Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Felt that on the way back. the car skits heavily to one side. He did mention about welding them together. or not sure if there is any one whom can modify stock diff to make them stronger. Alternatively I was thinking buying a kaaz diff. not sure which one is better to get 1.5 or 2 way? It is a road car and I do drive a fare distance testing new turbos, I still want it to handle smoothly on road.

1 way diff tightens on acceleration, 1.5 way tightens on acceleration and 50% on decel, and 2 way tightens on acceleration and deceleration. So unless you plan on drifting the car, no need to have a diff that locks fully on decel.

I don't drift this car. its mainly for street, and will be on quarters often now. I'm planing to drop in a set of pon cames and pumping it to about 450rwkws mark. Sorry I'm really a noob when comes on the diff. I will likely be buying a kaaz diff, So which one better for my application? the 1 way, 1.5 or 2 way.

Do Kaaz make a 1 way diff? If you're gonna stick with 1 way, just re shim the stock diff. Otherwise 1.5 way will be more than enough, a 2 way won't help you on the strip.

Hmm, after a bit of reading I gather shimming is much like welding, and effectively makes the diff a 2 way. Hadn't realised this. I'd just go for a stronger 1 way if anyone does them, otherwise a 1.5 way.

I know plenty of people who have run shimmed diffs for year with no problems. How long the shims last is dependant on the size you put in. That said they aren't running down the strip with 400kw on a set of sticky MT's.

Would someone slap me over the head. This whole time I've been saying 2 way when I actually meant 1 way or 1.5 way. Been having blonde moments of late haha.

I've uploaded footages for all good runs out of the day.

There are number of interesting cars there yesterday, I will publish the video after further uploading completes.

Don't shim the diff.

I put a .8mm shim in mine and its disgustingly tight... But the sad part if its just meshing the spider gears together, and making it jam at low speeds. The actual LSD coupling has little to no ability to be preloaded in the grand scheme of things. A pointless mod causing only discomfort IMHO.

Me? No.

Still got the shimmed diff which feels uber tight when you're cruising and has more or less the same LSD effect it had prior when you jump on it.

shimming was my first suggestion or 2-way / welding.

It needs some cradle locks too as the tramp was bad enough to knock it out of gear on numerous occasions.

i reckon a line lock would also allow better warm up burnout as the car labors too much in 2nd with the MT's

i will wire up the clutch switch so we can dial in some retard on the line and produce a bit of boost..

when you put 3+mm of total shim in there you need to add a thicker backlash shim/washer, mine has a bit of backlash play at low speeds as i still havent sorted that out. although mine is pretty much a shimmed locker so by fair the most cheap and reliable set up over a grenade of a weldy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I sense an out of control build thread coming up lololol. That 450kW goal will end up being 600 to 700kW LOL.
    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
×
×
  • Create New...