Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Matt, car looks outstanding :yes:

You still keeping the FP3076 on ?

Thanks mate.

Long term, not likely... Turbo is great but i want to run more power with less boost and stress on the engine at some stage...

  • Like 2

Thanks mate.

Long term, not likely... Turbo is great but i want to run more power with less boost and stress on the engine at some stage...

RB30 bottom end with a precision turbo or now its track only do you think you could get more from a 2J conversion ?

GTX3576 in twin scroll, twin gates, twin screamers (out of the bonnet) on a freshened up RB25DET NEO (maybe RB30DET NEO?) would be a response king and make 400kW+ easily.

Although, if RB30DET a GTX3582R would be my pick in twin scroll, twin blah blah blah :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...
5 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

Hey Matt,

 

Im just curious what wheel alignment settings you use?

 

Just going in for one on Saturday :)

 

Will send you a PM mate!

Been a while since i have been on here.... Most updates have been on Facebook :D

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

A lot has happened over the past 12mths... STILL the same stock NEO from factory, STILL the factory headgasket...

The engine is getting a bit tired but it is not stopping us from setting PB's and having fun!

For more info check out our Facebook Page - https://www.facebook.com/Woottenracing/

Here is our last track day at Wakefield Park, we are finally in the 63's and heading in the right direction for a 62 hopefully later in the year.

 

  • Like 5
1 minute ago, timmy_89 said:

Hahahahaha.

 

And I thought I was shit at providing updates in my build thread :P

Lol... Slow, just like my lap times!

1 minute ago, Anfanee said:

When the motor does finally pack it in, what are you thinking?

Slap another one in and keep thrashing i hope! Trying to keep the engine cost down so i can do as many events as possible!

4 minutes ago, Anfanee said:

When the motor does finally pack it in, what are you thinking?

 

1 minute ago, Anfanee said:

Rb30? can still do it on the cheap.

Heaps of people have been telling me that... But then ill have to change turbo setups and minor stuff but it all adds up! Will decide soon as the old engine is getting tired...

Yeah that is true. 

I'm still amazed that this motor is still going, hats off to your mechanics and tuners for the maintenance schedule on that. Even to not have done a HG is amazing. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Heaps of people have been telling me that... But then ill have to change turbo setups and minor stuff but it all adds up! Will decide soon as the old engine is getting tired...

Damn, yours is still alive.. mine went bang, took out the turbo too LOL

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...