Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The local cars all run series 1 doors, which are 10kg lighter than series 2 doors (no intrusion bars). For Targa you really need working windows, as your passing things in and out of them at the start and finish of the stages

It's going to be an interesting job cutting out my intrusion bars without damaging the paint. I'm thinking its about time I bought a small air cutter and using my dremel.

Really didn't do a lot of work on the car this weekend,,,just mainly cleaning shit up,,,changed these top rear arm bolts to normal bolts,,,putting the wheels back on and hoping when I got the trailer built I measured properly and Cheryl fits,,,I was very nervous,,,if she didn't fit a new trailer would have to be bought. Oh I've been using the trailer as storage so I had to un-pack it in 40 degree heat,,,I'm quessing it was 50 + in the trailer. Thankfully she fitted but only just. I now need to make some more anchor points as the Radicals ones are in the wrong place.

post-29-0-33737900-1293950315_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-10950200-1293951129_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-72507200-1293951199_thumb.jpg

Raceworx Marky has donoted me an rb25 cylinder head which has some port work done and AN fitting welded on to the rocker covers from an rb30 engine he bought. Cool,,,I now have one I can play with before dry sumping her.

post-29-0-13626900-1293952905_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-41282100-1293952950_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-35381500-1293952976_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-62148200-1293952999_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-34398200-1293953025_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

Neil, I had a quick flick through the regs for TT that were just recently posted, you're planning to run in Modern Modified Sport yes?

I'd love to take a punt at something like that, but I'm concerned about having to run the standard turbo charger... I'm not a fan of eating rear exhaust wheels... :(

Are you still going to be sticking with the stock turbo?

it only says stock turbo housing....not stock turbo. I'm sure they can get a reasonable result out of squeezing a ball bearing centre and big wheels in a standard housing.

Touche...

Reading those regs, is making me very happy to not have put the money into mine to build it back again for track work yet... There's a million things I need to change if I wanna do TT... :(

Matt,,,I have 3 choices on turbo's.

1/ Stock as a rock

2/ Stock high-flowed

3/ Cheat and use a GTT which looks the same on the outside but as you know bigger on the inside.

Think I'll go with number 2.

Yea Ryan,,,a 2nd head is very cool,,,now I have something to play with,,,and I will be playing,,,.

All this stuff is cool,,but what I actually need is the heated front screen. Richard are you reading this post.

Cheers

Neil.

Thanks heaps mate for the pics and explanation,,,will come in very handy,,,but for the life of me I still can't work out why someone went to so much trouble. Heres pics of what Duncan removed.

post-29-1290674454_thumb.jpg

post-29-1290674472_thumb.jpg

post-29-1290674482_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

Well it turns out that this harness is a factory accessory. It's part of a kit called "light reduce" that was fitted to my car in Japan. I have no idea what it does,,but its gone now.Seems Cheryl was highly optioned.

Matt,,,I have 3 choices on turbo's.

1/ Stock as a rock

2/ Stock high-flowed

3/ Cheat and use a GTT which looks the same on the outside but as you know bigger on the inside.

Think I'll go with number 2.

Yea Ryan,,,a 2nd head is very cool,,,now I have something to play with,,,and I will be playing,,,.

All this stuff is cool,,but what I actually need is the heated front screen. Richard are you reading this post.

Cheers

Neil.

to the trained eye the gtt turbo is easily picked. the exhaust housing is notcibly bigger. mainly wider there it meets the flange.

ive had experiance running stock r32 33 34 turbos and hiflow 33 and 32 turbos. the r34 turbo in stock form shits all over the r33 turbo. ive used them back to back. ive also used r32 to r33 back to back and im tempted to go back to r32 in the aplication its on.

im sure the r33 hiflow will be good but make sure you do some research on who to get to do it. not every hiflow is the same from my experiance. and throwing the biggest wheels in doesnt make for the best combination.

come to think of it i have had experiance with my team mates drift car that ran a hiflowed r33 turbo on his r33. the most they could squez out of it was 240ish on pump fuel. which can almost be achived with a stock neo turbo on an rb25 with less boost, less lag, less cost and less strain on the engine.

im sure you will get the right one but if you want some names of companies i do and dont recomend. PM me.

Neil here is all the info you should need regarding a heated screen. Quoted from a few emails, im sure if you give Del a call and speak directly with him about getting an R33 screen or two he'll be more than helpful.

if you fail to get in contact with him via the contacts there ill pass on his other details.

Here's some basic info :

These are obviously laminated, using full light green tint glass ( to current European standards ) have multiple zig zag micro wires up and down. Although you can see these, visibility is normal, they are also ear marked so legal for ADR ( Not that that matters for racing )

I'm having these made in the UK by a well known manufacturer ( Trading for 14 years ) who is contracted to a number of kit car manufactures for their screen supply, and also some popular OEM.

