Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will you be working at "The House of Stagea" tomorow? Might see if I can nip down for a perve...:whistling:

yup....he will be there...I have a couple of small projects on the run I want to finish and I'm sure his Aric wants to bolt all his bits back on.

yup....he will be there...I have a couple of small projects on the run I want to finish and I'm sure his Aric wants to bolt all his bits back on.

Fairy Muff... I'll give you a bell tomorrow.:thumbsup:

Its a great idea Dale, but there is stuff all room there. I'm running about 4 or 5 hoses in the area already.

What I really need to know is does it matter being before or after the AFM?

Ideally you want the BOV as close to the throttle body as possible and certainly between the afm and the throttle body.

The pulses reversing through the AFM would almost certainly cause issues.

1327738925[/url]' post='6207971']

Ideally you want the BOV as close to the throttle body as possible and certainly between the afm and the throttle body.

The pulses reversing through the AFM would almost certainly cause issues.

Yeah, that's the conventional thinking. Thing is, I has no bov now, and it doesn't seem to suffer any ill effects other than the comp surge. Nil afm issues. The afm will only read in one direction.

That's why I'm a bit puzzled.

because your afm is in the cooler pipe you can actually have an atmo bov if you wanted to, so long as its on the pressureised side of the Turbo (duh) and pre afm

At this position the afm hasn't metered the air yet so loosing it to atmo doesn't matter

You could also put a recirc bov here, or after the afm, but a recirc bov is probably best after the afm to prevent reversion and air going backwards through the afm on closed throttle

Yeah, that's the conventional thinking. Thing is, I has no bov now, and it doesn't seem to suffer any ill effects other than the comp surge. Nil afm issues. The afm will only read in one direction.

That's why I'm a bit puzzled.

So was there a question about where to locate it or are you happy with how the car runs? The reason you want it close the throttle is to release the pressure as early as possible to shorten the pressure wave. There are lots of cars that have the BOV located somewhere further away and it works but it is not ideal. Conventional thinking is there for a reason.

Last I checked pulses of air moving across the afm element, changes the afm voltage regardless of direction.

So was there a question about where to locate it or are you happy with how the car runs? The reason you want it close the throttle is to release the pressure as early as possible to shorten the pressure wave. There are lots of cars that have the BOV located somewhere further away and it works but it is not ideal. Conventional thinking is there for a reason.

Last I checked pulses of air moving across the afm element, changes the afm voltage regardless of direction.

Conventional thinking doesn't have the AFM 300mm from the TB and the intake about 1800mm from that. The afm is not designed to pick up air travelling in the opposite direction, it would be very much shielded from the path of the air reversed, thats what I figure when I look at the thing. At the moment I can't say there is any ill effects in driveability because of the air backing up, just the comp flutter, which is actually a little milder that what I initially thought.

If it was going to be easy, I'd put it before the AFM, problem is I have very little space there anymore.

Scotty, I do care about the noise. In Sydney run a external BOV and your classed as full hektic- bend over and get ready for the po po.... Funny thing is with the flutter, they would think its a BOV anyway.

Edited by PN-Mad

6780356387_788a58afbe.jpg

Cam, Below is what I had to do to the Fnt bar. nothing drastic - just one cl ip to go, and a bit of sanding to clear the top cooler pipe.

6780354307_91071caa03.jpg

6780352443_32e2dc6f2f.jpg

6780350463_d012e32a03.jpg

All done!

I'll get some underneath pics, just have to get it up the ramps!

Conventional thinking doesn't have the AFM 300mm from the TB and the intake about 1800mm from that.

Scotty, I do care about the noise. In Sydney run a external BOV and your classed as full hektic- bend over and get ready for the po po.... Funny thing is with the flutter, they would think its a BOV anyway.

Looks really neat Alex. Well done to all involved thus far.

What does HKS suggest re BOV, if anything? Surely they gave detailed engineering info, like how they acheived their design criteria for a truly bolt-on/no mods necessary kit such as yours, lol.

And you don't strike me as the fully hektic type that goes around looking for trouble. I'm sure there's a solution somewhere...

Cam, Below is what I had to do to the Fnt bar. nothing drastic - just one cl ip to go, and a bit of sanding to clear the top cooler pipe.

6780354307_91071caa03.jpg

6780352443_32e2dc6f2f.jpg

Thanks Alex. I was wondering how far the grill came back to the intercooler recently actually.

Oh, and nice little shroud/box for the pod, any point to the stock air funnel now though? are you going to route air from it to the pod?

No point really to the duct. Its not in there now. The pod gets heaps of fresh air from below, through the grill, and up near the wheel arch.

The shroud? Well, thats a custom M35 Garage HKS pro dealer part. ph34r.gif

Craig has taken to writing HKS on various things on my car now. I have to say the bracket he made up for the trans cooler is a work of art.

Edited by PN-Mad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
    • Hi, I need same this wing nismo , Does anyone have one for sale?  if any one have can contact me  00966546888343
    • Nah, lots of insurance repairs on V36 and V37 for pedestrians deployments. Reasons ranging from possums, to extremely severe potholes have deployed them. However, paying for the full repair can still be upto $5k AU some people have noted!
    • Hi, i got 1998 r34 4 door auto abs model and its manual converted with bigbox when i bought it . I successfully find the neutral and reverse light wire but can’t find the speed signal wires for speedo drive. I know its grey plug but on my loom no grey plug with 2 wires . I opened the loom upto where it getting branch with other wire, i’m amazed they is no wire. So need help how to fix the speedometer problem. I search on google it says some r34 model measure speed from diff sensor. Is it right? I talk to a wrecker he say no this isn’t right, i’m kinda stuck. Please help
×
×
  • Create New...