Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just switched over today. Very happy.

2000 BNR34 GT-R V-Spec II

Previously insured with Lumley SV. (Regular daily driven policy)

Premium: $1812

Excess: $500

Agreed Value: $53,000

Now with NRMA VVC. (Restricted Use policy)

Premium: $952

Excess: $300

Agreed Value: $65,000

Although hard to compare as they are two different usage policies im still happy. No problems with the usual mods: exhaust, wheels, suspension, intake and audio system.

Lumley were not prepared to increase the agreed value so it was an easy choice considering the vehicle does not do daily duties anymore anyways.

Edited by Hakosuka22
  • Like 4

swapped over to them too, $5k agreed value above what anyone else would offer, $40 per month $300 excess choice of repairer, glass cover. and that's with no loyalty discount so very happy also.

  • Like 1

point them to car sales to get the mean/ average sale value for R32gtrs, its currently well over 30k.

give them the explanation of the USA market opening to justify it, they listened to me and did it. I asked for $35 and they gave me 30 as mines a stock 1989

  • Like 1

The guy on the call was rather understanding, he was looking at carsales himself noting the average around 30k.

I asked for 40k hoping to settle around 35 ideally or 30 at the minimum...

Mines pretty standard too with a few bolt ons and exterior bits and bobs

Hey guys, I thought you may find this cool........

I rang NRMA today and asked what can be done to comprehensively insure my Aussie Delivered R32 GT-R for the GT-R festival in 8 days time.

It is currently insured with them but on "laid up cover," meaning fire and theft cover only at home as the car is not registered.

They granted me comprehensive cover for "special occasions" providing I obtained an unregistered vehicle permit.

I got the permit from the RMS yesterday for $23.00.

I'm now all set for the festival. Happy days! Driving an R32 GT-R legally with no number plates for 50kms round trip may be interesting!

Note the comments in the special conditions section attached.

Bob.

post-78207-0-94514200-1463732275_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

That's awesome. But how the hell did you convince the rms to grant you a permit to travel to a car show?

No convincing required, it's a legal option available in all states.

Click on Unregistered Vehicle Permit (UVP)

http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/unregistered.html#UnregisteredVehiclePermit(UVP)

Bob.

Hey guys, I thought you may find this cool........

I rang NRMA today and asked what can be done to comprehensively insure my Aussie Delivered R32 GT-R for the GT-R festival in 8 days time.

It is currently insured with them but on "laid up cover," meaning fire and theft cover only at home as the car is not registered.

They granted me comprehensive cover for "special occasions" providing I obtained an unregistered vehicle permit.

I got the permit from the RMS yesterday for $23.00.

I'm now all set for the festival. Happy days! Driving an R32 GT-R legally with no number plates for 50kms round trip may be interesting!

Note the comments in the special conditions section attached.

Bob.

Fascinating!

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

NRMA VVC 

...now has a new Sum Insured ceiling limit.

$500,000 (up from  $150,000).

* still maximum 10x per month usage

* still needs to be secure

* still needs to be a minimum of 15yrs old.

  • Like 2

My car is currently insured full comprehensive through nrma.

33 gtst and the best they will do is $3500

My rims/tyres are worth more. If I'm in an accident I'm screwed

Considering going over to the vvc atleast I might get what the cars worth

54 minutes ago, CaptainFresh said:

My car is currently insured full comprehensive through nrma.

33 gtst and the best they will do is $3500

My rims/tyres are worth more. If I'm in an accident I'm screwed

Considering going over to the vvc atleast I might get what the cars worth

Normal NRMA is not the section you go to?

NRMA Classic and vintage mob, but they are not for your daily drive car, have a look on Google

Ive driven my car a total of 400kms in 2 months. I drove to sydeny from newcastle last weekend. Which was 250kms. Otherwise i would have driven 150ks in 2 months.... safe to say its not daily driven. Not even a weekend car at this point. I occasionly drive to the shops and back just to give it a run..

Unsure what you mean otherwise... im just stating if you go through the typical full comprehensive at nrma with a gtst your going to be screwed in an accident etc

As my car is 21years old, not daily driven etc it qualifies for vintage and classic insurance. Where i will get closer to what the car is actually worth.

3 hours ago, Terry_GT-R34 said:

Really cheap cars are better off insured for "fire and theft..."

Fire and theft is a croc of shit... they cover max $10k, then you minus excess, admin, other bs costs.. you end up with a few grand. Also means premiums will be about $600...

I heard vintage insurance is much better, in terms of cover and cost. My car literally does 2~3000 kms per year, the most it ever travels is when it goes to Wakefield Park and back home. 1x tank of E85 usually lasts me about 1 month, most of it wasted on starting it up revving it a bit in the backyard and turning it off (yes not good for oil but gets replaced every 2nd track day)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...