Costs landed will be $475 - $495 depending on exchange rates.

If I can get firm orders for more than eight of one type I could supply these for $465 irrespective of exchange rates, due to quantity pricings with the manufacturer, however at this stage there's not those quantities being ordered.

Not sure how I can assist with invoicing and GST etc yet, as I closed my business a while ago.

Should anyone be interested don't hesitate to contact me .... I will need a small deposit to secure prior to placing the order at $150.

This can be paid with either cheque, BT, or PayPal.

If I am unable to supply the screens within a given time frame ( Yours ) due to any issues out of my control i.e strikes or customs hold ups etc, and this genuinely creates a problem for you. I am happy to return you deposit in full, but if just a change of mind on your behalf happens the deposit is non refundable .... Sorry

However I'm given a manufacturing time and can only give my word on someone elses.

May also be able to supply other vehicles subject to availability but this will depend on the manufacturer having patterns for the vehicle requested. So if you have thought about it and may be interested

kindly advise and I'll see what can be done ....

Contacts : [email protected]

02 4701 6498

The delivery date is expected to be approx first week in Feb subject to any hold ups as mentioned, but unlikely as by that time things should be back to normal after the Christmas break.

I am bringing in a GTR 32 screen or three so maybe your old cars new owner may want one ? Jeff Branstrater may also have one too, but this depends on if he is able to shift his last car .... Dave Loftus is also up for one for his little Starlet IP car etc.

I am already bringing one for Geoff Fear at SSS who had the Improved Production GTR 32, but now runs a N14 which is the same as the GTi-R

Should this be up your street you are welcome to place an order for one for your GTi-R if you choose ?

If I have at least two to supply I will carry a spare but it will not be for sale once arrived but only held for anyone who has already purchased one in this order .... I feel that's a fair way to do this.

Feel free to call me if you choose as I need to secure all deposits with in 10 - 15 days from now to avoid dissapointments with delivery times promised.

I have requested a number of things from the technical guru within the company to clarify data of the screens and received them just now while on the phone to them i.e. what actual size are the Micro wires in the heating element banks installed in the screens on each side ( 17 - 22 microns depending on model of car ), do they go right across the screens to the edges, ( very close to the sides ) the heat up / defrost time in seconds or minutes in adverse conditions, ( I'm told something like 2 mins for full vision if covered in heavy frost :shock: ) but I was half asleep at 3 am when I called !

Amps required while in use ( Approx 12 - 15 amps while in use ~ Example below on the RX7 12.2 amp) relay required ?( Up to the individual as when installed in current model road going Ford Europe models, they are obviously computer controlled ) manufacturing / lead times upon payment etc .... ( To complete order in 3 - weeks after receipt of payment in full ) Thus my concerns who eles will cancel that hasn't already.

Anyway Brad .... See how you go

CheeRS .... Del

Damo,,,I was sort of hoping you might pipe up about the turbo,,,thanks mate. I was going to just pm you and ask but I thought that a little rude. An invite to do so is very nice,,,Thanks.

Brad,,,nice work tiger on the front screen,,,currectly we have interest in 2 x R33's and Duncan's interest in an R32. I might have interest in another R32,,,but not confirmed yet. We can play the group buy thing if you want,,,but it would be your baby,,,not mine. We would have to assume Richards contact is the same contact,,,Yes???. General group buy section,,,No,,,motorsport section,,,absolutely.

The tank I'll have tiger,,,why oh why you don't have the mounting bracket is a pain though.

Thats enough typing for now,,,I need to clean my finger nails again,,,bloody work tomorrow. BMW clients might start to think I work on cars.

Cheers

Neil.

I'll take interests and pass them onto del to be paid for and ordered etc I have no drama doing that.

I'd assume Richard was speaking to the same person.

I agree I know forsales are not for the motorsport section ( I rekon a motorsport for sale section would kick arse!)

but it would suit in there better.

No problem I'll throw the tank on the shelf it's here when your ready, I have just bought 4 more which should have mounting straps.

PMs are never taken to be rude. im always happy to help out with actual knolage or experiance weather or not it shares them same views of others.

but i can talk plenty of crap to when the time calls for it. aparently around the camp fire at new years called for a lot of it. haha.

yea i shal grab a screen for a r32

So we have 4 possibly 5 heads on screens without leaving this thread,,,time for me to ring this man. No better time than tomorrow. I'll post what said on thursday as tomorrow night I have a appointment with a purple and yellow gtr.

Cheers

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...