Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For $500 you'd want to be ale to demonstrate a significant improvement in power and/or response. Exactly what "significant" is is up to you to advertise and the consumer to decide if it's worth $500.

As he said himself, the benefit was less than that of a china manifold and he wont be providing that option to people.

Without a side by side comparison against a stock manifold, Stao will struggle to sell any.

"It performs nearly as well as a no name China manifold" isn't a satisfactory response to "what benefits can I expect above and beyond my current stock manifold?"

There is too much variation between "China' manifolds to be able to use "them" as a benchmark. Stock is the only acceptable benchmark.

Without a side by side comparison against a stock manifold, Stao will struggle to sell any.

"It performs nearly as well as a no name China manifold" isn't a satisfactory response to "what benefits can I expect above and beyond my current stock manifold?"

There is too much variation between "China' manifolds to be able to use "them" as a benchmark. Stock is the only acceptable benchmark.

Not too sure what you're trying to achieve? He did say he's not selling them because there were no substantial gains.

manifoldfront.JPG

manifoldrear.JPG

In car:

incar.JPG

Above is a China manifold, the one that I've had before Brae's manifold. and it actually worked exceptionally well and I've made 330rwkws of it based on a G3 on pump 98. This manifold is only $350 to get from China. It fits on stock position and bolt the turbocharger on factory position. This might be some thing I will be looking into in near future.

Well that level of gain Its not worth the $500, a cheap china manifold would've gained better result. I won't be providing that service.

Without a side by side comparison against a stock manifold, Stao will struggle to sell any.

"It performs nearly as well as a no name China manifold" isn't a satisfactory response to "what benefits can I expect above and beyond my current stock manifold?"

There is too much variation between "China' manifolds to be able to use "them" as a benchmark. Stock is the only acceptable benchmark.

If you open your eyes, you will see that his exact words were that a china manifold will produce a better result and that the $500 outlay is not worth the gains. Stao has clearly said he WILL NOT be selling those manifolds.

I suggest that you apologise to Stao, because you are clearly coming off rude and it is really uncalled for. Stao built that manifold for the benefit of the SAU community, and he himself admitted it cost too much for the benefit it gave.

Without a side by side comparison against a stock manifold, Stao will struggle to sell any.

"It performs nearly as well as a no name China manifold" isn't a satisfactory response to "what benefits can I expect above and beyond my current stock manifold?"

There is too much variation between "China' manifolds to be able to use "them" as a benchmark. Stock is the only acceptable benchmark.

Dude are you trying to be a deadset potato here?

If you open your eyes, you will see that his exact words were that a china manifold will produce a better result and that the $500 outlay is not worth the gains. Stao has clearly said he WILL NOT be selling those manifolds.

I suggest that you apologise to Stao, because you are clearly coming off rude and it is really uncalled for. Stao built that manifold for the benefit of the SAU community, and he himself admitted it cost too much for the benefit it gave.

Ok, I miss-understood.

I wasn't having a go at Stao, I'm a big fan of his work. I though he was saying it's not a worthy upgrade from a China manifold which I then assumed it was still on the cards for a stock upgrade.

There was a little bit lost in translation.

Dude are you trying to be a deadset potato here?

Settle on, it was a simple miss-understanding.

No need to start throwing insults.

Stao do you make or could recommend something for 4.2l diesel landcruiser?

I would use a ATR28G2 in a .86 rear housing.

and for the link earlier it appears to be the same manifold. Mine has been coated before I bought it, it was from a guy in Aus.

Ok, I miss-understood.

I wasn't having a go at Stao, I'm a big fan of his work. I though he was saying it's not a worthy upgrade from a China manifold which I then assumed it was still on the cards for a stock upgrade.

There was a little bit lost in translation.

Since its going to take another 4 hours to re-install the brae manifold. I might do further evaluation.

Using stock manifold, car made a one time maximum of 303rwkws with ATR43G3 none FNT turbo on pump 98. I will be install the same turbocharger back on and do one more run. Based on that I should be able to get the exact amount of gain if there is any.

Plus I've already got the result with the same turbocharger running the China manifold, so we can compare against all three.

Hey did you do anymore on the internally gated kando TD06? or did I just miss the discussion.

If it worked as well as internally gated garrets you would be onto a real winner.

I dont think he did an internal gate TD06, that would be interesting.

Into one of his RB specific housings, might sell well with the billet 20g wheel.

Stao you should set one up just to see. Im sure that you are capable of profiling the housing to suit, after all your FNT experience!

I think Trent had few internally gated runs and they were no good. Had a look at some of the internally gated SL2 and even T518z on NS and they are no where near what they are externally gated. They are not some thing made to internal gate.

besides all the Gx, SS1PU and SS2 units works well enough on ever manifold internally or externally gated, not much point re-engineer some thing's already been done.

But having said that I will drop the billet TD06 into .82 type B rear for curiosity sake when I have some spare time. Or let me now if any of yous would wish to trail.

Some updates for the externally gated series:

Great news as I've managed to find few suppliers whom can produce TD06, and T518Z housing and turbine wheel castings. We will have some of those housings brought in and finalize machinery work locally. I will also invest some time in making up CNC drawings for billet compressor wheels.

By the end of this month we should have billet version of both TD05H 18G and TD06SL2 20Gs in T518z (T28) housings, TD06 20 and 25G in both 8cm and 10cm in T3x turbine housings.

Price will stay competitive against Taiwanese producers, we will use our FNT turbine setups as well as custom wheel profiles archiving greater response with higher power level. All turbochargers will be made to order in strict time bases, great support and customer services as always, and we won't be blocking any one on ebay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...