESSA system. The only switches normally on the roof are sunroof or courtesy lights

well, at least you're on the right forums now. and your engine is in the usual GTR location (on a stand) It might just be the pics but the timing belt looks worn; unless you know for sure when it was last done it is a good time to do the belt, idler and tensioner bearings, idler stud and water pump

not sure I caught that; are you looking for custom 330mm rotors because you have a custom setup? hopefully the offset you chose for the dogbones matches something already in the market or you will have this problem every time you want rotors. Assuming it is custom you should get something like ATTKD rotors/rings without hats and then have the hat made in the right offset so you don;t have the issue again.

lol yep, the only way to tell what it does is to see what doesn't work with it off, or pull the panel and trace the wires.

I understand they are the same, I could check if you have a VIN for your car and a 260RS. But generally it is easiest to just pull your existing one out and reco it, should only take a day or 2.

Oh its also a long shot, but I an ex-nissan engineer in contact also remapped an attessa ECU for us once (although that car is no more). It is likely there is a difference in the maps in standard vs N1 computers in R32s. Again, I don't have exact details of what was changed

I've never replaced the stock computer because I've found it fine with a piggyback controller modifying the lateral G sensor. While I can't confirm the list you had above for fullrace, the standard one uses all those inputs + the 4 ABS/wheel speed sensors. Generally the standard system gives more 4wd with throttle, much more with rear wheel spin. The main input seems to be the Long g sensor (more acceleration = more FWD, braking = less) modified by the Lat G sensor (less FWD with more cornering with the intention that it remains "balanced" like a rwd car in corners. The standard system is a little slow (which the motec would fix) and too conservative with 4wd in corners (which we fixed with the piggyback). BTW the group A cars did not use the standard computer but I don't know what the actual technology was....it had multiple maps controlled by switches It will be interesting to see what you think is effective in your mapping vs what Nissan did.

They take pads for the AP racing 6 spot calipers, common motorsport size with lots of options but I don't have a part#

While I've got some sympathy for any people working there who didn't know about any issues, I'd be more worried about the 73 people who bought illegal cars. What was done and have they all been compensated by the business? Have the cars been made legal somehow?

lol you should probably say, or update your sig then (edit: make that profile, I can sort of see it in your sig now) you are probably limited to 8" on the front of a 33 gtst unless you are putting larger guards on, and that means no larger than 245s. as for brand I'd just ring the local motorsport suppliers and see what they have....I haven't bought slicks for years but I think they are worth considering for track only

I'm sure Terry can clarify, he used to plug JLM a lot. It could be another business on the same street so no point jumping to conclusions

"hate with a passion" is pauline re a muslim, not the feedback on NT01 in this thread. but anyway if i was running a trailered to the track car I'd be buying cheap slicks. They are likely to be cheaper and longer lasting for the same grip than any semi slick. you just run the risk of leaving it on the trailer if it rains all day. Oh, and if you have a 33 gtr for track only it should run 285 or 295 front and rear with a set of rims that suit. that gives you best traction and the ability to rotate to all 4 corners. 17s are always cheaper than 18s in the same width, so if they clear the brakes 17s are the way to go. victory to the marketing department for charging more for less rubber....

Strange that the business is not named

Did you definitely plug it back in properly? If not connected you would get the results you are seeing (ie as it doesn't open, the engine will idle lower due to the load)

What makes the Spec clutch shit so it needed to be changed out? And those comments on the nismo clutch all look like opinions not facts other than the claim it worse "quickly", whatever that is. I can't even imagine what "launching well" means; a clutch either grips or slips, and if it slips it either recovers well or it doesn't. I can't think of any negative feedback I've seen from Coppermix users, except for complaints about the price!

That seems a bit odd, why would the pick up point be any different? Is the pressure place a non-standard height? In any case, if it does come out at an odd height is there a reason the pedal can't be adjusted back to normal?

yes, that rod is a direct replacement, but all you need is the bush (particularly if the mechanic is doing it). I'd take Tom's advice and get them both from Dale

line 1 great line 2....hmmm...but I guess everyone gets impatient with repeated questions line 3.....why put shit on new members? what sort of forum would this be if we only had members who already knew everything? Try a welcoming attitude as a forum upgrade present! BTW, there is nothing wrong with a lightened flywheel, and it would certainly not lead to vibrations. Any flywheel or clutch could be out of balance which would cause vibration, not just a lightened one. I prefer the feel because the engine is more responsive, it can make it a little trickier to pull away from a stop, especially uphill where more revs might be needed.

you said nipple tehehehehe

you undo the lock nut on the outer rod end and then you can just screw the inner rod end. you already have the hard end out. I've not seen an innner end pull out before so you might want to look at the lock kit, perhaps it was not installed correctly. The inner rod ends should be readily obtainable either aftermarket or if not, nissan

Excellent info, thanks. Turns out Haltech reads and logs the fuel temp via the e85 sensor so I'll at least be able to collect the data