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sonicii

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Everything posted by sonicii

  1. No worries. Let us know how it works out!
  2. Yes, I have bought from Amayama plenty of times, they are genuine parts and come in Nissan packaging, larger items like the knuckle would come with the genuine Nissan sticker, showing the part number, the same as you would if you bought from a dealer directly.
  3. I believe most are the same rate as the standard coupe springs, or sports sedan springs, although the 350z did have revised rear springs which were firmer on some 05+ models, this may have applied to the later V35s with factory 19s too. there was a post on g35 driver which gave a list of spring rates for the coupes, sedans and 350z, with the colour dot markings so you can identify what you have. I have revised 350Z springs in my sedan, still with the factory sports shocks (red Tokico shocks), and they are all fine after about 2 years now. I can't find the page, but there is this page which might be helpful, unfortunately it doesn't show the identifying colour dot information. http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension/65190-g35-350z-aftermarket-coilover-springs-shocks-spec-s-w-updates.html
  4. What about just 350z springs? not much of a drop with a coupe (approx 1/2in), but 1in drop in a sedan.
  5. I really can't understand stupid delivery times like '4 months'... What do you actually need? the part linked above is the steering knuckle as you also specified, which I can't imagine anyone describing as a 'stub axle'. I would think the bearing/hub assy is what most would be referring to as the 'sub axle' However - https://www.amayama.com/en/search?region=112&q=40015AL550 If you need the hub/bearing - https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=40202AL510 even if you select UAE, it will generally be here within 3 weeks (although perhaps longer considering Christmas/New year break). If you select the Australian supplier, it might get here before Christmas.
  6. If it was normal, it would have been there before the first clutch install. One of my pet hates is car dealers and sometimes mechanics saying 'they all do that, it is normal'..
  7. You will either need to have Nissan program the ECU for the new key with the correct immo card loaded in Consult, or you will need to find out what the BCM pin is, which I believe can be determined from the BCM serial number, but I haven't actually done this myself before.
  8. If you are concerned about its 'pre import' history, order a report from one of the companies that can pull the auction records from Japan, that way you can get an idea if it has had the odo wound back, was a repaired write of, etc. eg http://www.japaneseodometercheck.com/ If you are still interested, get it checked by a mechanic familiar with these cars or 350Zs, tell them it has no service log books and you just want it checked accordingly (compression test, etc).
  9. Not normal for any V35 6MT.. only difference on the CD009 was improved multicone synchos. Have you checked engine mounts/transmission mount, diff mounts? How did the first workshop 'botch' the clutch install? did they possibly cause some damage which is causing the fault and it hasn't been fixed?
  10. 40202EG06C http://nissan.epcdata.ru/skyline/pv36/7257-vq35hr/trans/400/40202M/ https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=40202EG06C http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-NISSAN-SKYLINE-V36-2006-40202-EG36C-/181806929756?hash=item2a5489975c:g:CM4AAOSwMmBVqnc1 Personally, I would go genuine, but there as above, there are aftermarket options available.
  11. coupe bonnet won't fit a sedan. (GT8 only ever came in a sedan)
  12. You would need to get the error codes read, those lights are symptoms of many issues, I had the same warnings when I had a bad connection on my throttle pedal connector.
  13. yep.. that is the 298kw version.. we can only hope we get that one, not the 300hp (224kw) version.
  14. true.. but the info was more about the engine rather than what car it is in. I haven't seen any credible information on a factory 336kw version of the VR30DDTT yet. Would be nice if they do release one, but I have my doubts Australia would be the first market to get it. In fact history suggests Australia usually misses out on any tweaked versions they ever build.
