Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it is a old model engine from the leaded era, noticed my top end was getting a bit noisy since i went to e85...

after using this stuff it got alot better and the exhaust smells nice, a few people told me they love the smell.. hahhaa.

has a cheery / candy smell to it!

Anyone running a nistune flex fuel setup? Any first hand experience? I'm currently mid-way through my E85 conversion on my 300ZX and i don't know of many cars running nistune with the flex upgrade.

  • 3 years later...

Did you know.... The first production car the Ford Model T 1908 was flex fuel compatible ? It could run just as good on ethanol as did on gasoline. There was a brass knob on the right side of the steering wheel that the driver could change depending on what fuel he was using, it was linked to a mixture screw on the carby. so awesome.... Ford!

 

Image may contain: car and outdoor

  • Like 4
  • 5 months later...
On 12/23/2013 at 10:41 PM, Birds said:

The extent of my E85 supporting mods are my 040, Nismo 555s, Z32 and PFC.

Have been running it for 3-4 months without issue. Just running a standard Ryco inline filter and standard fuel lines...thought this was fine as long as you changed them with your oil filters :/

Birds - I've looked for a build thread, what did your injectors/pump top out at running E85?

7 hours ago, Chris32 said:

Birds - I've looked for a build thread, what did your injectors/pump top out at running E85?

275rwkw is what we got to with plenty of headroom on an honest dyno. I would probably say 300rwkw is a safe max limit for 555 on E85. Anything more and I would be considering 740 or 1000. The 040 pump can handle a fair bit more power before you’d want to switch to a high flower or twin pump setup.

I did eventually change my fuel hoses (some of them anyway) for E85 compatible ones because the factory ones developed a minor leak - after 25 years running for 6 of those years with a fuel that is harsh on rubber, it’s to be expected.

Hope that helps.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

Hi all , long long time since I've been in this thread .

A while back now I gave up on Caltex EFlex and returned to 98 . The current plan when I can find time is to convert my R33's inlet manifold to the Neo T one and get into 3/4 length EV14 injectors . I want to try the split /twin spray ones that are supposed to spray at each inlet throat/valve rather than at the centre port divider . From previous research it seems that the highest flowing twin spray 3/4 length EV14's are from Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 models . AFAIK there are 500/550/630cc versions available and you'd think being emissions compliant cars that these injectors would atomise pretty well . Just on this the 2020 Shelby GT500 is getting a 5.2L intercooled supercharged 750 odd Hp V8 and it's retaining port fuel injection so there may be a larger split spray injector available soon .

Anyhow I'm curious to know what sort of power people think a 630 to 650cc injector could make in an RB25 on E70/85 .

Cheers from Adrian .

 

Edited by discopotato03
  • 4 months later...

Hey Disco

You have to think that because the ford is a v8,  it has 2 more injectors so you can make more power with a smaller injector.

We have 6 cyl's last time i checked,  so we need a bigger injector.  

How do you think the 4 cyl's feel,  those guys have to run 2000cc injectors when you start getting serious with e85,  my fj20 runs the 2000's and ive seen 80% duty cycle on e85. (43psi boost)

Birds: i really do not agree about getting 300kw on 550cc injectors on e85.  I remember running out of flow at 300kw on 740's on several occations.  It also depends what the ethanol content is too.

On 10/3/2019 at 6:43 PM, Birds said:

275rwkw is what we got to with plenty of headroom on an honest dyno. I would probably say 300rwkw is a safe max limit for 555 on E85. Anything more and I would be considering 740 or 1000. The 040 pump can handle a fair bit more power before you’d want to switch to a high flower or twin pump setup.

I did eventually change my fuel hoses (some of them anyway) for E85 compatible ones because the factory ones developed a minor leak - after 25 years running for 6 of those years with a fuel that is harsh on rubber, it’s to be expected.

Hope that helps.

Just to update, my setup is making 280 with the 550's and a Walbro 460 in tank pump. The HKS 2535 is a great street turbo with E85

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...

Hey guys,  

 

Just wondering what price are you paying at the pump for United e85 at the moment?

So bit of a price check,  just let us know your location and how much it costs.

Newcastle NSW - $2.19 

$2.19 seems to be the going rate here in Melbourne ATM too. However the United in Braeside s.e Melbourne suburbs, which has been recently rebranded to Astron fuel has always been cheaper than other United's. 

Last week when I filled up there was $1.97, I just did a fuel spy check and currently showing as $2.06 

 

Braeside Astron VIC $2.06

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/10/2023 at 9:05 AM, Guilt-Toy said:

Hey guys,  

 

Just wondering what price are you paying at the pump for United e85 at the moment?

So bit of a price check,  just let us know your location and how much it costs.

Newcastle NSW - $2.19 

$2.50/L in Perth

  • 2 years later...

Hey Ppl,

 

I am about to tuned my Infiniti Q60 with E-85 and if you can tell me some location where I can top up my car that would be great.

 

But my other question, is E-30 available because this tuned requires less mods parts and any info you can offer would be greatly appreciated too!!

 

 

Edited by wizlb

That probably needs a specific thread....and if you want to run different ethanol mixes you will need the ethanol sensor and wire it into the ECU (which has different requirements depending on the ECU year apparently)

On 13/04/2025 at 8:54 PM, wizlb said:

 

Hey Duncan,

 

The parts have already been made by AMS Performance in Chicago, but I still to confirm if there are in Petrol Station in Sydney that sell E-30.

 

I know there are a few seeling E-85.

 

 

 

No such thing as E30 in Sydney servos

As stated above, flex fuel is your only viable,  and "safe" option I believe

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...