Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You need a bypass harness to plug into the back of your screen, not a case of cutting wires, Chris Rogers sells these, if you are lucky then you may have one installed by your previous jap owner, a give away is a small black oval switch located in cabin somewhere which turns the bypass off/on.

Not sure how the factory reverse system works, Chris could tell you, I run my reverse cam through my digital tv tuner, which has reverse cam input and switches automatically when reverse lights activate.

  • Like 2
Hello,

I dont know if i missed it, but can you make the screen automatically display the reversing camera when placed in reverse?

What would you require to do so?

How does the factory system do this?

Also which wires do you need to disconnect to make the TV stay on all the time when driving?

Thanks

Pete

not automatically. I can do it where you set the camera by a hitting the TV switch. I can get the correct kit so that it does do this but its not cheap. the OE system requires a data stream to switch the system over.

- yep you need a tv/navi bypass. I keep them here. what year is your car (or give me the chassis number and I'll tell you a few things about your car.)

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

I found this converter and was wondering if you could use this module to intergrate into the nav screen for a 'factory like reversing system'?

http

:P/www.carconverters.com.au/products/S...20preview=true

Obviously from discussions ive read we need a RGB signal for the screen to work, and if you use a NTSC camera this unit should work? am i correct?

Are there any other modules out there that people have found cheaper or better?

Thanks

Pete

Hello,

I found this converter and was wondering if you could use this module to intergrate into the nav screen for a 'factory like reversing system'?

http

:) /www.carconverters.com.au/products/S...20preview=true

Obviously from discussions ive read we need a RGB signal for the screen to work, and if you use a NTSC camera this unit should work? am i correct?

Are there any other modules out there that people have found cheaper or better?

Thanks

Pete

I went the whole solution. Bought the TV tuner from Chook (about $300) and then bought a Panasonic reverse camera (NTSC) that had a rca plug and now the reverse camera turns on automatically when in reverse, changes from the TV to AV1(with the reverse camera) and when I put it back in D it changes back to TV.

Mind you, you need the park brake overriden (special button from Japan) to be able to view the screen when the park brake is released.

Cheers

Andy

yep I have used those boxes in the past - quite a noisy solution actually. in one car I had a rather nasty black rolling line.

for the camera kits ready to plug in $400 from me (torpy I have not forgotten about yours :) )

  • 1 month later...

Hello,

Today i pulled appart the TV tuner located in the boot!

I have already done this mod, and put the RCA plugs in the centre console, I installed a reversing camera, and was sick of always having to press the TV button to get the camera to come up.

When i opened up the TV Tuner, i found that there are 2 pins on the circuit board from the main plug that have CONT 1 and Cont 2 written on the PCB.

When you ground either one of them it changes the monitor automatically to the spare AV input.

So i connected a relay off the reverse lights whichs ground the CONT 1 Pin therefore automatically switching in the reverse camera when placed into reverse.

Cheers

Pete

The photos show - 1 - TV Tuner PCB

post-55164-1244435121_thumb.jpg

Reverse Camera

post-55164-1244435176_thumb.jpg

Centre console RCA's

post-55164-1244435214_thumb.jpg

The Monitor with camera displayed

post-55164-1244435258_thumb.jpg

This should now mean we dont need a nav/video in motion bypass kit!

you could install a switch somewhere which just grounds this wire when you want to watch the screen on the move!

Cheers

Pete

Would that be as simple as soldering a wire onto the board that you have pictured - one end of the wire to either of the Cont 1 or Cont 2 points and the other end to the ground on the circuit board (I assume there is one, but can't tell from the picture that is posted)?

Hello,

If you grounded either of the CONT pins, then you wont be able to access any of the other functions from the screen as it will aways be displaying whats in the spare AV input.

A better option would be to place a switch in the wire so you could turn it on and off when you need.

Cheers

Pete

  • 9 months later...

Hi, first post for me, i have just bought a Skyline 350GT, and somebody on the UK Skyline 350GT forum gave me a link to this thread.

I would really like to get a rear view camera setup ASAP, as trying to park is kind of difficult with the limited views on this car.

So i have got a suitable plug for my TV unit, and the wiring/plugs, just need a camera, so the first question is, do i get a PAL or NTSC, i am guessing NTSC but would like to be sure?

Also my screen will not show the TV if the car is in motion, so i have seen that somebody mentioned that the hand brake and the speed feedback needs to be cut, i am presuming this is to the TV unit itself?

Thanks for any help.

Hi, first post for me, i have just bought a Skyline 350GT, and somebody on the UK Skyline 350GT forum gave me a link to this thread.

I would really like to get a rear view camera setup ASAP, as trying to park is kind of difficult with the limited views on this car.

So i have got a suitable plug for my TV unit, and the wiring/plugs, just need a camera, so the first question is, do i get a PAL or NTSC, i am guessing NTSC but would like to be sure?

Also my screen will not show the TV if the car is in motion, so i have seen that somebody mentioned that the hand brake and the speed feedback needs to be cut, i am presuming this is to the TV unit itself?

Thanks for any help.

Hi welcome to SAU you are right you will need an ntsc camera for the reverse and as for the car in motion the wires are behind the dvd rom unit above your glove box

Hi welcome to SAU you are right you will need an ntsc camera for the reverse and as for the car in motion the wires are behind the dvd rom unit above your glove box

Hi, thanks for the info, appreciate it, is removing the DVD rom unit the best/easiest way of accessing the wiring to cut

A further question, can i power the camera by splicing into one of the + power wires to the TV unit? as it would make it an easy fit, or is there a better option?

I found this for getting the screen working whilst the car is in motion.

tv bypass

Also, Im still trying to hook up my aust tv tuner, does anyone know if the Red and yellow wires running into the Jap tuner are Power and Acc? or how I can check without blowing fuses?

I found this for getting the screen working whilst the car is in motion.

tv bypass

Also, Im still trying to hook up my aust tv tuner, does anyone know if the Red and yellow wires running into the Jap tuner are Power and Acc? or how I can check without blowing fuses?

I am not sure if the that harness is the same as ours. I know that the 2 wires that the override modules work on are 3 from the edge of the harness plug and not on the edge. This may be correct but I am basing this on the override switches I have seen.

I used power from the cigarette lighter (accessory power) for the main power (yellow if I remember right) and the red goes to the relay and then connects back to the same power source. This is on a M35 as we use the relay to turn on the inbuilt ariels when the TV tuner is turned on.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Andy

Hi welcome to SAU you are right you will need an ntsc camera for the reverse and as for the car in motion the wires are behind the dvd rom unit above your glove box

Thanks for the PM, can't reply as i don't have the post count yet,

i see you mention Japanese to English satnav conversions in your sig, can yon you give me some info please?

Oh! i am actually in the UK.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well i have successfully connected a reveresing camera and a digital TV tuner that also plays MP3, i am going to cut the speed wire behind the DVDrom/sat nav drive, but i believe that you also need to cut the handbrake signal as well? can anyone tell me which wire thy are just to double check? i cannot find a hand/parking brake in the circuit diagram?

  • 4 weeks later...

This is just awesome,

I got my iphone connected and got Tom Tom to be displayed onto the screen.

Now I just need one of those bypass harnesses, so Tom Tom will continue to be displayed even whilst I am driving instead of automatically switching back to the Japanese navigation screen.

So I assume this harness is just plug and play and no further modification/ wire cutting? No need to cut the e-brake wire or speed sensor wire?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
×
×
  • Create New...