Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah that is not what those turbos would be comparable to, they are much larger compressors than -5s and higher flowing for their size so while the lag may not be as bad as the increased size might suggest, it will still be quite noticeably laggier but they will also punch seriously.

Definitely a big single is the way to go for that requirement, there isn't really anything in the modern billet brigade to fit that small a requirement. There are 55mm HTA compressors but not sure that they are intended for GT28 cores and their flow is likely to be more like -9ish and better response if they could be used so too far the other way.

The EFRs start at 62mm and likely to end up -5ish in spool

I'm gonna be a smartass here and say twins are so back in the mid 90's like the old blitz, top secret, greddy, endless, HKS ect. Ect. Drag gtrs with the big twin GT3040's GT3037's GT2835's trust twin t67's and the twin blitz's and Apexi's. Also yes yes yes I realize these are not factory replacements lol but still twins with messy piping and what not are just old school to me haha. I do realize -5's -7'd -9's -10's have there place for a stealth police friendly look. I guess I'm just a whore for mid to mid/large size singles. :) I think singles have better drivability feeling and other reasons listed in other threads. Feel free to flame me twin lovers as I've had a few to many beverages tonight for the B/day.and thought I'd try to stir a couple members up. Lol excuse the spelling mistakes as I can hardly see the phone letters haha.

Cheers Josh

Agreed with above. Twins still carry an Oooo factor, but are long outdated nowadays.. I think it has been said elsewhere on the forum that the twin EFR's didn't live up to expectations? Perhaps that was a revised version, I am guessing now.

Either way, I agree twins were a back in the day thing. With the more recent advancements the concept is becoming redundant.. We can now squeeze big power from turbos with ultra wide powerbands, which defeats the purpose of twins IMHO.

Just my 2c

P.S. Happy B'day Josh lol

They involve more complexity than a single turbo but to make a direct comparison to low mount twins you need the big single to have an integral waste gate too . With two of everything you get two integral wastegates and the turbos housings can remain reasonably compact . With current technology you could probably use quite compact turbos on an RB26 if 209 Kw was the ask .

In favor of singles they're less complex but show me a twin scroll twin integral wastegate turbo and a cast manifold to suit . Then make it compact enough to drop the body shell over on the production line .

The answer in a current Skyline is to use a 3.5 or 3.7 litre V6 and if that isn't enough hang compact hair dryers off each bank . I'm not to sure how you go trying to shoehorn a huge single into a current GTR and expect to register it .

The downfall of the GTR/RB26 was lack of cubes pulling too many kilos in road form . Fine for a stripped out racer driven flat footed mostly but it's never the same in a luxed out emissions and noise legal road offering . Most homologation based road cars are like this , or I should say were like this because there effectively is no production based tarmac racing any more . The V8 Super Farts were a huge joke and nothing remotely like what you can buy new .

A .

  • 2 weeks later...

I think that clip is confirmation that the twin HTAs are actually an awesome thing, especially if you are looking for an upgrade or alternative to GTRS/-10s. Looking forward to seeing how it goes on the dyno

the GT2868HTAs for GTR work out to $3071 plus postage ATM for two

you gonna step up from the -5s ?

Nah man. So much money when you factor in tunes, turbos, time to change them over. Considering I haven't run the car at full noise yet, CBF. Doesn't stop me from wondering how much better it would be though :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...