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buy a commo.... single wheel skids is obviously your thing. :nyaanyaa:

Or spend the 1k on a LSD and make Jetwreck jealous!

Dropped exhaust in today to get a few more inches- My measuring sucks. Has anyone with a NM35 found if the V35 coupe midepipe fits...? larger pipe, single resonator and CHEAP!

Edited by PN-Mad

Built myself a polycarbonate air box to go around pods, I've got air coming in from inner guard, behind head light + i've kept the factory snorkle coming in the top.

Intake air temp has dropped about 7 deg on average.

As soon as you start driving the 4wd light comes on, looks like it works just fine. I dont know if I would trust this method on the dyno unfortunately. If the pressure ever came back on it would be interesting to say the least...

Have you bled yours yet Craig?

In C34's a solid light (should start flashing after you've pushed the brake pedal 5 times) coming on when you start moving is an error.. be careful as if you've unplugged the plug and have a solid 4WD light (at least in C34's) you're in full 50/50.

In C34's a solid light (should start flashing after you've pushed the brake pedal 5 times) coming on when you start moving is an error.. be careful as if you've unplugged the plug and have a solid 4WD light (at least in C34's) you're in full 50/50.

thats what i thought. tried spinning the wheels up on gravel and didnt kick out with 230kw. i think i may have gotten all foour spinning though.

does the car have to be in ignition, or running when you press the pedal 5 times..?

thats what i thought. tried spinning the wheels up on gravel and didnt kick out with 230kw. i think i may have gotten all foour spinning though.

does the car have to be in ignition, or running when you press the pedal 5 times..?

this doesn't work Aaron...pity too!..........if you want 2WD just unplug the front ABS plug's going to the sensors....easiest way and it work's.ph34r.gif

PS. Your car will still not wheel spin from stop even with 2WD....it may or may not break traction when it comes on boost depending on road surface......It's 2t, auto, 2.5lt, has dumb arse TB restrictions and long diff ratio's!

Edited by Jetwreck

this doesn't work Aaron...pity too!..........if you want 2WD just unplug the front ABS plug's going to the sensors....easiest way and it work's.ph34r.gif

PS. Your car will still not wheel spin from stop even with 2WD....it may or may not break traction when it comes on boost depending on road surface......It's 2t, auto, 2.5lt, has dumb arse TB restrictions and long diff ratio's!

i figured, i guess the 4WD light on means permanent 4WD, just get the f**ker checked lol

is unplugging the ABS safe? as in i kno it will instead skid to a stop, but driving around like this is safe?

pictures on how to do it.. lol just to see.

i figured, i guess the 4WD light on means permanent 4WD, just get the f**ker checked lol

is unplugging the ABS safe? as in i kno it will instead skid to a stop, but driving around like this is safe?

pictures on how to do it.. lol just to see.

lol......once upon a time there was not ABS!thumbsup.gif....ABS was invented for people who don't know how to brake!...I don't think I have used it in an emergency even though I know I have it!.....in fact if you brake on a dirt road you are better off not using ABS as you can stop better without it....if you know how to use a brake that is!nyaanyaa.gif

picture on how to do what....a burnout!....lol!

  • Like 2

lol......once upon a time there was not ABS!thumbsup.gif....ABS was invented for people who don't know how to brake!...I don't think I have used it in an emergency even though I know I have it!.....in fact if you brake on a dirt road you are better off not using ABS as you can stop better without it....if you know how to use a brake that is!nyaanyaa.gif

THIS

I reckon EVERYONE should learn how to drive and have to take the driving test (which should include an "advanced driving" course) in a pre-1985, manual car.

  • Like 1

THIS

I reckon EVERYONE should learn how to drive and have to take the driving test (which should include an "advanced driving" course) in a pre-1985, manual car.

Totally agree....more to the point I think Insurance company's should have a discount scheme for those who choose to do those courses!

  • Like 1

THIS

I reckon EVERYONE should learn how to drive and have to take the driving test (which should include an "advanced driving" course) in a pre-1985, manual car.

I'm alright. I'd take the Datto. :D Stops better repeatedly than most modern cars :whistling:

+11ty to all the braking comments above.

As for 4WD>2WD, car has to be started, it will work if you just turn the key to ON but resets when you start the engine so you have to pump the brake pedal again. If successful the 4WD light should come on and start flashing.

As Jetwreck said above, it's not going to light up standing on it from stationary (hopefully it will when I get my 3L bottom end in :D) but from about 4000rpm with VCT engaged it lights up, 5000rpm without VCT. Sit it on the brake, wheels start turning at about 2500rpm, slowly climbs to 3000rpm where it starts to build some boost, about 3500rpm it's making significant boost and skyrockets to the limiter.. bounce limiter once or twice and click 2nd, release brake, super fun happy strips time!

NOTE: this is from C34 experience, but seeing as how Nissan like to not recreate the wheel so to speak, I'd be interested to see if it is the same for M35 and would be surprised if it's not :)

  • Like 1

These turned up todaybanana.gif

post-61153-0-62886100-1298420592_thumb.jpg

Going to be adding a bit of oil capacity & trying an interesting budget brake upgrade...

Edited by Daleo

Cool. Interested in the reasoning behind going with the oil pan spacer instead of an oil cooler?

It was cheap & simple.

I can't really justify the expense of a cooler setup with an oil thermostat, and that's the only way I'm prepared to do it; so more oil+deeper sump is a win for me right now.

That and it was a box filler for my brake brackets...

Edited by Daleo

It was cheap & simple.

I can't really justify the expense of a cooler setup with an oil thermostat, and that's the only way I'm prepared to do it; so more oil+deeper sump is a win for me right now.

That and it was a box filler for my brake brackets...

These spacers have the fitting for oil temp right? I wanted to get one too but wasn't 100% it would fit. (plus I really should make my own.) :)

These spacers have the fitting for oil temp right? I wanted to get one too but wasn't 100% it would fit. (plus I really should make my own.) :)

This one doesn't, but I'm only a threaded hole away. The one that did have it was another $30.

I'm about to find out if it'll fit, if not I'm sure a V series owner will take it off my hands.

Edited by Daleo

This one doesn't, but I'm only a threaded hole away. The one that did have it was another $30.

I'm about to find out if it'll fit, if not I'm sure a V series owner will take it off my hands.

Probably, as long as you can find a mechanic to fit it for them :P

These turned up todaybanana.gif

post-61153-0-62886100-1298420592_thumb.jpg

Going to be adding a bit of oil capacity & trying an interesting budget brake upgrade...

Waiting with baited breath for the results of the adapters!

Probably, as long as you can find a mechanic to fit it for them :P

So I might be able to make some more money fitting it for them?whistling.gif

Waiting with baited breath for the results of the adapters!

Me too Andy, roll on weekend for the mock up!

Lets see how good my measuring is... Only other issue I can think of, is that the rotor radius may not fit fully inside the caliper.

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