Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just my experience....

bought jjr coils 12mths ago for $399 and after exactly 12 months they failed and caused misfire.....

was lucky to get the warranty.....and upgraded to spitfires.....going good....

Inerested to find this out too, my car does it every now and then, kinda like if i catch it by surprise and shift too soon or somethin.

but anyways I'll be getting a set of yellow jackets next week ive decided, cant wait to see wat they can do for me

I get this also?

Does anyone know what it is?

hm it seems JJR and YellowJackets don't sell any coil packs for R34 GTT's where as SuperSpark do ... I used to think they are all the same chinese coilpacks rebranded but doubt it anymore. If Supersparks were made in the same place as the others, the other sellers would have R34 GTT coilpacks for sale by now.

But anyway ..only a $50 difference between Superspark and Splitfire so might as well go Splitfire if you have an R34 GTT/Stagea (NEO motor)

i burnt out 2 jjr coilpacks within a week and i m currently having spark problems now and they have only been funcitoning for abour 2000 kms

had my yellow jackets for over 5000kms, 2 track days and a motorkhana. pulled them out the other day for inspection and no signs of wear at all, still going very strong :thumbsup:

  • 3 months later...

the JJR ones for series 2 R33's (i think they fit gtr's aswell) were a shocking unit, when i was looking for coils last month i called around and the importers of the JJR's said they were discontinued from sale and they recommended Splitfires, they said some of the JJR ones would last a year, some would last 20 minutes, as far as they told me there weren't any probs with the series 1 r33 style or the r32 jjr coils. But as for series 2 or equavalent even they said not to bother with their own product, atleast they were honest about it to me.

In the end I got splitfires, massive amont of difference from a car who couldnt rev abouve 5000rpm just before i changed the coils... now its like driving a new car

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
and before anyone on here that knows me starts...yes i know, I AM INDECISIVE :(

lol, are you sure??

just buy yellow jackets or jjr or whatever. If they don't work in your useage they are backed by real australian companies who I'm sure will refund.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...