Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers Amir,,,glad you like my build. She does do great skids as Matty said.

Which brings me to another little issue I have. Before Cheryl went to the Bulladelah hillclimb we changed her gearbox oil,,,only because it was getting old and had seen lots of abuse. So we changed from my usual normal Castrol mineral oil to Royal Purple Max Gear synthetic 75w-90. Now my box never ever crunched or had problems finding reverse,,,she now does. It could well be that my box is getting old,,, but won't it be funny if my problem disappears when I change back to a cheap oil. I'll keep you all posted.

Cheers

Neil.

VMX-M 75/85. GL4 spec is what these boxes like.

Cheers Dale,,,I think that's stuff was what I was running. It's a bit ironic really that a 45 dollar oil out performs a mega dollar one.

Cheers

Neil.

Okay my bad,,,I should have clarified my dis-like for RDA. I actually don't like the way they run their business and until it changes I will never buy their product.

Love

Neil.

Xoxo

Glad to see it is progressing!

I used sard 555 and they worked well and had plenty of duty cycle left. I also used smurf blood in my box and it seamed to work well but was expensive. If the cheaper one works then he'll yer more $ for fuel.

PS I actually worked on my car a few weeks ago I might even get it out towards the end of the year would be good to get them out together.

Okay my bad,,,I should have clarified my dis-like for RDA. I actually don't like the way they run their business and until it changes I will never buy their product.

Love

Neil.

Xoxo

Glad to see it is progressing!

I used sard 555 and they worked well and had plenty of duty cycle left. I also used smurf blood in my box and it seamed to work well but was expensive. If the cheaper one works then he'll yer more $ for fuel.

PS I actually worked on my car a few weeks ago I might even get it out towards the end of the year would be good to get them out together.

Cheers Dale,,,I think that's stuff was what I was running. It's a bit ironic really that a 45 dollar oil out performs a mega dollar one.

Cheers

Neil.

This sounds interesting, after using expensive oils in my Z32 box I might try the Castrol. I remember I used it once in my RB20 box years ago and it went well then.

  • 5 weeks later...

We removed all sorts of wires that I don't use anymore and a whole pile of factory option wiring and plugs. Basically all the aircon,factory boost controller,fog lights, rear wiper/washer controller and it's wiring and the abs wiring that I don't have. Man there was so much un-wanted wiring and earth loops everywhere.

Next wiring job is to remove the dash and finally get rid of all the crap under there and install an on/off switch and starter button.

post-29-0-30844800-1409967582_thumb.jpg

I also removed the 2 vibration dampers from the rear diff cradle and with the ignition switch there's 1.6 kgs gone.

Cheers

Neil.

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Well it's been a while since any updates and some positive things have happened which is very pleasing.

I've been having a problem with boost coming on at 6000 grand and for the life of me I couldn't work out why.

Thanks to Mark at Unigroup the problem is now solved.

Turns out my boost controller was have hissy fits, so I sent it off to the great people at Turbosmart and they fixed it for free even though it was bought off ebay and out of warranty.

Back on the dyno and boost now comes on at about 2800.

I got Mark to lower the power while he was playing, so i now have 235 kilowatts on low boost.

I then decided to lower the rev limiter from 8500 to a more respectful 7300.

I went off and did the Aussie hillclimb champs and a Huntley hillclimb event and Cheryl ran perfectly.

post-29-0-87430600-1417184815_thumb.jpg

Hmmm Grid Girls

post-29-0-08540300-1417184769_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-05590200-1417184791_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-70228900-1417184847_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

I've been meaning to replace my original clutch hose for years but had never got around to it. I had previously bought a stainless replacement hose but Abobob gave me a bango to bango one with a length of heatshielding, so I thought okay it's about time. Off to Earl's for 2 bango bolts and some washers. Turns out the bolt at the master cylinder end is way to long and normally I would have just hacksawed it off but since I bought this little lathe,,, machining it to length was a breeze and no thread cleaning.

post-29-0-16725400-1417222560_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-89063700-1417222986_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-33049400-1417222919_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-65140700-1417222886_thumb.jpg

The lathe has turned out to be a great tool,,,I can now make all sorts of bushes, spacers, cut stuff down and although I haven't tried yet it will cut thread as well.

Cheers

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...