Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So initial word back from GCG is that the core needs to be replaced in the HKS, housing seems to be ok

We'll get a phone call sometime this week to go pick it up

In the mean time, we went a bit crazy on a recent order with HiOctane for the 34......

Cq4WU1m.jpg

So we have got:

Haltech ECU

Tomei Type-B Pon Cams

Tomei Cam Gears

Walbro in-tank fuel pump

850cc injectors and FPR

Upgrades gears for the oil pump

All this will go in after the track day in September, I want to get used to the new clutch first before putting more power in the car

We'll also be putting in a Gates timing belt and a new water pump while we are in there.

Also planing to get a Plazmaman plenum, throttle body and Billet fuel rail, paint the rocker covers and clean up the bay a bit

BRB while I start on my Mi Goreng diet lol

  • Like 3

I'm not too fussed on the wait for the extra power but my mates and mechanic have been pushing me to do the work now and not wait until after track day.

I could do it all now and it might be ready by track day (all depends on my tuner) but I will probably miss the 32 GTR 25th anniversary day cruise/lunch next month which I really want to take the 34 to

Having no boost for a month is a killer lol, it's an addiction. The longest I've gone without the car previously has been 2 weeks so this is a real test for me, it's like giving up smoking lol

I am interested in seeing how much power I will get out of her once everything is in and the HKS finally pushed its limits (only running at 50% at the moment)

Looks like a fun combination haha. My car should be ready in September too, maybe we should organise a cruise somewhere...

Nice, what are you getting done?

I'll be up for a cruise up until track day late September, need to rack up the k's on the new clutch, come October she'll most likely be off the road again for the work.

Nice, what are you getting done?

I'll be up for a cruise up until track day late September, need to rack up the k's on the new clutch, come October she'll most likely be off the road again for the work.

Same as yours but instead of cams I'm chucking on an SS2 turbo. Should be pretty quick once tuned. Hoping for 300 at the wheels

So initial word back from GCG is that the core needs to be replaced in the HKS, housing seems to be ok

We'll get a phone call sometime this week to go pick it up

In the mean time, we went a bit crazy on a recent order with HiOctane for the 34......

Cq4WU1m.jpg

So we have got:

Haltech ECU

Tomei Type-B Pon Cams

Tomei Cam Gears

Walbro in-tank fuel pump

850cc injectors and FPR

Upgrades gears for the oil pump

All this will go in after the track day in September, I want to get used to the new clutch first before putting more power in the car

We'll also be putting in a Gates timing belt and a new water pump while we are in there.

Also planing to get a Plazmaman plenum, throttle body and Billet fuel rail, paint the rocker covers and clean up the bay a bit

BRB while I start on my Mi Goreng diet lol

You only need the one cam gear man... And also why the upgrade for the oil pump? Mine has held up so far with the abuse...

Might look into head studs and cam springs if you want to run bigger boost, these can be done on the car without lifting the head :yes:

Organise your entry for the track day in September hahaha

I might do. It'll be pretty rubbish as it's on standard shocks though haha. Also I have no licence or helmet or gear or fire extinguisher. I might aim for the next one hahaha

I might do. It'll be pretty rubbish as it's on standard shocks though haha. Also I have no licence or helmet or gear or fire extinguisher. I might aim for the next one hahaha

I have spare helmet and extinguisher you can borrow

Licence is easy to get $50

I have spare helmet and extinguisher you can borrow

Licence is easy to get $50

This is about as tempting as a kebab after a big night on the piss. I'll see how the build and tune goes with Paul. Might just unplug the boost controller and run it as rich as a Saudi prince if it's too quick for the suspension

You only need the one cam gear man... And also why the upgrade for the oil pump? Mine has held up so far with the abuse...

If I'm going to upgrade 1 might as well do both.

I'd rather play it safe with the oil pump, minimize the chance of failure in the future

Might look into head studs and cam springs if you want to run bigger boost, these can be done on the car without lifting the head :yes:

Might be an idea. What's the limit on boost with stock studs and springs?

If I'm going to upgrade 1 might as well do both.

I'd rather play it safe with the oil pump, minimize the chance of failure in the future

Might be an idea. What's the limit on boost with stock studs and springs?

Stock studs held up OK when i was running 24psi but eventually i would have done a headgasket... I would say 20psi on stock springs and studs to be safe as long as you have a good tuner... Others might have different opinions?

Most engines start having issues once they have been messed with (in regards to bearings and bottom ends and stuff) best leave it the way it came from Nissan and thrash... I thought mine may have proven that to ya by now :P

  • Like 1

Stock studs held up OK when i was running 24psi but eventually i would have done a headgasket... I would say 20psi on stock springs and studs to be safe as long as you have a good tuner... Others might have different opinions?

Most engines start having issues once they have been messed with (in regards to bearings and bottom ends and stuff) best leave it the way it came from Nissan and thrash... I thought mine may have proven that to ya by now :P

Sounds good seeing as my MAP sensor will only let me run 21psi haha. I hope I land in a pit of money soon so I can come on the track day

If I'm going to upgrade 1 might as well do both.

I'd rather play it safe with the oil pump, minimize the chance of failure in the future

if you use the intake cam gear you are going to lose your VCT as its a single unit and cannot be mated to the adjustable cam because well thats sorta what VCT is!.

go take it back and get them $$ back!

if not you could always sell it to someone else and they can flip it around and use as an exh gear.

  • 2 weeks later...

The new clutch feels good, it will take a a little while to get used to it. Different friction point and it's a little heavier than my old one

Time to bed it in and get ready for track day next month :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...