Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for all the replies !!

I think i might just get a cheap car first then, work on a better car down the track, Im looking at a nissan pulsar for $500 mate owns it seems like a perfect car to learn in, Opinions? Its a manual, going to get more information soon.

Swift GTI. Too bad they're flimsy and most have been trashed or worn out. Lots of fun for very little cash otherwise.

Hard to recommend the R31 I had one for a couple of years and found that all the Australian made bits on them are awful, the diff especially. The whine will send you deaf on the freeway. Other crappy bits are the seats (frames break), door trims (peel apart) and the steering racks (love to leak fluid). They are easy to fix though and the engines will go forever...

R31 Skyline/Pintara wagon.

Cheap, reliable and you can r00t in the back...or so I've been told...

You can also carry half your wardrobe and a heap of other shit you need when you inevitably end up living out of it days on end when you're out getting pissed with your mates.

  • Like 1

Thanks for all the replies !!

I think i might just get a cheap car first then, work on a better car down the track, Im looking at a nissan pulsar for $500 mate owns it seems like a perfect car to learn in, Opinions? Its a manual, going to get more information soon.

Manual is a win. autos are pretty terrible. anymore details on the car?

do a comp test, the 1.6 and 1.8L motors in the N16 like to blow head gaskets

wont get N16 for $500, and I'd say to steer clear anyway. too many differences between models. ie. hatch is a totally different car to sedan, S1 is a different ballpark to S2, very few interchangeable parts and the 1.6 and 1.8 are completely different engines.

Bit of a mess really.

Whatever your budget is go buy the best corolla you can afford. About an 05 model should do

Auto frees up a hand for eating drinking, fingering or pushing the horn

  • Like 2

Agree with most others, but I'll add to buy something you won't be tempted to modify in any way, like a Camry. Reliable, big enough to cart stuff around in, dull as ditchwater.You may grit your teeth every time you drive it and cop some flack from (idiot) mates but wgaf, you'll have freedom of mobility and can save money you would have wasted on pointless mods towards something decent. And as Alex said, you won't care so much when you gutter the wheels and round off the bumper corners.

I really think corollas and camry are overpriced because people think they are well taken care of and rarely driven. Old people or not, you cant confidently say that about any car on the market.

While I think the older corollas are ok (other than toyota retarded gear ratios), there are quite a few around with rolled-back kms.

My first car was a S3 R31 skyline.

Was an awsome car to learn in, cost me $3000 (10 years ago) less then $1000 to fully insure.

Started as auto but converted to manual.easy to modyfy and is p-plate friendly.

Is also RWD which personaly is better to learn in then a FWD.

You can pic one up these days for around $1000 with mods.

Pulsars are a win!!

My first car was an N15 SSS, I've had it for over 7 years now, have put it through it's paces, and has never failed me!! It's still running with 255k on the clock and has never missed a beat..

I wouldn't necessarily go for a standard pulsar though (with a 1.8L engine or less).. Seen too many with problems!! The little extra money for a SSS with the SR20 in it goes a long way!!

Cheap to fill - $60 for a full tank of Premium; cheap to maintain; and cheap on insurance!! PLUS it's a NISSAN, so it's bulletproof by default ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...