Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah man Remember

Yavuz dyno is very conservative when I had 253rwkw it pulled trap speeds of 121mph

I'll come down and race ya!!!

haha game on! I'll let you know when im heading down.

The SS2 would be a very good turbo reaching close to the maximum of capacity of stock cam shaft. I'm looking to upgrade cams for the maximum capacity of some larger frame turbochargers that we build.

I'm looking at the Tomei Pon cams and the HKS in256/ex264 cams. Can any one whom used them share some experience in terms power / response behavior?

I've got poncams in mine, power and response are currently pretty much on par with your results with the G3, though I suspect I have cam timing issues holding me back so can't really draw any conclusions on the cams yet. They certainly feel ALOT better than the stock ones did, but given I changed plenum, ecu, cams AND tuner all at the same time; I guess that doesn't count.

I've got poncams in mine, power and response are currently pretty much on par with your results with the G3, though I suspect I have cam timing issues holding me back so can't really draw any conclusions on the cams yet. They certainly feel ALOT better than the stock ones did, but given I changed plenum, ecu, cams AND tuner all at the same time; I guess that doesn't count.

Hurry up and dial em in :whistling:

I gained tonnes of response

That's pretty impressive for a bush core Stao, how does the brass help over the bronze?

The materials makes no differences. its about how and where the oil is dispatched and delivered. I'm working on another set of brass bearings that can possibly spin them selves with oil entry.

With the Pon cams I thought they are drop in which don't requires dialing?

Eh, not driving the car in this heat. New seats haven't arrived yet either, so I can't drive it at the moment anyway. I'll get it done sometime :)

And Stao, they are, but I did mine at the same time as removing the head. Head was decked when I had it reconditioned, so I lost some deck height. Wouldn't have thought it enough to throw off my cam timing, but it's a question mark so need to check timing and make sure.

Edited by Hanaldo

With the Pon cams I thought they are drop in which don't requires dialing?

My head has been skimmed a few times so was necessary. Unopened engine would be fine

What do cams do?

Beef up mid range or up top?

Tomei Poncams 256/256 should give a gain over the entire powerband (with an aftermarket turbo mostly).

If you went 264 - 272 you would then be trading low range power for top end.

Thanks for the response. Since most people are on stock cams. I will run through the evaluations on the Billet TDxx series before I switch cams.

Also I've built this last week for a customer that required anti surge sound regardless of power or response. lol. So I've tabbed some threads and made custom plugs for this housing. Anti surging now becomes selective.

Anti surging ports open:

normal.JPG

Anti surging ports blocked:

pluged2.JPG

Looks good Stao :)

Hopefully I will have results from the ceramic ss2 inside the next few months. Work is getting in the way at the moment but my engine is just about done

my SR SS1PU is at unigroup now.

am going to give them a call with some final instructions for how id like my powerband to fall so i can sit back and wait for the results.

possibly going to have to trade some of my top end for response though as im not running VCT. will still be a good indication for S13 type SR owners.

My SR SS1PU tune is now complete. Result was 235rwkw on 98 in todays 45 degree heat, 18psi of boost.

Unigroup noted the tune has been pegged back a little more than normal as the motor is brand new (no road time) and will be used for track only duties over the next 12 months.

They state it reached 248 with an extra degree of timing but chose not to push it because of the above mentioned factors, told me to bring it back once its done some actual road time and they can stretch it further but also mentioned its probably not going to be that noticeable.

Not bad for a 45 degree day, Im sure it will be a rocket. Thanks for the great turbo Stao.

Thanks for the feedback. Not bad for 45 degrees day, under a factory it would be oven baking. That affects the cooler's ability to heat sink. Also well, need more boost, still missing 6psi. :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...