Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

simon the top half was removed when i drilled it pinch.gif. had the manifold welded before you post regarding the splitter and how it would completely disrupt the flow and end up being worse of. the damage was done so i thought id throw it on any way. on the standard turbo it was fine, but not too sure how it would be pushing 20psi. It will probably crack any way as the boys were saying, ill just get the gate welded to rear housing worse comes to worst

Or weld to the turbine housing, much easier and cheaper to fix if something fails. :thumbsup:

Its a pity the new ebay stainless T3 GT30 rears dont bolt up to the Kando's, that way the bend and flange are all similar metals to the housing. Perhaps its worth machining one out a few mm?

im keen on finding out about a t67 on rb25det with 98 pump fuel as here in wait awhile we dont have e85 yet. and i really cannot be bothered ordering and running the risk of running out of fuel somewhere unless simon has a better idea on how to get around this little problem haha

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98...

There was even a guy who posted his results through an auto and low boost, it still make like 270kw....

STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98...

There was even a guy who posted his results through an auto and low boost, it still make like 270kw....

STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

Thanks Scott, clearly i've missed those in my reading. I'll re-attack the posts. :thumbsup:

Just a quick question, ive got my bday coming up soon and my bro' s and sisters asked me what i wanted. I said a turbo lol. There willing to all chuck in some money towards a kando TD06H - 18G internal gate with a 0.5 bar actuator. So do u think this turbo would suit a 4cyl 1.8L engine ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Cover-T3-8cm-V-Band-Housing-TD06H-20G-/290664105318?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43acee4566#ht_2744wt_1396

This one states a 20G wheel but they should be able to change it for an 18G for the same price. What do yous think ?

Are you taking the piss or being serious? :thumbsup: I dont care but you could be right. Perhaps the smaller exhaust pulses of the pissy little 2L six means things are a little more sensitive to exhaust flow and back pressure

I was joking lol

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98...

There was even a guy who posted his results through an auto and low boost, it still make like 270kw....

STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

cheers gtscott i missed it also ill have to wait for e85 over here in wait awhile (wa)

Just a quick question, ive got my bday coming up soon and my bro' s and sisters asked me what i wanted. I said a turbo lol. There willing to all chuck in some money towards a kando TD06H - 18G internal gate with a 0.5 bar actuator. So do u think this turbo would suit a 4cyl 1.8L engine ?

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2744wt_1396

This one states a 20G wheel but they should be able to change it for an 18G for the same price. What do yous think ?

Was that a typo mate? TD06H-18g is overkill.

Had you meant TD05H-18g in an internal gate form with T25 SR20 style housing, then go for it :thumbsup: ive done one of those myself and it was a really nice turbo.

And to the others, no worries. I more or less check this thread daily so I have a fairly good recollection of what weve discussed or what has come up over the time. Its just about my favourite thread lol.

Was that a typo mate? TD06H-18g is overkill.

Had you meant TD05H-18g in an internal gate form with T25 SR20 style housing, then go for it :thumbsup: ive done one of those myself and it was a really nice turbo.

I had my doubts that a TD06 would have been a lil big. Thats why i wanted a 2nd opinion, so u think the below option would be better. It will be on a T3 flange manifold not a T25

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-Internal-Gated-Housing-/270918417854?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6453559929143493497#ht_2730wt_1396

I dont have ebay access at work so Ill need to update this from home.

What motor is it? Is there a reason you are limited to a T3 flange? The T3 IWG housings are highly undesirable.

Whilst the gate looks great mounted there im worried it will crack eventually. Isnt that the weak point where the manifolds crack without cutting a 2 inch hole?

I think you are well on your way to the 300 club. :thumbsup:

maybe even mid 300's now its on wild the sphincter of the universe

lol

i wrote wild t u r k ey and i get sphincter of the universe wtf?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...