Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also kasko, that result you were comparing your car to could be on a hub dyno and i think birds' result could have been a hub dyno as well, so keep that in mind.

The only true comparison would be to get the all on the same dyno. I wouldn't be worried too much about it to be honest

Edited by Mitcho_7

Bird's result was from an roller dyno and so's Peters. could be the tuner is conservative, different dyno, differences in the exhaust, cooler, or what ever it might be. Since my car's off the road I'll organize photos post up some progresses of the Turbocharged Kia sportage with high roll over risk project that we are half way through for bit of laughter.

just a quick question are do you guys use bellmouth or split front pipes?

This is my justification, if split dumps produced more power and better boost response, why would manufacturers produce bell mouth dumps?

Bellmouth = bigger = more flow.

Pretty simple. Sick of all this merging the gasses bullshit, either go bellmouth or man up and go the external gate. :)

Bellmouth = bigger = more flow.

Pretty simple. Sick of all this merging the gasses bullshit, either go bellmouth or man up and go the external gate. :)

Or both!? :woot:

Most splits are shit and cause more problems than they solve with wastegates jamming etc. Even if you get one to work properly it's purely a wank factor thing; imitation screamer pipe that sounds like ass. Bellmouth = don't look back.

My 258rwkw was on a roller dyno at Race Pace who certainly aren't known for having a happy dyno.

Peter's full boost at 3250 got me confused though...mine happens at around 3600-3700. I have a more restrictive setup with my catted exhaust and lack of a 3 inch metal intake, but I wouldn't think the response difference would be that great...unless you have an updated SS1PU? :S

Most splits are shit and cause more problems than they solve with wastegates jamming etc. Even if you get one to work properly it's purely a wank factor thing; imitation screamer pipe that sounds like ass. Bellmouth = don't look back.

Not all split dumps are vent to atmo.

cheers guys, ive had my car for about 8 months now and have done suspension etc so just starting to look at adding power, amperformance here in sa do very impressive looking split front pipes and was looking at getting one but he makes them in such a way that i dont think they would work with the hiflow which lead me to wonder if anyone was running one. will look into it more but atleast you guys have given me insight into which front pipe i should be looking at. :)

intake pipe makes abit of differences to response. here's one more result from a customer's R34 skyline running SS1PU. made 255rwkws @ 16psi with 2psi creep mid range. This car's also runs a return flow cooler that get abit hot. With a proper cooler at 20psi it should be getting pretty close result as my test car.

There has been a recent FNT angle update, might affect tinny bit in response but not power wise.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

afr.jpg

intake pipe makes abit of differences to response. here's one more result from a customer's R34 skyline running SS1PU. made 255rwkws @ 16psi with 2psi creep mid range. This car's also runs a return flow cooler that get abit hot. With a proper cooler at 20psi it should be getting pretty close result as my test car.

There has been a recent FNT angle update, might affect tinny bit in response but not power wise.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

afr.jpg

When will the FNT update be available Stao? I've been waiting for your next development to order a turbo so this might be good enough to make my wallet a bit lighter :)

Here's the interesting part...despite my full boost not coming on until a bit later...my power band is basically the same as Peter's and the above customer's...I make the same power at the same RPM points?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...