  15. Because they are the only 2 formats Nissan have built with the VR30DDTT so far, unless they have some secret version they are going to release into the Aust delivered Q60, but I think that is fairly unlikely. Perhaps they were building a higher output version for the Tau Rouge, and Caradvice.com assumed that is what they were going to use? http://www.boostaddict.com/content.php?7277-Nissan-s-VR30DDTT-twin-turbo-V6-delivers-more-than-advertised-400-horsepower-Q50-Red-Sport-dynos-374-rwhp https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VR_engine https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/the-vr30dett-nissans-new-twin-turbo-engine/ http://www.drivingenthusiast.net/sec-blog/?p=32297
  16. Since the only come in a 224kw or 298kw flavour.. I can only hope Aust. gets the 298kw version
  17. 50% in 5 years is darn good resale value. bought my wife's J31 Maxima at 22 months old with 40,000km for less than 50% new price, but they have poor resale.. most cars will hit 50% after about 3 years and those with good resale, about 4. But we are talking private sale price, not dealer used car prices.. they are always way over inflated.
  18. Use NGK plugs, here is the reference http://ngk-sparkplugs.com/my34-vq25dd-neodi-c-180_5264_6317_6402_6403.html Bad plugs will struggle to ignite a rich fuel mix, which is what you have with a cold engine, so they certainly could be the cause. As for accessing the plug, I was able to replace all the plugs on my 350GT with only removing plastic parts (intake ducting, etc), normal spark plug socket with an 3/8 socket extension did the job fine, there was no need for a special wrench. I wouldn't expect the 250GT to be that different, but I could be wrong. What do you mean the 'back 3'? there are only 2 back plugs, 2 middle and 2 front.. Just hope you don't find oil in any of the spark plug tubes, as that is failed rocker cover gasket, which isn't replaceable without the entire rocker cover.
  19. I have used Amayama plenty of times without issue, but not for anything that large, postage is going to be a killer. If they have stock in UAE, it is usually considerably cheaper for the item, but postage will be considerably more than Japan. Have you tried an auto upholsterer? it will likely be cheaper to have it re-upholstered than replacing it.
  20. how could he know that, given the oldest of the V36 is only just 10 years old now.. Like anything electronic, it is going to be quite hard to predict the lifespan, some might fail before 10 years, others might go for 20 years plus. I wasn't aware of known issues with the V36 stereo like there is with the V35s.. saying that, my 11 year old V35 stereo is still working fine.
  21. I haven't done this, but If the lamp connector is the same, I can't see any reason you can't use the existing S1 HID ballast
  22. the vinyl actually still seems quite flexible, even around the cracks, pushing on it doesn't cause it to crack further or produce new cracks, but it does feel a little 'sticky'. My theory is the vinyl is actually shrinking due to 'who knows what', and that is causing the cracks to appear. I have been using meguairs products since I have had the car, like I have on other cars, but this is the only time I have ever had this issue on a car, thus my assumption it was something used on it earlier in its life. Anyway, I searched the part numbers on epc and it shows the same number for the S2/3 V35 coupe and sedan and Stagea.
  23. I can see the yellow foam backing through the cracks, so it is all the way through the vinyl, I have been very careful to keep the sun off the dash whenever possible (always use a windscreen cover when parked in the sun, and all windows are tinted), same as my old J30 maxima that didn't have any cracking at all when I got rid of it when it was 18 years old, so I can only assume it was treated fairly badly before I got it in 2011. I have been looking out for a 2nd hand dash, but it seems Series 2/3 parts are fairly few and far between. I am also not sure if the coupe dash is the same, I assume they would be, but considering the cost, it isn't worth the risk, unless someone can confirm 100%? Maybe the Stag dash is the same too?
  24. Dash cracking on sedan Has anyone else had this issue, not sure why it is happening on my series 2 sedan, I guess it might have had a harder life before I purchased it in 2011, I always use a windscreen shade if parked in the sun, but as you can see from the pictures, my dash is cracking, it started about 2 years ago, but now is cracking in more obvious places (first location wasn't even where the sun would impact it). Over $1k for a new dash, plus shipping, so I don't really want to go down that path, I was thinking of removing it and trying some of the local auto upholsterers to see if they can put a layer of vinyl over it, if they have something that matches almost exactly, but then I am worried about things like vents and other items not fitting back in. Any ideas?
  25. I believe the Manual diff is a 3.5:1 ratio, but the auto is a 3.3:1. If that is correct, fitting a manual diff will give you slightly better acceleration, but likely worse fuel economy. The manual diff should also be viscous LSD, but that was also an option on the autos.
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