Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no the V700 and V70A are different types/patterns of semi slicks. But he was asking about slicks - i assume the V700 was a typo - the Kumho slick is S700. Which are obviously a different tyre from either of the semis.

I always thought that, but then when i got mine, i have both of those markings on my tyre! I have seen the same on lots of others running the same tyre, and here is just a random photo from the net showing both markings, the v700 and v70a on the one tyre...

Are there other ones that i dont know about? i know theres the v710 on tire rack in USA, but that looks totally different

164203d1302506419-feeler-rota-torque-w-k

confusing branding by Kumho. "Ecsta V700" = V70A model. You can see the V70A on the sidewall as well. "VictoRacer V700" = V700 model.

http://www.kumho.com.au/blog/products/ecsta-v70a/

ECSTA-V70A-260x290.jpg

http://www.kumho.com.au/blog/products/victoracer-v700/

VICTORACER-V700-copy-260x290.jpg

0103gmhtp_roadrace03_zoom.jpg

Edited by hrd-hr30

Yeah 30 hot is spot on although I think I'm running plenty more camber than you, I'm up to around 4deg now.

Thinking about giving the Kumhos a crack next, I've got the 123S down into the 63's and the A050 a mid 61.

Have a set of Ikeya Formula front LCA's to also fit so hopefully the extra track that gives will help times a little because GTR understeer is a bitch

Nah I am pretty close to your camber setting - just that Wanneroo likes loads of it, moreso than elsewhere & I am not intending on running different wheel alignments for different tracks.

Guessing your spring rates are harder than mine, however.

I've run both under my car. The mediums are too soft for a 20min race on a hot day.

I've actually just bought another set of the mediums for my car for super sprints etc, I've found them good for the price. One trick is they work best at unusually high pressures, somewhere between 40 and 44.

Like Harry I saw a lot of failures under heavy cars, in particular the commodores running 18s with 35 profile, a few let go in turn 1 at Eastern Creek. I never had a problem with 17s and 40 profile.

If it was me, I'd give them a run, but like I said some people have had trouble in the past. Have a chat to John at Fsport and see what he suggests to avoid issues, I imagine he will say don't run pressures too low and don't run too much camber.

Another option at a good price is the Federal FZ201, I would have gone them but I was in a bit of a rush to get something for this weekend. You can get them through the club I think....dry performance was good and the price was excellent.

Although not true semi-slicks, I will be swapping my 265/35/18 AD08's for a set of 295/30/18 AD08R's.

I haven't used the AD08R's, but apparently it is supposed to be a lot better then the older compound??? Anyone tried them?

Edited by Tonba

Although not true semi-slicks, I will be swapping my 265/35/18 AD08's for a set of 295/30/18 AD08R's.

I haven't used the AD08R's, but apparently it is supposed to be a lot better then the older compound??? Anyone tried them?

I've got the AD08s in 265/35/18 and think they are amazing, better then the RS-3s I have and if they Rs are better again that is what I'll be getting next, would mind keepingg us informed of how they go

I have a set of 265/45/18 Hankook Z221s in 265/35/18 I need to get rims for and can't decide if I get 9.5 or 10.5 ( the rims I want only come in either of those ) if any has experience with this size of these what size rims do you have them on what size do you think they should be on

Which car? You should be putting 285 on a 10.5" mate, because race car ;).

Me ?, R34 GTR, I got the Z221s cheap ( $1500 for the set ) and its a street car first that goes to the track for some happy fun time power sliding :D

That's why is was considering 10.5 so I can go to 285s later if need be, the 4WD means good 265s should be plenty for what I do with it

What's funny for me is the 265/35/18 Z221s are wider then the 275/35/19 Z222s I have

My opinion: Fit the widest tyre possible hehehe. I think some people had issues with 285 rubbing? Or were they 295?

From:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/156842-best-rim-and-tyre-width-for-circuit-gt-r/#entry2915649

"Having said that I'm pretty sure giant runs 265's on his R34 rims. But the general consesus down here is that stretching a tyre will be faster than sticking a fatter tyre on the same rim. I'm certainly going to be running the 245's on my 9.5's from now on rather than the 265's."

And the Tyrerack website says "As a general rule, Tire Rack recommends mounting Track & Competition DOT tires on the widest rim widths approved by the tire manufacturer (up to the widest permitted by the competition class rules).”

So, what i take away from that is "fit the widest tyre that will fit in the wheel well, on the widest rim that the manufacturer approves for that size tyre", but i have no first hand experience.

...."Having said that I'm pretty sure giant runs 265's on his R34 rims. But the general consesus down here is that stretching a tyre will be faster than sticking a fatter tyre on the same rim....

I know that's not you being quoted mate, but it is not correct. No way is the smallest tyre for a given rim width going to give better grip than the widest tyre for that rim. Every racing category runs the widest tyres possible on the rim width for grip.

  • Like 1

So Duncan what do you think about the comments in that thread, eg "Last year I know Scotsman from here dropped 1s on his lap time at Sandown by simply going from 265's on a 9" rim (R34 GTR rims) to 245's and consequently set the fastest time I know of for a GT-R with stock turbo's / engine around that track."

I dont know what to think, but for me the the smaller tyre theory is plausible if it you consider how the tyre cross section could deform and therefore change the contact patch on the tarmac. Then i guess it comes down to weight of car+cornering gs vs sidewall strength. However, plausible doesn't mean its true...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
×
×
  • Create New...