Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been running qfm a1rm front and rear last couple of visits to wakie...cannot fault them at all. Excellent stopping power and no fade on my setup. Bit of squeal here and there but that doesn't bother me at all. Easily best pad i've ever used.

Handed my car to a mate for one session and he is now buying the same pads!

HC+ is supposed to be really good, a lot of Porche owners and jap tuners rave about them but may I suggest you have look at the new 08 compound from PFC, they are develuped as a endurance pad and are next to none, Mines use rebranded PFC pads FYI, always has.

HC + is a bawse pad, however eats up rotors like a bawse too.

I wouldn't recommend it if the car never sees a track, as they eat rotors and squeal like camels mating with donkeys.

If purely street and some light track work Intima SR are decent. I find them a touch better than the QFM A1RM

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

I'm keen on the QFM A1RM but unsure which to buy. I have R33 GTST front brakes and stock HR31 rears. The catalogue only states non turbo 33 brakes and Aus model 31. I am assuming the 32 GTR non Brembo will be the way to go for the front and the GTS Sillhouette Aus del for rears? Anyone knowledgable in 33's and 31's both Aus and Jap feel free to comment. The car is driven on the road to basically keep it going. It will see track days and drag days/nights.

Thanks in advance.

I use them around Wakefield holds up pretty well till about lap 5/6 when they fade.

A1RM would fade 3rd lap lol

I've just literally installed Project MU HC+ today and giving the shit box a shakedown on the 23rd August with a few mates.

Hmmmm. I currently have RB74's in there and didn't seem to run in any issues at SMP Brabham Circuit over 3 20 minute sessions. Was looking for something similar as it has some pretty quick sections, especially turn one and braking for turn 2 from a decent speed.

I recently fitted a set of Project MU HC+, have only travelled about 100 kms on the street with them so far but they seem to pull up very well and i have not heard the slightest bit of squeal yet.

Recently bought an r33 gtst-t with DBA vented discs up front (not sure exactly which ones) and stock discs at the back with Bendix pads. They don’t have very good bite initially (they feel a bit spongy but maybe the brakes need a bleed) but are ok under heavy brake load. Quite noisy also under light application.

Need to keep in mind that tyres you use will have a huge impact on braking (or lack of). What I have right now are cheap roadstones which with almost 100% tread still feel like plastic – absolute rubbish.

Looking at replacing brakes and tyres soon anyway as the plan is to do as much track work as possible.

Cheers,

Amir

  • 4 weeks later...

Has anyone used Winmax pads before? If so, which model and how did they go?

I changed my pads to A1RM a couple of months ago, today was my first drive through some mountains since installing the new pads and they pretty much gave up. I drove for about 20 minutes hard (bias toward uphill) then 15 minute break, then the pads faded within the first 5-10 minutes after the break (bias toward downhill).

Alright guys need a confirmation on Motul RBF600. It seems that some of the guys with 33 GTS-t use it. I bought some but realised that on the bottle it says its DOT4 but on my brake fluid reservoir it says to only use DOT3. Can anyone confirm that its ok/or not to use rbf600 in my 1997 r33?

Cheers

Amir

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids are all compatible with each other. DOT 5 apparently is not compatible but I've never come across it.

In the olden days, the higher number was meant to mean better performance (ie higher boiling point) but some of the best brake fluids now days are DOT 4.

  • 1 month later...

Oils ain't oils and now "Brakes ain't Brakes"

Well tried to read as much as I could and I am sure there is excellent info in amongst all of those brands and numbers, started writing them down but now my head hurts :(

Could a few of you blokes give me your best street/track combos that also work cold with no or minimal noise and I will see if I can put it together and go from there.

I believe Endless are OK..

Any help appreciated

Pete

Mainly Street DD

Edited by TT350GT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...