Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

glad to hear about the english conversion!!!

any idea on a price?

I am still trying to finalise the price at the moment. The exchange rate is not helping but I should but be able to firm up the price in the next week or so.

Cheers

Andy

Is that it!?! fark it is small!

Thanks for that Jules, answered a few more questions for me. :(

It may be small but that Bose set up is all that you need and the bass rocks the whole car....No need to go aftermarket unless you really love your Bass Bins.....LOL

Don't know wether this is the number or not...but it's the # on my receipt from Nissan. Pretty sure they are NGK as well.

NI22401-5M016.....they are also $24.15 each.....add's up when you have 6 of them :action-smiley-069:

Hey guys, Denso have Irigium spark plugs for VQ25det.

I have been speaking to a guy there about ordering some in through Denso themselves - which they "don't normally do".

I have been quoted $13.50 + GST per plug, $16.50 shipping for a total of $97.50.

They also have a lifespan of 150,000km's.

Part #IKH22

The only downsides are money up front & there is a 3 month wait for their next order.

If anyone is interested in getting a set, send me a PM.

As an aside the EVO9 shares the same plug and Denso supply OE to Mitsubishi, so there might actually be some in the country.

ohh and it might be possible to get them from mitsubishi even cheaper as they would probably buy in bulk lots. ohh and own a percentage of denso :P

You would think so wouldn't you?

Instead of being able to find anything in the book for Denso plugs (I was calling up about plugs for an EVO9 as they use the same plugs as my m35), I was offered a set of NGK 1GR78-G plugs... Platinum... at $53.40 EACH!!!!!

This from an authorised RalliArt dealer!

It would also seem that Nissan Japan are out of the Plugs that Tony specified and do not have a restocking ETA.

Looks like I have a 3 month wait ahead of me, DAMNIT!

You would think so wouldn't you?

Instead of being able to find anything in the book for Denso plugs (I was calling up about plugs for an EVO9 as they use the same plugs as my m35), I was offered a set of NGK 1GR78-G plugs... Platinum... at $53.40 EACH!!!!!

This from an authorised RalliArt dealer!

It would also seem that Nissan Japan are out of the Plugs that Tony specified and do not have a restocking ETA.

Looks like I have a 3 month wait ahead of me, DAMNIT!

Can anyone tell me what the problems with the plugs that I got from Nissan are?

NI22401-5M016.....they are also $24.15 each. What's the difference between these and the one Tony is suggesting?

Can anyone tell me what the problems with the plugs that I got from Nissan are?

NI22401-5M016.....they are also $24.15 each. What's the difference between these and the one Tony is suggesting?

Dunno bud, probobly nothing more than heat tollerance. I may just be paranoid :) ... I presume that you have had no issues with your car (?)

All I know is that;

1. Different Nissan dealers give me part numbers for different plugs.

2. The guy who has been complying the M35's for the longest period of time wanted me against using any other Nissan/NGK spark plug to the one I specified earlier.

3. The Denso Iridium plugs have a 150,000km lifespan, supposedly outperform any platinum on the market and cost around $16 each including GST & delivery.

4. NGK are probably the least helpful group of people I have ever tried to deal with.

*sigh* since I don't really need them now, and after reading all that I have, I will probably get the Denso plugs and wait the 3 months.

  • 4 weeks later...
OK finished updating the above info... is there anything anyone wants more info on? anything need correcting? any other RAWS people know of to add? other parts links? etc etc?

I'd just like to add another workshop offering compliance for the M35's.

Carmen Imports in Brisbane (www.carmenimports.com).

Anyone after more info on these guys, PM me in 2 weeks time ;)

ok thats another stagea that I have to do there... (I do carmens electrical compliance work :bunny: )

top fellow. check out the two legnums whilst you are there. I've had my hands in both of those and they have naviagtion on them

ok thats another stagea that I have to do there... (I do carmens electrical compliance work ;) )

top fellow. check out the two legnums whilst you are there. I've had my hands in both of those and they have naviagtion on them

Hey i went there today to check out my new stagea. Didn't read your post until just now but I did see a couple of legnums there, and a galant. Leggy's aren't really my cup of tea, but they are a nice car :banana:

I'm hoping to be able to drive my car home in 2 weeks time so hopefully things will go to plan...

Mine has no screen or tv/nav stuff so your job should be pretty easy on it i'd imagine. Is it just the radio that needs attention? ie. band expander install to pick up aussie FM channels...

PM me once you've worked on it if you like :banana:

Its been a long wait but from what I saw this morning, worth every second :D

will do. I'm dropping a car back there in the morn so I'll look at it then. PM me the Chassis # of it pls.

the radio can be done at teh same time.

do you have a dash shot of this car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...