Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ingenuous move, working out how to make some bulletproof idea used by another manufacturer work in this engine range. It's about time there was a workable solution to changing oil pressure relief springs was figured out too, without needing to drop the sump.

Not everyone needs an expensive dry sump setup, and the difficulties that go with packaging it into the car.

Hopefully it's a good solution in practice, and he's able to get the stuff priced so it's affordable

And whats wrong with the tomei pumps to need this?

They are as good as it gets IMHO without going through all this fuss.

Im not putting up my hand to the person to test one....will watch this with interest though.

We may just have a better option the Tomei pump ;)

It will be interesting to see how long they last. The drive idea seems decent as i was led to believe its normally the pump drive gear chattering around on the crank that causes it to crack and fail. This splined drive would surely allow the pump drive gear to be stronger and at worst last longer than the current options

I bet they wont be cheap though

i am getting a couple of these bad boys to see how they sell in Australia.

if anyone is interested send me a PM.

here is more pictures of progress. they will be ready very soon.

It actually uses the OEM toyota gears. its going to be the strongest RB pump available.

post-1240-0-35520400-1387284369_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-66978300-1387284372_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-97018800-1387284376_thumb.jpg

so the Toyota gear is interference fit but no grub screws like the crank collars?

Looks pretty good, I'm not real sure what the hold up with the Nitto version is? there was alot of talk about it a while ago. Didn't think it was that hard to make a gear instead of a crank collar and adapt the oil pump gears to suit? But perhaps it had to be tested fully before putting into production

Hi guys. Yes we have been working on this for quite some time now with very different real world results to the simplistic nature one would think of a project like this. Difference here is that we are actually doing the field testing (which is not easy on proper big HP RB engines with 2-step etc) and not releasing our product into the market without this.

The fine spline drive has shown many issues on an RB engine in areas that would normally not be thought of and has also really accentuated the differences between RB and 2JZ crankshaft properties and design.

First of all a significant issue stems from the process of an engine block being tunnel bored to correct the alignment of the main journal tunnel which can lead to the crankshaft sitting several thou higher than its original position in the engine block (which believe it or not can also vary block to block from the factory). The oil pump stays in the same position when bolted to the block and leads to the upper section of the spline being driven harder and loads the gear set in an ununiformed manner. There is not an acceptable clearance for an involute spline that will properly allow for this and also combine it with the further issues below. Obviously this is detrimental to the durability of an oil pump.

Second to this is the harsher harmonics that are found in an RB crankshaft as compared to a 2JZ item stemming a lot from the smaller journal overlap and also on a factory RB crankshaft from the 8 counter weight design. This is also further pronounced on a stroker crankshaft and when combined with the much smaller and weaker snout of an RB crankshaft this can lead to further clearance issues and gear loading.

I can't comment on how all this would come into play with the cheap sintered steel factory 2JZ gears but I can say that all this did not end overly well with our expensive nitride and treated EN Series billet steel gears in both operation & wear patterns and housing galling conditions. This is all just some information for you guys in regards to where we are at with this upgrade that we have been working hard on for so long now and is no disrespect to the gentleman designing the new pump listed.

We have a new design that is currently undergoing testing that will ensure a much higher level of drive durability without worry from the above conditions but, as always with our products, won't be released until Nitto is confident that it replicates what will suit all potential variations of RB engine builds without fault. Our track record with the current design pump is still excellent but upgrades are always good! Hopeful release date will be within the first quarter of next year but this, as always, will be subject to testing results.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...