Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From memory it was about 5k difference.  The box themselfs were similar, but you had to buy more bits for the Hollinger like a flatshift gearstick, bell housing etc, which is either included with the Samsonas or you can use a cheap Nissan auto bellhousing.

The Sainz bar is the vertical(ish) brace for the front leg. The bend in the front leg makes them weaker so they put the extra bar in there to help in roll overs. They're great for strength but I've got deep seats with big wings in mind and it's an ordeal for my partner in crime to get out. He's 6'2" and 120kg though....

Thanks for the info on the Samsonas, I'll contact them and get an actual price.

  • 1 month later...

What's your plan to demonstrate the build date of your car Ben? Given that the plates don't have the actual build date on them is it acceptable to quote a website as proof of manufacturing date?

My chassis number is in the 1900's so it's well and truly in the first production run but I'm a bit unclear on what constitutes 'proof' of the manufacturing dates.

Car is coming along, the body work is tidied up and painted.  I'll be able to start throwing things back into it now.

 

You can get the build date from putting the vin into Nissan Fast or an online decoder. Mark Perry the Targa CEO used to import and race R32 Skylines, so he knows them inside out and the vin's etc.  I'm pretty sure by the late 80s you could find out all the details of a car from it's vin.  I think mine is July 89.

20220320_153711.JPG

  • Like 2

Thanks mate, I'll have a look at Fast.

Looking good, white is an excellent choice. Mine is black and you can't see shit in the engine bay.

No tower legs on the cage? Your cages seem to have massive braces between the main hoop and the front leg, how do you go getting the seats in there? It certainly looks like a stronger option in the case of a roll over, I don't see any cages like that over here.

Coming to Victoria for any events? I'm doing reliability testing (sprints) at the moment for new engine and dry sump but might get to Snowy River or GTR later this year if I get my shit together. 

I just didn't have time to go through to the towers. It woul have taken longer to make the cage and then probably would need setup changes.  At least I know i can just put the settings from the old shell in and it will feel the same.  With the wheel removed it's not to bad to get in and out of, you work a process out pretty quick.

I did the Australian Tarmac Championship in 2017, so am aiming to get back there to do some more evetnts.  Espesially since the Targa events are getting restricted.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Well Targa was started and cancelled.

We managed to make the start, I had a shit time tryig to get the engine from the machine shop in time.  I did get the engine at the 11th hour and then found there was no compression on cylinder 1 and 6.  I'll get round to looking into it properly in a few weeks to find what the issue is.  But I was able to borrow a spare standard RB20 to run the event on.

in the end it didn't count for much as the event was cancelled.  But here is incar from the first time the car was driven at speed.

 

 

  • Like 3

How were you going with it before it was cancelled?

Great effort to make it to the event, hopefully its not the last competitive one.
Been interesting watching all the commentary/opinions on facenovel. 

Had some issues on day 2 that dropped us out of contention, but after hearing about the fatality in the afternoon we decided not to get the car ready for day 3, as we knew how much Motorsports Aus hates tarmac rally and would cancel it at any opertunity.

I didn't have the correct config loaded for the gear sensor, I fixed it that night.

There isn't a whole lot known about what happened.  A lotus came off on Mt Roland and the drivers was killed, looks like rallysafe didn't alert the cars behind of the Lotus being off the road, as 6 cars drove past (7th stopped). Same thing happened last year when the bloke drowned, 50 cars drove past and had no idea a car was off.

  • Sad 1

I hope they don't cancel the Targa, but at the same time I hope there are added safety measures such as armcos, etc. to reduce the risk of tragedies.

The media and non motor enthusiasts will do anything to shut it down, however what they don't know is motorsports brings heaps of money into the economy.

 

Anyhow, car looks like great fun to drive - even on a stock motor. Kudos to you for not raising your hand in the air like you're conducing a symphony between gear changes :D 

Seems like that is a very common thing to do now with the roll racing/drag racing fellas. Pull a gear, raise your hand like you're requesting for a crescendo LOL.

