Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 301
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well i guess owning a skyline is my compensation for that then.

DAM, now your really putting your self down, your saying that you have the same thought process as a man, poor you. :cheers:

What men might they be?

If say there was a man driving past me in a ferrari at the same time a woman was going past riding a tricycle.

I know which spectacle I'd be watching.

I would go the ferrari first coz its only going to be a quick glimpse any way and then get a good look at the chick, BUUUT if the chick was swerving all over the place and about to go arse up then i would just go with the chick, you get a perv (possibly a big perv) and a laugh, would be a highlight of the week.

Some are for sure but i defintely think alot of enthusiasts for skylines, rexies, silvias etc are great; Most days when i drive i get people comming up to me in carparks, carwashes, maccas, pertrol stations etc and just saying hi/checking out my car/taking photos.

The ones who are wankers are the guys who rely completely on their car for respect; nevermind their personalities are like donkeys or they are as dumb as a hard cock.

Thats probably because the r34 GTR is still regarded as one of the more enthusiast type cars. Due to their price still around the $50k mark, you'd need to be enthusiast to spend that much on a second hand car instead of a new bmw/audi/merc etc

Hence why other enthusiasts driving in skylines, rexies, silvia's would be more comfortable in approaching you/thumbs up/wave because chances are you wouldn't be an ignorant cock.

With r32/r33's around the $5k-10k any joeshmo can buy one and its much harder to tell the difference between the friendly enthusiast or a takumi wannabe.

Thats probably because the r34 GTR is still regarded as one of the more enthusiast type cars. Due to their price still around the $50k mark, you'd need to be enthusiast to spend that much on a second hand car instead of a new bmw/audi/merc etc

Hence why other enthusiasts driving in skylines, rexies, silvia's would be more comfortable in approaching you/thumbs up/wave because chances are you wouldn't be an ignorant cock.

With r32/r33's around the $5k-10k any joeshmo can buy one and its much harder to tell the difference between the friendly enthusiast or a takumi wannabe.

Good point about the r34 gtr, when i was shopping for a new car to buy i didnt really want a second hand car but whats great about the r34 gtr is that all parts are quite avaliable! for instance, i was going to get a new s2000 for 76ish k but for 65k i got the vspec2 and if something goes, including the engine a rebuild of 10k will suffice and still be cheaper than the s2k

So far its the best choice i have made and there are no shortage of good workshops in vic/nsw etc

Like i always say, your only a loser if you think your car makes up for other weak points in your life eg: intelligence, personality, looks

Unfortunately there are quite a few sportscar drivers that are ugly as a herpes lesion and as dumb as a circumsised foreskin.

Thats probably because the r34 GTR is still regarded as one of the more enthusiast type cars. Due to their price still around the $50k mark, you'd need to be enthusiast to spend that much on a second hand car instead of a new bmw/audi/merc etc

Hence why other enthusiasts driving in skylines, rexies, silvia's would be more comfortable in approaching you/thumbs up/wave because chances are you wouldn't be an ignorant cock.

With r32/r33's around the $5k-10k any joeshmo can buy one and its much harder to tell the difference between the friendly enthusiast or a takumi wannabe.

Bingo!

Good point about the r34 gtr, when i was shopping for a new car to buy i didnt really want a second hand car but whats great about the r34 gtr is that all parts are quite avaliable! for instance, i was going to get a new s2000 for 76ish k but for 65k i got the vspec2 and if something goes, including the engine a rebuild of 10k will suffice and still be cheaper than the s2k

So far its the best choice i have made and there are no shortage of good workshops in vic/nsw etc

Like i always say, your only a loser if you think your car makes up for other weak points in your life eg: intelligence, personality, looks

Unfortunately there are quite a few sportscar drivers that are ugly as a herpes lesion and as dumb as a circumsised foreskin.

2x Bingo!

Close thread.

its all because of the fast and the furious... idiots buy skylines because they are "cool", they dont know why they are "cool" just that they are.... then they wack on a pod, cannon, and gay chrome wheels with pathetic dish and offset and a massive bov... and drive like a goon.

its all because of the fast and the furious... idiots buy skylines because they are "cool", they dont know why they are "cool" just that they are.... then they wack on a pod, cannon, and gay chrome wheels with pathetic dish and offset and a massive bov... and drive like a goon.

I hate that movie and it's sequels.

They are preachers of rice.

Well I wave to other skyline drivers, and sometimes I get a response in the '33. When I have driven hot rods/muscle cars when I wave to other drivers I get a response just about every single time. Its just a culture difference.

To the second thing that has come up in this thread (RX7's), I have owned a series 2 for a lengthy period of time and driven an FC turbo extensively. In their terms of ownership both needed engine rebuilds (within 50,000kms of purchase) and I knew their history. Liked the sound and the power delivery. Disliked the community and reliability. To those that say they can be consistently reliable, well the rule of thumb is a rotary needs a rebuild twice as often as a piston engine. I'm not picking a fight its just the truth - I have nothing against rotary powered cars.

Regardless, a true automotive performance enthusiast likes all cars no matter what the make or model as long as it delivers the goods where it counts - on the road.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...