Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is what I'm aiming for, what's your setup?

Autech 260RS

Stock bottom end

Stock FPR

R34 GTR turbos < Terry's old turbos :whistling:

Nismo 555cc injectors,

Walbro fuel pump

Power FC

AVCR

Z32s

Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel

HKS 264 deg cams

HKS cam gears

HKS hard piping kit

Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds

Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe

Fujitsubo Cat back

Gutted cat

N1 oil and water pumps

Greddy oil cooler kit

Turbosmart BOVs

312.5kW at 16.5 psi

272kW at 13 psi

yep, the jaycar kit, works perfectly. Just tapped the speedo wire at the dash and hid the box up behind the hazard light switch. It's been in there a while bu I had to adjust it because I've changed rim/tyre size recently.

Nismo dash is the main reason I had to fix the speedo. A big digital speedo is just annoying when it's wrong!

stagea_dash.jpg

Drunkan, you've fixed the speedo, but the tacho looks like the reading is out of whack too. And what wheels and tyres are you running now? Pics please?

Oil change (my last bottle of GW Sougi s6000), and a yearly inspection of the turbo oil feed banjo. Was enlarged to 1.5mm last year.

Sparkly clean as usual; but 15 minutes well spent.thumbsup.gif

Looks like I'll be changing to the new GW SYN-X 6000 for the next one.

Oil change (my last bottle of GW Sougi s6000), and a yearly inspection of the turbo oil feed banjo. Was enlarged to 1.5mm last year.

Sparkly clean as usual; but 15 minutes well spent.thumbsup.gif

Looks like I'll be changing to the new GW SYN-X 6000 for the next one.

I checked my banjo this week and it was squeaky clean. I didn't enlarge the size of it though.

Edited by slippylotion

I checked my banjo this week and it was squeaky clean. I didn't enlarge the size of it though.

Whether or not to enlarge seems to be a personal thing; to each his own. There's no question; it's cheap insurance to remove & inspect.thumbsup.gif

Autech 260RS

Stock bottom end

Stock FPR

R34 GTR turbos < Terry's old turbos :whistling:

Nismo 555cc injectors,

Walbro fuel pump

Power FC

AVCR

Z32s

Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel

HKS 264 deg cams

HKS cam gears

HKS hard piping kit

Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds

Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe

Fujitsubo Cat back

Gutted cat

N1 oil and water pumps

Greddy oil cooler kit

Turbosmart BOVs

312.5kW at 16.5 psi

272kW at 13 psi

Nice Build, bet its great to drive

I was just wondering how the Power FC goes with the 260RS, Im assuming you used the one specific for the R33 GTR/RB26

Did you have any issues getting it to work, does anything not work as its meant to.

from what i have read it "should" work fine in the stag but i have not asked anyone who has actually done it,

Thanks

Nice Build, bet its great to drive

I was just wondering how the Power FC goes with the 260RS, Im assuming you used the one specific for the R33 GTR/RB26

Did you have any issues getting it to work, does anything not work as its meant to.

from what i have read it "should" work fine in the stag but i have not asked anyone who has actually done it,

Thanks

No problems here

Drunkan, you've fixed the speedo, but the tacho looks like the reading is out of whack too. And what wheels and tyres are you running now? Pics please?

Yeah mate that tacho is wierd....lucky mid 90s LCDs had such crap resolution. It consistently reads 500rpm high, not like the speedo that was a % wrong (ie wronger the faster you go)

I've got R34 GTR rims (finally clearning the brakes properly) and 255/40/18 Federals. No pics it's too wet :P

Also fit Z32 AFM today, total fail. SOmeone has played silly buggers with the Z32 AFM curve on my Powerfc and it's not running properly. I'll probably put the standard AFM back on until I can get a tune.

Nice Build, bet its great to drive

I was just wondering how the Power FC goes with the 260RS, Im assuming you used the one specific for the R33 GTR/RB26

Did you have any issues getting it to work, does anything not work as its meant to.

from what i have read it "should" work fine in the stag but i have not asked anyone who has actually done it,

Thanks

I am running a R32 GTR PowerFC and the car runs fine, an R33 PowerFC would also work.

I Run a R33 PFC (on a R33 RB26) with almost identical setup, minus the inlet and hard piping kit, but I'm still around 20kw short of your power. Guess its time to order those Z32s and the Greddy kit then... thumbsup.gif Good to see whats possible with stock bottom end and turbos...

Found a little cubby hole for a oil catch can today. Hopefully will minimise the amount of oil going out the end of these bloody VQ's. Have to go to pirtek tomorrow and get some real hose- as usual the stuff they give you is massively shit.

Had fun packing that mother full of steel wool!!!!cool.gif

you need one from an RS with hicas, or an ARX. but only vq25det

Not true. Pretty sure Craig said 350Z 5MT rear diff, but I'd have to check.

I think the VQ25DD front diff is the good one though, haven't double checked yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...