  • Haha 1
On 5/3/2022 at 5:45 PM, Komdotkom said:

Do you reckon Motorsport Australia will try and dial the rules back a bit to slow the cars down? Or will they just go back to AASA?

New sporting & technical Regs will be out in January so will see. I suspect a lot of the classic GT cars will have they wings clipped. They have already capped speed at 200kph but it how fast the top cars get there & maintain it is one issue I see. At Targa GBR last year there were lots of RTZ to slow us down and to avoid cars jumping crests too. Most drivers also don't do much driving throughout the year.

I wonder if Rallysafe is testing their gear in these locations as seems to be a lot of drop outs. Did they do any more detailed briefing on rallysafe?

Hey Ben I heard you added an inspection hole for the gearbox internals, any idea what actually happened?

Shame about the engine and having no time to shake the new car down, it looked Ok in that Georgetown vid.

Targa seem to think they will be running next year, I guess a lot may depend on what actually happened.

On 03/05/2022 at 6:13 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

New sporting & technical Regs will be out in January so will see. I suspect a lot of the classic GT cars will have they wings clipped. They have already capped speed at 200kph but it how fast the top cars get there & maintain it is one issue I see. At Targa GBR last year there were lots of RTZ to slow us down and to avoid cars jumping crests too. Most drivers also don't do much driving throughout the year.

I wonder if Rallysafe is testing their gear in these locations as seems to be a lot of drop outs. Did they do any more detailed briefing on rallysafe?

This is my single biggest issue with tarmac rally, the rules change far too often; it's a great way to alienate competitors. Perhaps I've got a different perspective because most of the racers I know are in NC or IPRA and rule changes seldom happen, but it gives people certainty about where they are going and the cars they are building. I'm certainly not saying these categories have the rules correct, IPRA in particular, but given the cost of competitive vehicle construction to a reasonable standard nobody wants to re-build a car to keep up with regular rule changes.

 

  • Like 1
On 5/3/2022 at 5:45 PM, Komdotkom said:

Do you reckon Motorsport Australia will try and dial the rules back a bit to slow the cars down? Or will they just go back to AASA?

No idea at this stage.  I would like for them to go back to AASA.  The 200k limit is a joke, as all the incidents have been well under 200k.  This year was the first time I was checking my speedo on a stage, as I don't fully trust that the rev limiter won't overrun.

 

On 5/3/2022 at 6:13 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

New sporting & technical Regs will be out in January so will see. I suspect a lot of the classic GT cars will have they wings clipped. They have already capped speed at 200kph but it how fast the top cars get there & maintain it is one issue I see. At Targa GBR last year there were lots of RTZ to slow us down and to avoid cars jumping crests too. Most drivers also don't do much driving throughout the year.

I wonder if Rallysafe is testing their gear in these locations as seems to be a lot of drop outs. Did they do any more detailed briefing on rallysafe?

The problem is more when a car comes off the road that the GPS can't get a signal out cause the car is upsidedown or the antenna has been ripped off.  It then relys on car to car comunication, which can also fail depending on distance from the road and antenna damage.  I think there needs to be a failsafe that if a unit stops talking back to HQ that a stop and look for car instruction is sent to following cars at the last known location.  There is probably better ways, but the discussion needs to be had.

On 5/3/2022 at 8:08 PM, Duncan said:

Hey Ben I heard you added an inspection hole for the gearbox internals, any idea what actually happened?

Shame about the engine and having no time to shake the new car down, it looked Ok in that Georgetown vid.

Targa seem to think they will be running next year, I guess a lot may depend on what actually happened.

When the supplier tell you to put loctight on the bolts that join the box and bellhouse you should listen to them.  Bolts came out and jammed the flywheel then went out of th side of the bellhouse, not the box thankfully. We had the stuff to put the std box back in if the event had continued.

The furture will be interesting, as lots of people were running this year just cause of the 30th and wern't planning on running next year because of the restrictions.  There is also rumbelings going on in the background that there is legal action happening about the tribunal last year

Edited by sav man
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...