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Some updates:

The manifold finally came back from Brae auto fab:

manifold1.jpg.jpg

and it will be running on a 50mm external gate:

manifold2.jpg.jpg

This is still a bolton manifold that holds a turbocharger in stock position. How ever I'm going to wait for the later and cheaper manifold prototype that said to be complete on Monday.

The head gasket also shown up. how ever it isn't 1.1mm as what the seller claim to be. 0.051 of an inch calculates to be 1.3mm.

gasket.jpg.jpg

any one had experiences with 1.3mm head gaskets? or I'm just going to install another stock gasket back in. hopefully it will be back on the road towards the end of next week.

I'm keen to see what the SS2 would do at its full potential, on that setup, then follow it by an updated version of the SS3 now has a different wheel curvature, which I'm hopping to hit some where close to the 400rwkws mark with similar response as the SS2.

atr43ss3.jpg.jpg

By the way SS1PU is now available in a SR20det bolton form. A trail with customers stock S13 SR20det have reported a final figure of 270rwkws @ 17psi using 260 duration cams on pump 98 responsively. I will pickup and post the dyno read out coming week.

1.3mm is pretty thick, thats some thing been used to de-comp a NA motor. running that on your engine will increase turbo lag, how ever probably allowing more top end power. I would use it if its for me own car, but if you run that on a test car then your results would be different to a normal Rb25det. So my opinion is stock head gasket.

^^ depends how much the head has been skimmed too

Stao how long have you been making the comp wheels with Hypergear written on them?

Have you thought of bending/modifying actuator brackets so the actuator sits flush and doesn't need washers behind it?

Updates are looking good Stao

How different is the next manifold design to the one shown? Very interested in a int gated manifold and SS2.5 or SS2 when this latest bunch of design is done :)

Will keep a close eye on this thread

The next manifold is going to be a log manifold. Same as stock manifold except the tubing size will be larger. It will also have a external gate port welded on top so it allows external wastegating.

I can also make plugs that seals the screamer pipe, the whole point is it can be used internally gated for road and externally gated for tracks. The current SS2 is one of the best turbos to drive on road. I'm hopping to see 370rwkws on it with the new setup.

On the same time Externally gated SS2 is cheaper to make, so the extra money can be used for a plumb back system.

The next manifold is going to be a log manifold. Same as stock manifold except the tubing size will be larger. It will also have a external gate port welded on top so it allows external wastegating.

I can also make plugs that seals the screamer pipe, the whole point is it can be used internally gated for road and externally gated for tracks. The current SS2 is one of the best turbos to drive on road. I'm hopping to see 370rwkws on it with the new setup.

On the same time Externally gated SS2 is cheaper to make, so the extra money can be used for a plumb back system.

Will the new manifolds be a bit like that HKS manifold you have for sale on eBay?

Edited by pipster11

1 would think so

Could be onto a winner with that one!!! Hypergear manifold/Turbo/ext wastegate/dump combo! Everything for the hot side in one box :-)

Could be onto a winner with that one!!! Hypergear manifold/Turbo/ext wastegate/dump combo! Everything for the hot side in one box :-)

I would be all over that kit. No need to move the car on a tow truck to a fabricator.

The over all structure would be very similar to the HKS manifold as it is also an log manifold in a twin pulse. How ever the HKS does not bolton, I gave up on installation, its almost impossible to fit unless the engine is out. Now it ended up on ebay.

The manifold we are making is a twin pulse bolton manifold. by not making a Nissan OEM flange I save $275. that money is probably just enough for a 4inch front pipe to factory cat position. So its going to be a full kit once its complete. If it works well I think that I can develop a turbo to suit that setup feeding E85 fuel, possibly 320rwkws on stock response or better.

any chance of doing a similar manifold for other engines?

eg 1JZ/2JZ both non-vvti and the late vvti versions, RB26 etc

the cast iron single turbo 2JZ manifolds sell well in the states, but nothing for 1J's

The manifold is designed at a simple form that doesn't require lots of man hours. Its going to be a cheap bolton package, and I believe it can increase power level substantially working with all std high flowed turbos.

what are the manifolds made of Stao? and would it be worth having one for an ATR43G3 internal gate? i am still worried about all that extra heat being generated near ports 5 and 6. well, if these are cheap enough and use factory turbo positioning, i will probably buy one.

Stao can you PM me the SR20 SS1PU result? that is the results I am looking for.

You can send a message to Abe2 for some feedbacks, it is currently on his 180sx. I will be seeing Trent for it once my car's back together for further tuning.

what are the manifolds made of Stao? and would it be worth having one for an ATR43G3 internal gate? i am still worried about all that extra heat being generated near ports 5 and 6. well, if these are cheap enough and use factory turbo positioning, i will probably buy one.

The manifold are made from steam pipe. same material used on mine as well as other reputable manifold workshops. On previous discussion I've had with Brae is to relocate the turbo flange 15mms forward leaving extra room for cyc 4,5,6. Its a small change, shouldn't cause much installation issues, while stock water line and oil drain can be reused.

The factory manifold crushes the pulse that connects to the rear 3 cycs, I'm not keen on following that design.

just so you know, my actuator is touching the strut tower already and it could use 5mm atleast so it clears. so might need to look into moving the actuator in closer to the turbo if you were to move that flange out more.

that would get rid of the spacer plate also would it? i think it was 15mm.

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